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Maybe something like this: https://www.elexp.com/srp_r401.htm
Or do you want to have the daughter board sit directly in/above the socket? Then you could take the above DipPlug, without it's top and ribbon cable, and solder the tabs directly to your daughter board. Either that or your machine socket idea.
It would be more than a little work but if no other sollutions are present you can always pull the pins out of the header with plyers mount them in a drill press/dremel tool/power drill type deal and use a grinding stone to trim them down on one end so they're rounded and smaller. That's 28 pins though that's a fair amount of work, if it's a one off project probably not a bad idea.
Try flipping standard headers around, so the plastic part is on the silkscreen part of the board. That way they're not so long (depending on the thickness of the board). The only problem might be soldering them; the solder could interfere with the socket.
-Infamous
EDIT: Whoops, I guess you were talking about the pins being too thick. In that case, it might be good to expand on Sceadwian's idea, but make a mock router table or something to shave in one direction uniformly.
It'd be pretty simple Bob. Get the pins in the position you want in the header before you pull them out. Use a permanent marker so you know where the base of the part that extends from the plastic that will enter your socket is. Once you pull the pins out you'll have that black mark to know where to mount them in the dremel tool chuck. Spin it up and press carefully on a grinding stone. Just watch it, it's easy to grind things to a point in a dremel tool this way =) I've done this to grind toothpicks into perfect little miniature wooden stakes for a piece of scenery I made for a friends Warhammer game. Drill bit through the skull of a model miniature, insert toothpick. Little details like that add a lot to a model scene. But I digress =>
Wow and thanks for the input. It is not important enough to merit that much work.
I know we did this at one time but maybe the trick was to use a machine tool socket on the main board. I have a friend from the old days and will give him a call tomorrow.
In looking at a datasheet for a typical Tyco "500-series" machined-pin DIP socket (e.g. mouser.com 506-508-AG11D), I see that they also accept round pins that are from .016" to .021" diameter, with a .105" minimum length, in addition to .009"x.015" through .011"x.020" rectangular pins.
Mill-Max makes a long-tail DIP socket with pins that have .020" width (can't tell if they're round or not) and .170" length, which should leave .105" or more pin-length under your daughterboard for daughterboard thicknesses of .065" or less, except for the thickness of the solder joints. So they might work if you use a .031"-thick daughterboard. Part numbers for 40-pin ones, at mouser.com, are 575-11143640 and 575-993640. They would have to be soldered on the bottom side of your board.
Mill-Max also makes DIP headers (with .018" pins) that might work better, if you use two single-inline ones. But you'd have to solder them on the top side of the board. You can go to http://www.mouser.com and search for 575-641591 and then download the catalog page from the link that will come up with the part listing, and look at the last four items on the page. They're a little pricey. So it might be a good idea to look at some cheapo pin headers' datasheets and see if any of their pins are small-enough.
Aries Electronics ( http://www.arieselec.com ) makes some adapters that are just like the ones ericgibbs pointed out. Mouser.com has them, but apparently only up to 28 pins. Their datasheet shows the pins as .019" x .015" x .150". So they might leave .105" for the socket, if you use a .031" daughterboard thickness, depending on the thickness of your solder joints. (But notice that their rectangular pins are larger than the Tyco socket is spec'd for. Typo, maybe?)
Aries also makes some 40-pin machine pin collet sockets that have a .183"x.020" solder tail pin (their "E" version: Aries # 40-6518-10E). But they're "non-stocked" at mouser.com .
If none of the above will work for you, it looks like maybe you should just look closely at the specs for various sockets and headers, and you might find some that would work.
hi gootee,
I dont solder the header thru the pcb, the pins are are really too short.
I either solder the small daughter pcb vertically, using the upper part of the header pin or bend the upper pin part at right angles
and solder under the daughter pcb.
Hope that makes sense, sounds a little confusing.
As you may know, you can buy 0.1inch pitch sockets and pins, designed to 'piggy back' pcbs.
I think that 3v0 wants to make use of a 40 pin DIL socket already mounted on a pcb???
All you would need to do is solder the wire wrap "poles/legs" under the daughter board. This way, you should have a fairly easy all-in-one component to use instead of having to solder individual legs in one by one, and they will all be lined up.
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) What about something like this?
