what would be equal to this part/coil?

[sirelboe]

Hey guys,

I dont know too much about circuits but I am trying to repair a LG DLP 52'' TV (MN:52SX4D) and I figured out some parts that need to be replaced.. I managed to order everything I needed but one part is out of production (so the manufacturer says) its listed as a coil / choke 10uh.. and thats all thats described for it.. basically I need a substitute for it..
this is the info i found on it:
Part Number 150-C02V
Description Coil Choke *Nla*
Substitute Part n/a

this is the service manual I found for it:
www(dot)vancebaldwin(dot)com
you need to log in as guest (left side) and on the left side enter the model # 52sx4d and in the results its the first one with the .pdf file..
on page 40 of that pdf location #s L831 says part # 150-C02V and description is COIL,CHOKE 10UH
I need a more detailed description of this part or something i can use instead of it.. anyone please with knowledge of this would be muchly appreciated..
Thanks,
sirelboe

 

[OutToLunch]

there's no way to tell what the inductor specs would be from that description. The last 6 pages of that pdf file include the schematics for the TV. Find L831 and tell us where it is (page number, which schematic, etc etc. This will show us what the inductor is used for. Then take a pic of the bad inductor or the spot on the circuit board where it should be assembled and also give those dimensions and specs (surface mount, through hole, etc). It could just be a small filter inductor or it could be a switching regulator output inductor or any number of other uses.

 

[sirelboe]

ok well its the power board on the verry last page of the pdf file Page 50 the one that says "POWER".. on the right side of the board L841 (with the swirly "coil" in it) that was burt.. and C898 and R899 down the dotted line going thru the big transformer in the middle i noticed went dead also..

 

[OutToLunch]

ok, so i found L831 in the schematics. It is the filter inductor for the DLP-4.5V rail. This rail is one of many rails that are part of a multi-output, isolated DC-DC converter. With that inductor burned, I would also be checking for continuity on the transformer pins (pins 21 and 22) and also checking other components on that leg: J826(should just be a wire jumper), FB831, D831, etc. (You can locate these parts on the schematic on page 45 - its the schematic in the middle of the page).

regarding a replacement for L831... It looks like it's a through hole inductor. It's the same inductor as L861, L891, L881, and L841. Can you take a picture of one of those inductors? It would be helpful in determining the type of core, the wire gauge, etc.

Barring all that, you could just wind your own 10uH inductor using magnet wire that is the same gauge or slightly lower than the gauge used in the burnt inductor.

 

[sirelboe]

**broken link removed**


**broken link removed**

 

[sirelboe]

**broken link removed**

 

[OutToLunch]

this may take a few days - specially since its friday...

i would caution, though, that once you get this power supply back up and running, it could fail again. a wire that is hot to the touch is not a good sign and points to excessive current draw that is not normal. Trace where the hot wire goes to and see if there are any problems downstream that need to be addressed.

Also, is that how you found the inductor when you opened up the TV? I find it hard to believe that the core material busted off like that from an electrical fault. Damage like that is usually mechanical.

 

[sirelboe]

thanks for the info outotlunch!

well actually someone gave me the tv for free because it was busted.. well someone gave it to someone who gave it to me cuz they diddnt have the money to fix it..
but when i opened it up to examine it i noticed that someone had taken it apart before and had plugged in all the wires to wrong ports and such.. also on the board that the lamp connects to the pins in the connection were smooshed together and touching.. so thats what i think was the problem.. i tested everything else on the main board and the lamp board and could find nothing wrong.. the person who tried to fix it plugged the power board 12 pin wire with all the voltages into the audio/ video jack on the main board and thats what i noticed was getting hot..(pin/wire #6).. so i just quickly unplugged everything and tested all the boards and found the problem on the power board.. as of right now i havnt connected it the correct way yet and tried it cuz im waiting on that coil and other parts in the general area i ordered anyway so i can replace them and try it again the correct way/connections.. i did manage to find that coil online and did order them already so i feel good about that.. that coil that was burnt wasnt broken like that, i noticed that a smaller wire was sticking out of it and cut or melted so i poked gently at it alittle and the casing chipped off.. thats when i noticed it looked burnt inside/discolored... so basically i tested the rest of the board and the only other things i can find wrong with it is in the middle there seems to be a split down the middle with only 3 or 4 components seperating it into 2 sections thru the transformer, i suppose for that very reason to seperate the AC input from the transformer not to burn anything else out if there was a fault.. but anyway i know nothing about this stuff so im just guessing lol.. so anyway those 3 components were completely fried..
C898, C899, R859, im not sure how to test the part IC830 (looks like a micro chip or something.. )

 

[MrAl]

Hi there,

I would have to wonder what made this part blow out. It looks like (if nothing
dropped on it) that the part overheated and the case cracked open. That
would be caused (coils) by a current that was too high, and a current too
high would be caused by something else downstream drawing too much
current. You would have to fix that TOO to get the thing working again,
or the new coil would just pop again.
The other thing could be a shorted cap, shorted diode, shorted transistor, etc.

I have a TV a long time ago i could have fixed by replacing the flyback transistor.
The part was about 20 dollars if i rem right, but i didnt order one because there
could have been something else that caused this problem that would do the same
thing and i would be out the 20 dollars plus shipping. Instead i applied that 20
or 26 dollars toward a new tv set. The new tv set was about 100 bucks but it
came with a warranty.

 

[Mike - K8LH]

Does the Manufacturer sell a replacement power supply module?

Mike

 

[sirelboe]

u mean the whole power board mike?.. if so then yes they do for about $130, so u can see why i think spending about $30 to try to just replace those parts would make more sense.. if it doesnt work then i might have to go that route...

and to MrAl, i think i would have a pretty hard time finding a 52" TV for about $100, wouldnt u think?

 

[MrAl]

and to MrAl, i think i would have a pretty hard time finding a 52" TV for about $100, wouldnt u think?

Hi again,


Well, you could sell me yours for 10 dollars and i'll sell it back to you for
100 dollars ok? <insert chuckle here>

Ok, i didnt realize that your tv was that big, i assumed a regular set.
I read your first post too fast.
Still, if you waste money trying to fix this one it wont help much,
so it would be a good idea to try to look at some of the other components
and because the set obviously is so costly, i would definitely
invest in a schematic.

Here's another idea...
Is the coil wire burnt too or is it still ok? The reason i ask is because
it may be actually repairable. Also, if the wire is burnt, you might
be able to rewind the coil yourself. Count the turns as you take
them off (if you can i guess) and use the same diameter wire to
rewind it. You might have to carefully break off the rest of the case,
being careful not to break the core.

Also, since the values were given to you you may try winding your
own coil as someone suggested.

Also, since the set is costly i wonder what the service shop
would charge to fix this thing?

 

[sirelboe]

I did manage to find that part elsewhere online so i did order it already.. its backordered so i have to still wait a couple of weeks for it tho.. and the person that gave me the tv for free already got a quote on it and they said it would be anywhere from $300 - $500 to fix it..

but if all else fails i might just bring it to a shop for them to fix it and just try to sell it afterwards for anywhere around $800 - $1,100

looking online for who has it brand new it goes for about $2,300