Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.
Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.
I finally got around to wiring up a fix. I went with an op-amp delay circuit, since I was already using two op-amps (one for each sensor). I changed out the dual op-amp for a quad and am able to adjust it anywhere from instant to 20 seconds. The cool thing about using this circuit is that the...
The mailbox is sealed when the door is closed. so no sunlight is getting in. The original two sensors are epoxied to the inside top of the mailbox, along with the wiring that runs along the top. Both sensors have the emitter and the photo-transistor in each, so everything is on the ceiling and...
Thank you. That was what I was thinking with the parts I initially used. I figured that simple was better and it worked great all Winter & Spring. I wasn't thinking about heat making the IR sensor false. I do have some IR receivers on-hand, but that means I'll have to junk the mailbox and...
I put together a little logic circuit that tells me when we have mail in our mailbox and it has been working pretty good. I used two TCRT5000 proximity sensors and ran them through an op-amp and then to an OR gate, so if either sensor picks up the reflection of the mail, it would close the...
Thanks. I just used a Dremel and hollowed out the inside. I went a little too deep, but I centered the LEDs and filled it with clear glue. I'll probably use it on one of my RC planes. The LEDs that I used are 1608 SMD. They were a little hard to get straight, so one is a little off. It...
I want to thank you guys for helping me get my project started. I was lost, but thankfully, due to your explanations and help with coding, I was able to put together a relatively simple circuit to mimic the old Twin Sonic lightbars from the 1970s. The first one I made was on very thin...
Alright, I got the larger PIC programmed and it is working great. Had to read a little more and figured out my errors. Getting a better understanding, but have a LONG way to go. There is a lot of 'pointing to other areas' to either get info or to turn things on/off and if you don't remember...
Just finding out the meanings for all of the little "codes." Now, I can start to really see workings. I didn't know that & was AND and | was OR. It is all making much more sense now. I'm going to start migrating this over to a different PIC and I'll report back how I do. Thank you very much...
Excellent. Thank you. I'm getting more comfortable with understanding the code. I'm also trying to make it through the XC Compiler Guide. Trying to learn C, Asm and PIC programming at the same time is very overwhelming.
It is just a small project that I thought would be easy...lol I want to have different beacons for RC cars. I wanted them to be replicas of single beacon rotators as well as multi-rotator lightbars, so I want the ability to run 12 (or more LEDs) for some lights and down to 4 LEDs for others...
So, I have the details down about adding/removing LEDs from the mix by adjusting the offsets based on the "Step_Max." That works good, but when I do that, it leaves the LEDs that I "removed" lit all the time. I did uncomment "PORTA = outimg;" and commented "PORTA = ~outimg;" so the LEDs would...
I just redid the process and now it is working as it should. I do think I remember just copying the code into the original project. Sorry about that and thank you.
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