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What to do with soldering iron before turning it off

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im_noob

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I am sure this questions was already answered but I am just unable to find the right answer.

When I finish soldering, what is the best practice to preserve the tip (I have some cheep iron with temperature controll and a spunge and I use some "hq nedis flux cored solder" sn:40, pb:60 0.7m/m flux 2.0% tin wire)?

Which one of these is correct:

- should I clean the tip with moist spunge and turn off the iron

or

- should I clean the tip with moist spunge, melt some fresh tin wire on it (I wrote what tim wire I use/have) and then turn off the iron

thanks in advance
 
I would think "clean the tip with moist spunge and turn off the iron" is the wrong thing to do.

I try to keep solder on the tip. I wipe it off prior to soldering and apply enough to create the wet tip needed for soldering. When I put it back on the stand I add more solder to protect the tip.

Maybe this is overkill with decent plated tips.
 
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3v0 this is interesting, the info I found is totally different from what you do (the link I found suggest that you wipe and turn off, you suggest retinning after wipe)...

I'd like to know the answer to this one too :) as mine iron was not that cheep (rework station) but my tips do not last long :( donno if that's because of the "wipe and turn off" or they are just pure quality
 
I do the same as 3v0 and my tips last a long time. I keep them clean with one of those 'brillo' tip cleaners.
 
I wipe it clean with a damp sponge.. CLEAN! Occasionally use one of those steel brillo pad cleaners. Other than that when the tip gets worn and loses it's tinning, I file and fine sand the tip to specs, followed by retinning. Last thing you want is a scratched and grooved tip as that invites shortened like of the tip.
 
This is new to me.
[FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313][FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313]
We recommend using distilled water when wetting the cleaning sponge. The mineral content in most tap water may contaminate your soldering tips.
[/FONT]
[/FONT]They also recommend running the iron much hotter then I do.[FONT=Times.New.Roman.Bold0108.313]

[FONT=Times.New.Roman.Bold0108.313]Soldering Iron Temperature Settings[/FONT]

[/FONT]

[FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313][FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313]In order to raise the temperature of solder above it.s melting point, soldering tip temperatures are usually set between 700[/FONT][/FONT]​
[FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313]
[/FONT]​
[FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313][FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313]F and 80[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Times.New.Roman063.313][FONT=Times.New.Roman063.313]0[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313][FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313]F[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Times.New.Roman.Bold0108.313][FONT=Times.New.Roman.Bold0108.313]. [/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313][FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313]Why such a high temperature when the most commonly[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313][FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313]used solders have a melting point under 400ºF? Using a higher temperature stores heat in the tip which speeds up the melting.[/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313]​
[/FONT]
[FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313][FONT=Times.New.Roman0108.313]I have been using about 250C or 475F.[/FONT]
[/FONT]
 
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My biggest problem with tip life is forgetting to turn off the soldering iron. I scrounged a wind-up wall timer, found an outlet in my junk, and bought a box. I made the timer in the picture below. I think the timer was originally a 30 minute unit, but when I tried it out, it only ran for 18 minutes, which is plenty long for me. If I forget to turn it off, it goes off automatically.
 

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Before turning off my iron, I always wipe the tip off with a wet sponge, and then melt a small blob of solder on it, then shut it off. I have had my tip for many years and it still looks new. Of course having a good quality iron and tip helps. Those cheapy irons with screw on tips are not good for a serious hobbiest.
 
My biggest problem with tip life is forgetting to turn off the soldering iron. I scrounged a wind-up wall timer, found an outlet in my junk, and bought a box. I made the timer in the picture below. I think the timer was originally a 30 minute unit, but when I tried it out, it only ran for 18 minutes, which is plenty long for me. If I forget to turn it off, it goes off automatically.

Cool idea. I notice you have a nice Weller. Those are the good tips I was talking about in my previous post.
 
I have an ERSA LS7000 which was a regulated heat with temperature display soldering kit.

The tips are ERSADUR with a special coating with absolutely no wear.

I've been using it for more than 25 years now and didn't have to replace one tip.

The tips should be left as they are after the last soldering joint.

When switching on the iron for next use I use 0.5mm soldering tin with non-aggressive flux just when the temperature reaches 183deg/C and wet the entire tip, then wipe it with a damp sponge. (Tinning a hot tip is not recommended, because it will already have a thin oxyde layer by that time. Can be observed because the tin won't flow but build up a blob.)

I even melt plastic material (PVC and ABS) using the tips. They become black all over caused by the melted material. After they have cooled the plastic leftovers can easily be removed with the sharp edge of a ruler. Next I heat the tip to 450deg/C and use soldering tin richly until it becomes shiny again.

Hans
 
Thank you all. So the winner is:

I clean the tip with moist spunge, melt some fresh tin wire on it and then turn off the iron

Sounds about right, the demineralised water trick is interesting but I think I will skip that for now. I would like to have the iron with a hollow tip that heats and suck in the same time (for desoldering trough hole components), but I believe I will get proficient with simple vacuum pump before I get enough money to purchase one...

Thanks again for the tips
 
I have always used distilled water (demineralized) on the sponge for cleaning the tip. I got used to doing that from having moderately hard water and the residue of calcium and lime deposits on the tip and cleaning sponge are a pain to deal with.
 
I melt solder onto it and then dunk it once into a brass sponge thing to even out the solder coat and turn it off. I don't use a moist sponge. Don't like it. Steals the heat and never seems to behave the way it should.
 
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I'll leave the iron as it is. Probably no solder left. Next time when taking there I can see some black dust on the tip. I will scratch it using a sandpaper and apply solder sometimes it refuses to catch try again and when a small ball catches, scratch the tip on the asbestos sheet to make it a uniform distribution over the tip. It's OK! I'm using my iron as a driller also for making holes on plastic boxes. After drilling I'll clean it using a dry cloth keeping the iron ON then again sand paper it. Clean! Again the process repeats for next soldering. My iron is almost 7yrs old. I haven't replaced the tip till now. Occasional use only.
How to know that the iron is getting hot.
------------------------------------
When my iron is switched ON I'll be on a confused state that whether it is getting warm or not. After a few seconds I'll take it close to my face and u know our face can sense heat easily. Not recommended!

A few times I've taken the iron at its hot end without knowing.:eek:
 
I never use a sponge, I generally just wipe it using dry toilet roll (if I need to). I don't clean it and tin it after I use it. I generally just unplug it. I've had my iron for at least 4 years and it hasn't corroded. The solder I leave on it protects it enough.

I either flick the solder off, or flick it off with my thumb.
 
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Pace, Inc., who has always been the de factor standard for NASA and military soldering and rework will tell you to NEVER wipe off a soldering iron before turning it off. It leaves a thin tin that will oxidize quickly and harm the tip. Always tin the tip heavily before turning the iron off. They also use wet sponges on iron tips right before making a solder joint as it "shocks off debris" with the temperature change. The trick is to use a cellulose sponge, not a polyurethane foam sponge!

**broken link removed**
http://www.pacedirect.com (this one's really slow-loading, but is Pace's actual site)

Dean
 
I'll leave the iron as it is. Probably no solder left. Next time when taking there I can see some black dust on the tip. I will scratch it using a sandpaper and apply solder sometimes it refuses to catch try again and when a small ball catches, scratch the tip on the asbestos sheet to make it a uniform distribution over the tip.

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: asbestos :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
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