You don't like what we tell you anyway, so why does it matter?
The idea behind a fuse is to prevent fires. So, if a AC cord passes into a box, you usually fuse the AC. Fusing is wierd because you have a transformer. This usually means a time delay or SB fuse is used.
If you use Pac=Pdc(max); then figuring out I on the input side, double it and make it a Slow blow fuse and your probably good. e.g. (0.1)(100 VAC) = (5)(2 A); Wrong numbers, but you get the idea. 100 VAC is use in Japan. Your regulator won't put out 2A. So, a 1/4 A SB fuse should be fine in this case.
If you decide on a metal case, then you would want to electrically insulate the regulator from the case, but have good thermal contact. Sil Pads, Mica washers or Kapton washers are used. Sil pads don't need heat sink goop. (A very fine layer). The white stuff gets everywhere.
We don't like the 330 ohm resistor. The small capacitors near the regulator. The datasheet suggests the types. Usually one is ceramic because of it's high frequency abilities. Sometimes they are parallel to get the best of both worlds.
The two protection diodes definitely need to be added if this is stand-alone.
You have choices for the output connectors. Pilot lamp? A power switch on the DC side, so power cuts instantly. An analog voltmeter or even an analog ammeter All of these are possibilities.
Movements were popular at one time, so you could take a 50 uA meter movement and make a voltmeter or current meter of your choice. These may have appreciable series resistances, so that has to be considered if used as an ammeter.
It COULD be worthwhile to have a way to have fixed outputs such as 5V.
A power supply is a good project. In doing it, you will realize that the case, power supply, switches, cords, jacks and real estate cost the most.
The following is basically an aside. Some of the things I have and why I have them.
There's a really nice supply, **broken link removed** which I have delegated to a portable AM radio. It's basically a linear regulator with a multiple tapped secondary, It's designed to replace batteries.
When you combine it with a cord with Adapt-a-plugs, it's not bad, but it has a specific purpose.
This **broken link removed** is a cool supply too.
I have a couple designed as a "quick back-up" for wall warts that break. Using 5.5/2.1 and 5.5./2.5 input plugs to an adapt-a-jack; I can "Make nearly what I need quickly. Polarity reversal is take apart and re-wire or switch thee adapt-a-plug.
for all of my devices, I pretty much have labled the wall adapters:
What it goes to.
Voltage current: 5V 1A C+ (for center positive)
Connector: e.g. 5.5mm/2.5mm
Then there is also flag labeled to the same effect. The AC side may be labeled as well.
The lowest voltage has been 5 V and the highest 17 V for my devices. 5 and 12 are common. I do happen to have a few odd ones like 9 V and 6V. I do have a 24 VDC supply that I could rig up if needed to get 17 V.
The 5.5/2.1 and 5.5/2.5 coax plugs are pretty common for inputs, so by incorporating both, I double my chances. If the adapter is bad, but not the cord, , you can always cut the output cord and use it.