Continue to Site

Welcome to our site!

Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

  • Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

What is this?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Davey C Sr

New Member
I'm looking at Mercury tilt switches.I ran across this on ad in Ebay! Just don't know what it means. The bulb is thick heavy glass. Not "ROHS" Compliant. “NOS”???

Could some one explain what the degrees have to do with these switches!

I'm looking for a switch to use in my boat, on locker lids! Use them to turn on lights when I raise them up! Off when closed. They go from horizontal(90) to open (45 deg ).

Thank You For Your Help.........:eek:

Davey Crockett Sr
 
I'm looking at Mercury tilt switches.I ran across this on ad in Ebay! Just don't know what it means. The bulb is thick heavy glass. Not "ROHS" Compliant. “NOS”???

Could some one explain what the degrees have to do with these switches!

I'm looking for a switch to use in my boat, on locker lids! Use them to turn on lights when I raise them up! Off when closed. They go from horizontal(90) to open (45 deg ).

Thank You For Your Help.........:eek:

Davey Crockett Sr

The definition and aim of the RoHS directive is quite simple. The RoHS directive aims to restrict certain dangerous substances commonly used in electronic and electronic equipment. Any RoHS compliant component is tested for the presence of Lead (Pb), Cadmium (Cd), Mercury (Hg), Hexavalent chromium (Hex-Cr), Polybrominated biphenyls (PBB), and Polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDE). For Cadmium and Hexavalent chromium, there must be less than 0.01% of the substance by weight at raw homogeneous materials level. For Lead, PBB, and PBDE, there must be no more than 0.1% of the material, when calculated by weight at raw homogeneous materials. Any RoHS compliant component must have 100 ppm or less of mercury and the mercury must not have been intentionally added to the component. In the EU, some military and medical equipment are exempt from RoHS compliance.

Since they are Mercury switches and contain mercury they can't be ROHS compliant. That is about all it means and the seller is making it clear they are not ROHS compliant.

Ron
 
ROHS stands for Removal Of Hazardous Substances whcih is an EU directive that prohibits nasty toxic substances such as mercury and lead from being used in products destined for the EU market.

The activation angle is measured in degrees.
 
NOS = New Old Stock

Which means that the material is several years old but has never been used and is in "new Condition".

JimB
 
Consider using ball in cage switches over mercury tilt switches. They're better for the environment if broken, especially if broken over water.
 
Or a microswitch.
Very simple and will operate most stuff directly.

John :)
 
When you say measured in degs. Is this the angle it works or makes a circuit ? Or works the best? I've thought of micro switches. But water proof? I have several ideas, thinking about motorcycle alarm sensor.Do not know if it is a ball or mercury??

Thank You All For Your Time.........

Davey Crockett Sr.
 
Last edited:
water proof .... good point.

Reed switches are water proof.
But positioning would have to be such that they operate as you require.
By that i mean that the proximity of a magnet closes the switch,
so you would have to arrange that the magnet was near with the lid open,
and further with the lid closed.

Again, reed switches are easy to understand and will switch reasonable loads,
meaning that extra circuitry may not be required.

John :)
 
Thank You!!! I had not heard of those in a while. Will give them a look.I found some water proof micro switches. But Company hasn't gotten back to me yet!

Thank You For Your Time Davey Crockett Sr
 
Using magnetic reed switches is a good option. The main downside I see is they are pretty limited as to current handling. **broken link removed** is one of several manufacturers and they are pretty widely distributed. Actually in their simplest form they can be had at places like Lowes and Home Depot as they are used for entry alarm systems.

Micro switches are another good option but I think you will find a basic micro switch is pretty cheap with decent current carrying ability. The problem is when you add waterproof to the equation. If they go by NEMA standards they can get pricey real quick.

Even the cheap simple solution of mercury switches has a problem depending on where the boat is and how much it rocks in the water.

Really depends on the current required for each lamp by hatch on the compartments. How many watt lamps (bulbs)?

Ron
 
I don't see why the current rating should be a problem?

