When would I use a solder pucker over a solder braid?

[alphaai]

Hello,

I wasnt too sure when I would use solder pucker over a solder braid.
They do the same job right? Removing solder.
Im a newbie so still learning.
Thanks,

Ben

 

[cr0sh]

I think you mean a solder sucker (trying to envision what a solder pucker would look like)...

I've found it handy to have both on hand - sometimes, you try the braid, and it just isn't working - so you try the sucker and it does (and vice-versa). There's also the fact that solder braid transfers heat very well, leading to hot fingertips. Another issue might be static electricity or other conductivity issues (the solder braid is conductive, whereas the solder sucker probably isn't). In my opinion, you should always have both on hand.

 

[3v0]

With a sucker you may need to add solder to the solder you want to remove. The new solder supplies flux that allows the old to move easier.

My solder sucker died a while back and since then I have been using newtons first law of motion to remove solder from holes.

Also use braid sometimes with liquid flux.

Seems like the theme here is that flux is just a useful for desoldering as soldering.

 

[Gobbledok]

I use a solder sucker when I have a relatively large amount of solder to get rid of, say to clean a via (plated-through hole) up. Solder wick comes in handy for more delicate/fine work, suck as cleaning the legs up of a SMD device. Sometimes you will start with the solder sucker and finish up with the solder wick. Flux/extra solder is always handy.

 

[Sceadwian]

I personally have never had much luck with solder suckers, at least not the spring operated ones. Bulb type suckers might be better.

 

[cr0sh]

I personally have never had much luck with solder suckers, at least not the spring operated ones. Bulb type suckers might be better.

I've always wanted to try one of those desoldering irons (that have the squeeze bulb), but I could never justify the cost of one for the sake of satisfying my curiosity...

 

[Sceadwian]

cr0sh, just buy the squeeze bulb separate, you might even be able to use one of those baby nose clearing things as long as it's made out of a silicone plastic. You might be able to make a concentrator nozzle for a common vacuum cleaner.

 

[cr0sh]

cr0sh, just buy the squeeze bulb separate, you might even be able to use one of those baby nose clearing things as long as it's made out of a silicone plastic. You might be able to make a concentrator nozzle for a common vacuum cleaner.

Oh - I already have the squeeze bulb solder sucker; I've collected a lot of this crap over the years - just never a desoldering iron (although there's a busted one at Apache Reclamation here in Phoenix that I've been "eyeing" - but I have enough junk). To be honest, I haven't had the need to use any of the desoldering aids when assembling components lately, and I don't do much rework or salvaging of components (I tend to buy components - either surplus or new - instead of salvaging them).

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

I've used the bulb alone - really cheap; doesn't work
I've used the bulb that's permanently attached to the iron; Works for big globs
I've used the spring loaded ones - the tips keep wearing away. Somewhat effective.
I have a temperature controlled vacuum sucker now - nice (just have to keep it clean)
I've used the braid in various sizes. The size of the braid makes a difference too.

Cut pins to reduce the thermal mass. Remove excess solder. Add solder and suck again.

With multi-layer boards your left with only the professional desoldering station.

 

[3v0]

Not all of the spring loaded suckers are created equal. Mine had a metal body with a tip that did not melt away like the more common blue plastic jobs you see everywhere. The spring was a more powerful. Need to see if I can fix it.

I found it in an old toolbox at work and have no idea regarding the brand.

Regarding Newton's first law. Clip the lead flush with both side of the PCB. Add a glob of fresh solder and rap the board on the bench. The board stops and the solder does not. When this works it does a very nice job with less heat then braid.

 

[atferrari]

Risk of damage to the rest?

Add a glob of fresh solder and rap the board on the bench.

I do it sometimes but fearing damage to the other ICs in the board. Strictly speaking, isn't it risky?

I have a desoldering gun which I paid dearly but worked fine for the last 10 years ++.

 

[3v0]

Yes there is risk. But you also risk lifting traces etc. Life is a tradeoff.

 

[atferrari]

True

Life is a tradeoff.

Oh, sí, sí. Es verdad. Took me time to accept that. I always expected things to be perfect. Rarely they are.

 

[crutschow]

I do it sometimes but fearing damage to the other ICs in the board. Strictly speaking, isn't it risky?

There is a slight risk but ICs (especially the common plastic molded devices) can tolerate a very high shock level, probably nearly as high as a typical resistor or capacitor, without failing.

 

[Sceadwian]

3v0, all the spring loaded ones I've ever used go off like a shotgun, they were cheap ones though, barely are able to remove solder, perhaps the nozzel needs a different shape to act as a pneumatic release so it doesn't slam back like a gun but draws air in stiffly for a few seconds.

The physical shock as long as it doesn't consist of something like a dead blow with a hammer is harmless to most IC's, heat is the enemy and keeping the peak temperature bellow the bad ranges is the key. Take a look at an IR reflow soldering profile sometime, they're HARSH compared to what most people will put the chips through while desoldering.

 

[tunedwolf]

I would say use a little flux and or add some leaded solder to the joint, whip it away with a solder pump and then clean up with a little braid. I use 2mm braid generally. The only solder pump I would recommend is the Abeco, but I'm sure there are others equally as good. It's Antistatic and has 3 spring (speed) settings and a flexible silicone nozzle. The latter is an absolute must have feature if you are working on delicate boards to avoid any damage done by the recoil as the pump fires. Stay well away from the types of pump that have hard Plastic/ Nylon nozzles.

 

[3v0]

3v0, all the spring loaded ones I've ever used go off like a shotgun, they were cheap ones though, barely are able to remove solder, perhaps the nozzel needs a different shape to act as a pneumatic release so it doesn't slam back like a gun but draws air in stiffly for a few seconds.

This is a great solder sucker. The screw that holds the handle used to cock the spring broke.