What multimeter do you use?

[Reloadron]

Both meters are connected to the same source, a UPS Power Supply US standard 120 VAC 60 Hz. The output is MSW (Modified Sine Wave) so note how only the meter on the right presents a correct value of about 117 VAC. The meter on the laft, an inexpensive meter, responds to and displays the average value. The AC response may or may not effect your choice.

Ron

 

[ronsimpson]

What multimeter do you use?

The one with new batteries.
All the rest just sit there and look dead.

How to you measure if your batteries are good when all your meters don't have batteries?

 

[BobW]

While I'm normally one for recommending that you spend a bit more to get a better quality instrument, I must say that those really cheap $5 digital multimeters are truly a great deal. I've picked up several of them so that when I'm trying to measure several different voltages in a circuit simultaneously, I have enough meters to do it. If you're just starting out, and don't have a lot of money, then buy one of the cheap digital meters. It will be fine for what you want to measure. Later on when you have lots of money to spare, you can buy a Fluke. (I have not yet found the need to buy a Fluke.)

 

[be80be]

I thought about this all day I plugged my true rms meter in wall outlet it reads 120 volts same outlet I get 120 with a dvm they give you for free about every Sunday theres a coupon for a free one. Then read Bob post I laugh about the fluke I always wanted one but I've seen them read wrong and the only thing they was used for was to read the voltage coming to the meter of the house but the line men had to get his bosses meter cause both of his wasn't reading what mine did. But it was good that he stopped with the fluke stuff cause the line was hot and both meters he had said it was off the low battery wasn't coming on lol

 

[BobW]

I'm just reminded of the old 85/15 rule. To get 85% of the target performance, it costs only 15% of the budget. To get the remaining 15% performance, you spend the remaining 85% of the budget (if you're lucky).

 

[MrAl]

I bought a $25 Craftsman from Kmart almost 9 years ago and it's still going strong. I was surprised it worked so well.

Hi Matt,

How'd you get my meter?
That's amazing, i have the very same make and model. Got mine directly from Sears in Watchung, NJ. See attachment.

I must have about 20 meters. Of them i used that Craftsman one the most because it is small and easy to grab for a quick test. It also reads up to a count of 3999 rather than the usual 1999 which helps get better resolution readings. It also has a 'relative' mode which helps when you want to read the difference between one reading and the next several rather than an absolute measurement.

The other meters range in value from about 5 dollars (USD) up to about 350 dollars. The more expensive meter gives more digits in the measurement like 59999 instead of just the usual 1299. I also have a Radio Shack model i got a long time ago that has various test functions like capacitance and transistor and diode.

After testing many meters not only my own, i have to recommend NOT getting a very cheap one like 5 dollars. I would say at least 10 dollars prefer 20 dollars or more. 40 dollars will get a pretty nice meter. There are options too to think about.

Options include backlight, diode test, transistor test, cap test, frequency measurement, duty cycle, relative mode, AC, DC, RMS, LCD or LED. So it partly depends on what you think you might be measuring, and if you have to use it in low level lighting with no flashlight available. They almost all do resistance too.

Another thing to think about is the resolution. This is sort of important if you plan on reading low level signals. Many meters have 0.1 millivolt resolution on the lowest scale, but some dont. Some only go down to 1 millivolt. That's not to say that they are bad though, i have a 20 dollar unit that works very well for more normal voltages like 5v and 12v, but if i need low level measurement like for a current shunt, i have to use a different meter. It is pocket size too so it fits in the pocket.

So you might think about this for a while and look around, then decide what you really want. You dont want a really cheap meter that could be off either. The one i got from Harbor Freight for 5 bucks is not very good even though it has a back light. The meter is subject to interference from nearby EMR sources like the car ignition.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

But the HF meter has a battery test function which I use quite often. I have on labels the values of "good" other small batteries. No auto power off function.

 

[Willen]

After testing many meters not only my own, i have to recommend NOT getting a very cheap one like 5 dollars. I would say at least 10 dollars prefer 20 dollars or more. 40 dollars will get a pretty nice meter. There are options too to think about.

Options include backlight, diode test, transistor test, cap test, frequency measurement, duty cycle, relative mode, AC, DC, RMS, LCD or LED.

In my opinion, another options include- learner's (buyer's) necessary level of accuracy, level of electronics knowledge and economic level of the person.

Look at me- I am just an hobbyist (around starting same as OP said) and learning electronics slowly and informally. I am playing with V, I, R (ohms law). I did many simple projects but till now I never got a chance to experiment with very accurate value and its measurement. And my daily income is around $6 (six US dollar). In such condition, buying $40 would not be relief to me. If I bought $10 DMM, I could save $30 and from the $30 I could buy many more other electronics parts. Now I have $5 DMM and it has capacitance meter and hFE test with V-I-R feature. It measures not very badly but some time its readings goes high..high... high....high and high like a digital clock's 'second' digits. And stops never. Then I need to turn OFF and ON. Sometime need many OFF-ON. Also it becomes unstable while measuring VERY low and VERY high values.

