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I searched on google but did not find much of any info.. I'm used to 2 sided but I wanted to put some Superflux LED's on a board with a voltage regulator and I wonder if a 1 sided would be suited for this?
sure, why not. additional layers become necessary when number of nets/traces increase to a point that there are too many crossings.
another is shielding for example. unless there is something special that is not mentioned yet, none of this should prevent you from using single sided board.
yeah not going to use much crossing at all.. but I was a little quick on ordering one board i ordered s stripboard from Veroboard and having just thinking about it i don't think a stripboard will be well suited for the LED's since I'm connecting them in series and they will be 4 in a row.
Single sided boards from the cheaper short run fab houses are no cheaper than double sided. However, if you're doing a big production run of thousands and can lay out the board with all the conductors on one side, a rather fragile single sided phenolic board can be used to cut production costs.
If it's through hole, double sided offers the equivalent of a rivet consisting of two pads with plate through all held together with solder. This is preferable for larger components that could be subjected to a lot of mechanical stress. There is also the opportunity to lay a ground plane for better noise immunity and EMI/RFI emissions.
The only home fabrication I do is single sided toner transfer and the only reason I do it is cost. Getting simple but large power circuits fabricated is expensive compared to a tiny SMD controller.
The next project in this queue is a custom crossover circuit for a speaker rebuild. If features just nine components and they are all pretty sizeable. A pair from BatchPCB would likely be $70. I can do them myself for less than $10. Fabbing a board makes sense given the speaker's metal enclosure (inductors should be an inch away) and the back of the terminal plate features four integrated standoffs (no additional holes). I could use a protoboard but it really won't save me much. The integrated standoffs won't line up with the 0.1" (2.54mm) ctc holes and a big 1.5" (38mm) hole that will further compromise its mechanical strength needs to be drilled in the middle of them.
My stripboard arrived today, is it possible to cut the traces on the board? I should of ordered the perfboard version of this because of the way I'm mounting the LED's
what do you use to cut? cutting wheel? X-cato knife?
I use a cordless (electric) screwdriver with a 1/8" drill bit in it to cut veroboard tracks. It takes about 2 seconds to cut a track and no wrist strain. It's a ver "old school" way of cutting tracks but works fine.
shoot I forgot to ask about that too the board is about 2 inches tall and I was looking to makes it about a inch or so what's the best way to cut it lengthwise?
shoot I forgot to ask about that too the board is about 2 inches tall and I was looking to makes it about a inch or so what's the best way to cut it lengthwise?
A rough "rule of thumb" I've found is, in a production run, a double-sided board will be about twice the cost of single-sided, and a multilayer board will be about twice the cost of double-sided.
If you don´t need nice corners you can also break the cheaper ones pretty easily.
I use exacto knife to cut the traces, just cut it near the hole, allways cutting from outside going into the hole. This way the knife stops in the hole and doesn´t go elsewhere.
Long after the U.S. went to double-sided boards, the Japanese were still doing everything single-sided, populating the boards more densely, making the same equipment smaller and not seem to mess with the reliability of the equipment. While the U.S. manufacturers always insisted on laying their axial-lead components flat to the board taking up more space, the Japanese stood theirs on-end. The on-end mounting was a burn for us hobbyists who were scavenging boards for parts as that made for one short little lead on one end.
There are a number of factors that drive the choice between single and double sided boards. For home made boards where you don't have the ability to do plated through holes, single sided boards are esiest.
If you are going to use a PCB shop, the cost savings of a single sided board are not large, because most of the production time for making a PCB is in the drill and etch processes. A single sided board will usually have more holes for jumper wires than a 2 layer board, so the drill time is longer. The etching is about the same because both sides etch at the same time.
For high volume products where single sided boards can be used, they often are because they can be made quicker and cheaper. This is because the material often used is paper based, instead of fiberglass. Not only is the materiel cheaper, but it can be punched instead of drilled, allowing all of the holes to be made in a few seconds. While this is a big advantage for single layer boards, it doesn't lend itself to plated through holes. Punching the epoxy paper tends to cause horizontal fractures within the pcb structure. These fractures produce internal shorts if you try to do plated through holes.
Sometimes a larger single layer board is used, even though it is almost empty, because the PCB supports connectors, controls and display items that need to be in a certain place. This saves cost by reducing, or eliminating, wiring costs.
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