Use a relay or a a transistor if the current rating is too low.

An alternative to a reed switch is a hall effect sensor but you will need to use a transistor to increase the current capacity but it has the advantage of being solid state which means it won't wear out like a mechanical switch will.
 
I don't see why the current rating should be a problem?

Use a relay or a a transistor if the current rating is too low.

An alternative to a reed switch is a hall effect sensor but you will need to use a transistor to increase the current capacity but it has the advantage of being solid state which means it won't wear out like a mechanical switch will.

I agree to a point Hero. I see it that the original poster has several (no clue how many) hatches on compartments of a boat. When any individual hatch is opened he wants a light to come on and illuminate the contents. There is no limit to transistor, relay and hall effect combinations available. However, whatever is built would need to be built for each hatch compartment. I just figured a simple off the shelf switch (sensor) solution was the most viable and simple. Considering time and cost. Now if the OP wants to build a driver system for each lamp then the possibilities really grow.

Also, I have no clue how much light the OP wants? Figure 12 volt power.

Ron
 
I forgot to say it is a Bass Boat. I have 10 compartments! 2 are rod lockers. 3 are tackle storage. 2 are live wells. 2 are battery compartment.1 is glove box, I will keep a Perko light there. I have a simple auto bulb in each compartment at present. I want to go LED's strips! 12 volt max amp on 27 or 32 inch strip will be around .6 amps. Still 12V.
I like the micro switches but don't know how well they will hold up. The reed also is promising! Boat will not be on water all the time. But storage out side!With a custom cover, but still oxidization! Only the battery compartment, that really gets wet. The over compartment have a raised lip, but will still get some water in. I was also thinking if fishing and raining. Having to get into lockers. I fish at night that is the reason for switches. Now I turn one switch and it lights every compartment!Like I said the used the smallest and cheapest bulbs they could most are Perko lights with a 192 bulb. Low out put, I just would like to be able to see, and find what I'm looking for! And Not Turn on Ever Light. I even plan to install some small LEDs on deck in red,or may use soft white. To light deck and seating area. These will be on a switch, on console.
I should also state that lids open to about 45degs, except Live Wells and Battery Area. They go a good 90 Degs.

Thank You For Your Time!!! I Would Appreciate Any More Help on This.....

I forgot the ice box that is built into boat That is Ten!

Thank You Again Davey Crockett Sr
 
Last edited:
Off the wall thinking re waterproof. What about float level switches, would they be too bulky? They'll certainly be waterproof.
 
A reed switch does sound like a good option. You don't have to be as precise as you would have to be with a microswitch. Another benefit being it's a boat on water, any wave, bump, sudden acceleration or deceleration is bound to inadvertently trigger the ball or mercury switches.
 
Off the wall thinking re waterproof. What about float level switches, would they be too bulky? They'll certainly be waterproof.

They are about 5 to 6 inches wide and the same length long. Would be very hard, to use!The float level switches I'm thinking about are hooked up to my bilge pumps!
Thank You for the thought and idea.....

I Appreciate All Help...........

Thank You David Crockett Sr.
 
Last edited:
If you go the reed switch you may want to think a NC reed switch as they come in NO and NC flavors. Hatch down, magnet beside switch, switch is open. Open hatch, magnet moves away from switch, switch closed. Going the LED route as long as they give enough light is another good idea. Low current consumption that can be handled by a simple reed switch. Nothing to lose by experimenting with a few from Lowes or Home Depot.

Ron
 
I found out about the LED from this Company:**broken link removed** He sell the kits. And has Pictures to show what it will look like. I have tried to find some sort of switch that would make each locker independent! He states that there is no amps hardly at all. So This is how I'm going... Just wanted a switch that can handle water and temperature. He sales a water proof switch, but it would be a little high for me. Unless some knows where I can get them cheap.

Thank You For Ideas......... I Appreciate Your Answers and time

Thanks Davey Crockett Sr
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest threads

New Articles From Microcontroller Tips

Back
Top