Today I saw its stomach and found two LM324 ICs and a master IC patched to the PCB and poured black epoxy over it (unknown IC). Getting LM324 IC inside, I think it's not a GOOD one however not so bad one too. (however anyone always want and wish to buy an accurate one, me too.)

 

[be80be]

I guess I'll share the sound card scope the op should make one it's easy to make and works really well for what you said you want to do

analogue audio

https://makezine.com/projects/sound-card-oscilloscope/

 

[large_ghostman]

I have a good quality Tenma that I use for highish voltage etc and a couple of bench meters for accurate readings, and low voltage stuff (5V-12V) I use a crappy £10 meter. THEN I have my 3 AVO meters when its life and death situations or when I want to carry around something big enough to stand on to reach the top shelf .
Edit
Once upon a time on here I was told the following.....

If you are dealing with high current or high voltage dont use a cheap meter, its nothing to do with accuracy or anything like that. I have been messing with a wind turbine, its pretty big and kicks out 600V DC that is then converted and passed to the grid.
It had a problem and I needed to make sure that the generator inside the tower at the top was pushing out the right voltage, I coudnt be bothered to go get my decent meter and used a cheapo Chinese one I had with me. I hooked the crock clips up and set the meter to the DC 1000V range, 670V seemed to be coming down but fluctuating a bit much.

I decided to leave the meter connected and go and grab the ram thing that lowers the tower, I got 100M away when BANG. I came back and the meter I had been holding a couple of minuets before was in a bit of a mess. No idea what happened but I do know that 100V was never exceeded (wind speed logger said 14ms so over voltage not a chance), a cheap meter is great for when you have a artificial hand or low volts, but expensive meters cost more but offer better protection and have been through good quality control.
Money can be a problem but earning more is alot harder when you have less fingers to do it. My dad dosnt use a meter for testing if a socket is live he just touches the live wire! Me I have more grey matter than dad so I now use the right tool for the right job.
I dont own a fluke as I dont want to pay for the name, but I do have a decent meter and now never use anything else on the turbines

 

[bbiandov]

IMHO Fluke 87 III is excellent choice without going into uber snobby bench top gear which also gets really expensive. For 20 years I used various meters until one day I felt it's time to "play with the big boys" and upgraded. The differences are subtle at first but after few months of using the 87 I can't imagine going back and I started to wonder how many times I've made bad assumptions in the past purely based on the measurements that those other toys gave me.

 

[large_ghostman]

Most reviews seem to suggest fluke are getting a bit.............. Chinese? I have a £30 bench meter from ebay thats really old and measures 6 figures, I put it up against the schools bench meter (5 digits) thats new and calibrated, the error in them was so small it could well have been the leads. Decent bench meters dont have to cost a fortune, sometimes with luck and a good eye you can still get old bricks that works well. I would Love a HP multi meter but cant afford one and dont need one, my tenma according to my bench meter is spot on. For what I measure with a multi meter Fluke etal just dont warrant the cost, but if I used a meter daily for work then of course it changes and I want reliable and repeatable and a long life.
Horses for courses, You dont need a F1 car for driving to the shops and you wouldnt do well in F1 with a 1980 Skoda

 

[be80be]

Flukes are calibrated with the leads that come with the meter. That's part of there egde. But there's lots of good meters and even a old vom you know the ones with a meter that you have look right at to read have a place. Look up vom as a poor man's scope. I'm sure you can catch stuff with the fluke that you can't with a cheap meter but lve not seen much use in 34 years for a $400 meter when a $100 or less way less will do the same stuff most people need to do. Read volts DC ohms and caps after all most stuff can be 10℅ off and even most cheap meters are less then .5% off I have a true rms meter top of the line in its brand I read a wall outlet its 120.90 volts my cheapy reading the same outlet 120.9 volts a 1 k resistor 985 ohms same on both DC off my computer USB 4.98 volts same on both laptop 5.1 volts same on both and the last test cheapy reads 2.58 volts on a pwm pin of a pic my mini scope reads 2.58 but it can tell you what it looks like. But a logic tool would be better and don't even have to read the volts if all you need to no is it blinking lol

 

[large_ghostman]

You cant beat an old AVO meter , I can even reach the top shelf standing on mine , its also a good work out carrying it around and never leave it behind as you notice your not carrying a house about. How many here have left a meter somewhere?

 

[be80be]

You cant beat an old AVO meter , I can even reach the top shelf standing on mine , its also a good work out carrying it around and never leave it behind as you notice your not carrying a house about. How many here have left a meter somewhere?

Thats a good one. The best meter I ever bought true rms I think I gave $98 for it at lowes it did everything under the sun. I fixed a AC unit with it had a bad starting cap. It was pouring the rain I left two days later I got to looking for my meter it's gone.
I went back to the AC unit and it was laying there full of water LOL it never worked again.

 

[large_ghostman]

I could lend you my AVO if you wanna fix your meter LOL

 

[be80be]

I could lend you my AVO if you wanna fix your meter LOL

It got the LCD and that had a chip on pcb blob LOL the rest you could fix but not the LCD.
You know Little Ghostman I glade to see you posting here again It made my day to read your post.
I moved to KY and the test equipment I use the most was in my car like a dumby I left it unlocked. Guess I'll never by any high dollar gear for some one to take.
I just remembered what brand the best new meter I owned idead
**broken link removed**
look at these spec.

