Where can I find a protoboard like this?

[gootee]

I used to make a lot of protopcbs, very similar to that one.

If you have access to a laser printer and a drillpress, you could easily make your own and get exactly what you want.

I have the downloadable (bitmap) copper pattern for a similar pcb posted at:

**broken link removed**

You can use a Paint-type program to cut and paste, etc, to lengthen it, or modify it however you want.

The quick and easy method to fabricate them yourself is posted, there, too.

PCBs were so easily and quickly made, that way, that I stopped using solderless breadboards. Soldered breadboards function much better. And after I got some decent PCB-layout software (Easy-PC, from http://www.numberone.com , which I love), I stopped using general-purpose proto-board layouts, too, and started making dedicated layouts for each board. You can get much better performance with a dedicated layout.

Good luck.

- Tom Gootee

**broken link removed**

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[delussional77]

wow, gootee, thats pretty impressive

sadly i don't have a laser printer, and i already ordered, populated, and tested the large boards from futurelec.

they work fine and are very, very similar to a pair of solderLESS protoboards stacked bottom and top. you just have to connect all the busses, which is a pain in the ass, and you lose 2/5 of each usable bus service.

 

[gootee]

wow, gootee, thats pretty impressive

sadly i don't have a laser printer, and i already ordered, populated, and tested the large boards from futurelec.

they work fine and are very, very similar to a pair of solderLESS protoboards stacked bottom and top. you just have to connect all the busses, which is a pain in the ass, and you lose 2/5 of each usable bus service.

Thanks. I posted all of that a few years ago, so everyone else wouldn't have to "re-invent the wheel".

Well, "maybe next time...". But maybe you could still have made PCBs to serve as add-on busses, or whatever you need.

Since you don't have a laser printer, note that you can also use most photocopiers, as long as they have similar toner. Most (all?) laser and copier toner is made mostly of plastic, which is a very good etchant-resist. One key part of the method I posted is using exactly the right kind of paper, so you can transfer the toner to the copper board as well as possible. That also makes it way cheaper than commercial toner-transfer sheets, and locally-available in many areas.

For one-sided boards, especially, the method also works extremely well for applying silkscreen-layer artwork.

- Tom Gootee

**broken link removed**

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[Rolf]

Handy copper foil ........

wow, gootee, thats pretty impressive

sadly i don't have a laser printer, and i already ordered, populated, and tested the large boards from futurelec.

they work fine and are very, very similar to a pair of solderLESS protoboards stacked bottom and top. you just have to connect all the busses, which is a pain in the ass, and you lose 2/5 of each usable bus service.

Stain glass artisans use copper foil in their craft. This foil has a high temp adhesive and comes in different widths and thicknesses (1.0 mil, 1.25 mil & 1.50 mil) I use mostly 3/16" (1 mil). A roll of 36' cost less than $ 6.00. Brand name Master Foil Plus.
This foil is most useful for adding busses or other modifications to PCB's. Check it out.