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What is this component ? (Hard Drive PCB)

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Hey guys, this component exploded like 5 years ago and I'd like to repair it haha

can I just use a jumper ?

View attachment 68346

It's probably either a SMD resistor, capacitor, or diode. And no, do not use a jumper. If you could use a jumper, they would have put one there in the first place. Everything on a PCB has a purpose.

Knowing the markings on it will help a lot.
 
Prior replacing anything that burnt be sure of why it was so.
 
I think it's a protective diode but I'm not sure. A similar thing is on my PBC and it's written "BUX C346". I seems the same because it's the same size and look.

The photo I uploaded is from a functionnal board, the component on mine is burnt/missing

I just want to recover the file and trash it
What can I do ?
 
We really need to know what's on that particular device. A lot of different components--diodes, resistors, capacitors--can be put in that exact same package, so telling us the markings on a part that looks similar is fairly useless. I'm afraid there's not really enough information to give you a straight answer.

Also keep in mind that if a part is burnt, chances are it's not the only broken piece. You might be better off just buying a new one :p
 
We really need to know what's on that particular device. Also keep in mind that if a part is burnt, chances are it's not the only broken piece. You might be better off just buying a new one :p

It's a Hard Drive (thread's title) and I can't buy a new one, I need the datas. On the contrary, I think it might be the only broken piece since it appears to be a protective diode connected on the psu port. But who knows

dougy83, thanks for the link man, I think I'll find my way with the link.

Just for the record, it's a Samsung 80G hdd, made in 2004.04. It's marked "REV A" but it seems they have many possible firmware and the only REV A I can find on ebay is not the same firmware #... I dunno if it would work. After all, the other part of the hard drive is more of a mechanical thing so I wonder if that card would fit, but there's maybe some kind of bootload code written on the harddrive that wouldn't match... I don't know harddrives ;(
 
If the power supply is stable and w/o spikes, you could probably just remove the TVS diode (as it will be shorting out your supply atm) and perhaps use the HDD again. Make a backup ASAP.
 
Data recovery firms may be able to get stuff off the drive.

If it's indeed a TVS diode, then there's a possibility the drive was subject to reverse or overvoltage.

A data recovery firm may be able to transplant the electronics.
 
it's a TVS diode. removing it may get the drive working again. it's there to protect the drive from overvoltage. it's like a zener, but has a much higher current capability. if it's shorted, it's probably why the drive is not working. i have repaired a few hard drives by replacing blown TVS diodes, and about 70% of the time, that's all that was wrong with the drive. remove it, and see if the drive works. if it works get as much data as you can moved off of it and once you have the data off of it, put the drive aside and don't use it until you get a new TVS diode for it.
 
How to get the right one?

it's a TVS diode. removing it may get the drive working again. it's there to protect the drive from overvoltage. it's like a zener, but has a much higher current capability. if it's shorted, it's probably why the drive is not working. i have repaired a few hard drives by replacing blown TVS diodes, and about 70% of the time, that's all that was wrong with the drive. remove it, and see if the drive works. if it works get as much data as you can moved off of it and once you have the data off of it, put the drive aside and don't use it until you get a new TVS diode for it.

How to obtain the right replacement, UJ?

Any rule of thumb or a way to do an educated guess?
 
it's a 12V TVS diode. the breakdown voltage is about 10% above the standoff voltage. the part numbers usually start with the impulse wattage (likely 600 watts for that size package). so for this one, a P6KE12 would be the correct replacement. you can do a search on mouser, digikey, or newark (also known as farnell in some parts of the world) for these diodes. you want the unidirectional type, as it will clamp reverse voltages at 0.7V
 
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Just wanted to add, Unclejed is spot on. I've had to remove/replace this diode in several HDD's, and its done the job. Ebay is full of prelacement hardrive PCB's, often *can* be expensive (because the seller knows the data on the drive might be almost priceless). Because I'm a cheapskate and a geek, I ended up buying a joblot of 'dead' harddrives purely for the parts.
 
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