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I tried Newark and Parts Express and found nothing. A lot of the applications were related to music, guitars, and audio, so I searched ebay for "guitar switch" and got this:
**broken link removed**
Still a bit expensive, but its a start. Switches like that are/were also used in aircraft (e.g, flap switches), but they will be even more outrageously priced.
Hey thanks! yeah that price is A LOT better then paying $37 on a site for vintage organ stuff.. hell a empty half moon switch made of plastic is $69 and that's without a switch or anything!!
Now one other switch I noticed some have that spring on it and some don't have them, what's the spring for? To provide positive feedback?
The spring makes it momentary. That is, when you release, it returns to a preset (original) position. I did not see a spring in your example. If you remove the spring, it will not be momentary, but the feel of each detent may or may not be a little different.
I tried Newark and Parts Express and found nothing. A lot of the applications were related to music, guitars, and audio, so I searched ebay for "guitar switch" and got this:
**broken link removed**
Still a bit expensive, but its a start. Switches like that are/were also used in aircraft (e.g, flap switches), but they will be even more outrageously priced.
Crap I was looking at the switch in your 2nd link again before I order... it looks like a make before break switch.. if I look at the other CRL switches the contact point is much thinner..
As you can see here
**broken link removed** **broken link removed**
I was just wondering if that would cause issues with midi messages?
Don't have a schematic because it's a pre-bult board. **broken link removed**
If it does not work out I figure I can maybe trim the contact on the strip to be thinner.. Because each terminal lug sends a different CC number to the software so I have no clue what happens when they both make contact.
I wonder how these switches feel when switching, I assume no indent between different positions? I assume to make one I can make a little indent on the switch contact?
btw I found the switch local for $9 so that's great
Ah ok, I'm going to pick the switch up tomorrow and do some testing, I'm going to try and cut the contact a bit smaller so it wont short to two poles should work fine.
How are you trying to cut it? If it is copper or a copper alloy, it can be difficult to cut nicely.
I'd probably try the switch as is, then see of the make before break is a problem. For cutting, I would recommend more of a grinding/abrasive than a cutting point.
How are you trying to cut it? If it is copper or a copper alloy, it can be difficult to cut nicely.
I'd probably try the switch as is, then see of the make before break is a problem. For cutting, I would recommend more of a grinding/abrasive than a cutting point.
Be careful of the heat. I would use a non-fiber reinforced wheel (thinner). Then to control heat, as when cutting glass or ceramics, I cut through a small piece of wet sponge at the same time.
Since you are taking so little off, do you have a fine carbide cutter or diamond burr? At high speed, it won't grab on you (hopefully).
Be sure to burnish/smooth both top and bottom of the cut edges. Good luck and let us know how it works.
Be careful of the heat. I would use a non-fiber reinforced wheel (thinner). Then to control heat, as when cutting glass or ceramics, I cut through a small piece of wet sponge at the same time.
Since you are taking so little off, do you have a fine carbide cutter or diamond burr? At high speed, it won't grab on you (hopefully).
Be sure to burnish/smooth both top and bottom of the cut edges. Good luck and let us know how it works.
Just take it slow, like a dentist. Don't try to cut to final dimension. Just take successive tiny amounts off the edge.
Do you have one of those felt polishing wheels? That will remove the bur on the front easily. You may be able to remove the burr on both sides by just cutting into the felt wheel.
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