Specifications Range and Resolution Accuracy
DC Voltage 400.0m/4.000/40.00/400.0 V ±(0.5%+5)
600.0V ±(1.0%+3)
AC Voltage (40-400Hz) 400.0m/4.00/40.00/400.0/600 V ±(1.5%+5)
DC Current 400.0/4000 µA; 40.00/400.0 mA ±(0.5%+5)
4.000/10.00 A ±(1.5%+5)
AC Current 400.0/4000 µA ±(1.5%+5)
40.00/400.0 mA ±(2.0%+5)
4.000/10.00 A ±(2.5%+5)
Resistance 400.0Ω ±(1.2%+5)
4.000k/40.00k/400.0k Ω ±(1.0%+2)
4.000MΩ ±(1.2%+2)
40.00MΩ ±(2.0%+5)
Capacitance* 40.00nF ±(3.0%+10)
400.0n/4.000µ/40.00µ F ±(3.0%+5)
400.0µ/4000µ F ±(20%+5)
Frequency 10.00/100.0/1.000k/10.00k/100.0k/
1.000M/10.00M Hz ±(0.1%+3)
Sensitivity: <1MHz: 0.7Vrms; >1MHz: 5Vrms
Temperature** -58-1500°F
-50-800°C ±(3.0%+5)
±(3.0%+3)
* Accuracy not available for <10nF capacitance.

 

[be80be]

This is the fluke 87 The fluke Is really good But god i can't see $400 for one .

Specifications
Voltage DC Maximum voltage 1000 V
Accuracy ±(0.05% + 1)
Maximum resolution 10 µV
Voltage AC Maximum voltage 1000 V
Accuracy ±(0.7% + 2) True RMS
AC bandwidth 20 kHz with low pass filter; 3 db @ 1 kHz
Maximum resolution 0.1 mV
Current DC Maximum amps 10 A (20 A for 30 seconds maximum)
Amps accuracy ±(0.2% + 2)
Maximum resolution 0.01 µA
Current AC Maximum amps 10 A (20 A for 30 seconds maximum)
Amps accuracy ±(1.0% + 2) True RMS
Maximum resolution 0.1 µA
Resistance Maximum resistance 50 MΩ
Accuracy ±(0.2% + 1)
Maximum resolution 0.1 Ω
Capacitance Maximum capacitance 9,999 µF
accuracy ±(1% + 2)
Maximum resolution 0.01 nF
Frequency Maximum frequency 200 kHz
Accuracy ±(0.005% + 1)
Maximum resolution 0.01 Hz
Duty cycle Maximum duty cycle 99.9%
Accuracy ±(0.2% per khz + 0.1%)
Maximum resolution 0.1%
Temperature measurement –200.0°C – 1090°C
–328.0°F – 1994.0°F
excluding probe
80 BK temperature probe –40.0°C – 260°C
–40.0°F – 500°F, 2.2°C or 2% whichever is greater
Conductance Maximum conductance 60.00 nS
Accuracy ±(1.0% + 10)
Maximum resolution 0.01 nS
Diode Range 3 V
Resolution 1 mV
Accuracy ±(2% + 1)
Duty cycle range Accuracy Within ±(0.2% per kHz + 0.1%)
Environmental Specifications
Operating temperature –20°C to + 55°C
Storage temperature –40°C to + 60°C
Humidity (without condensation) 0% – 90% (0°C – 35°C)
0% – 70% (35°C – 55°C)
Operating Altitude 2000 m
Safety Specifications
Overvoltage category EN 61010–1 to 1000 V CAT III, 600V CAT IV
Agency approvals UL, CSA, TÜV, VDE listed
Mechanical and General Specifications
Size 201 x 98 x 52 mm (with holster)
Weight 355 g
624 g – with holster
Display Digital 6000 counts updates 4/sec.
19,999 counts in high–resolution mode
Analog 32 segments, updates 40/sec
Frequency 19,999 counts, updates 3/sec at > 10 Hz
Warranty Lifetime
Battery Life Alkaline ~400 hours typical, without backlight
Shock 1 Meter drop per IEC 61010–1:2001
Vibration Per MIL–PRF–28800 for a Class 2 instrument

 

[large_ghostman]

I love the hobby use where people buy accurate meters like that then use a ATX power supply to power it . But again if your a sparks then the build quality might just make it worth it, especially as its portable, for my use if I need to be 0,05v accurate then I use the cheap bench meter happy in the knowledge that with 6 digits you are not gonna be that far off.
Then I go plug it into my ATX and let the 1V ripple mess it all up . Seriously though I have used the HP DMM at school and I love it but not going to spend £500 one

 

[Grossel]

The most expensive meter I own (not oscilloscopes and that kind of instruments) is a Fluke 1507 Insulation tester. Had it for about 3 years now.
I just recently bought a cheap L/C meter, barebone "LC100-A".
I actually don't know if any of those falls into the category multimeter.

The multimeter I've used most is my Instrutek GDM 354A. It measures capacitors and inductors as well .