tutorial: Toner Transfer PCB Fabrication with Press-n-Peel Blue

[evandude]

For anyone who's interested, I just overhauled my tutorial on toner transfer using Press-n-Peel blue, on my website.

https://eegeek.net/content/view/34/31/

Comments, criticism, suggestions, etc. are welcome!

 

[kchriste]

A very nice tutorial with a simple layout and easy to follow web page. I like it!

 

[AllVol]

my tutorial on toner transfer using Press-n-Peel blue,

Nice job, and a really nice finished board.

Could you briefly discuss the printing process, with tips for those who do not have a laser printer? I've read other threads, but for some reason cannot get the process clear in my feeble mind.

 

[evandude]

Well, you do HAVE to print with toner. A laser printer is of course the best option, though you could probably get by alright with a photocopier if you can find a place that will let you put paper with press-n-peel taped on through their copier Years back, I ended up buying a laser printer after jamming both of the copiers at a local copy shop with the photo paper I was using at the time

The actual printing process is just as I described, you simply print the pattern on a piece of regular paper, tape a piece of press-n-peel over the pattern on the printout (dull side up), and print again, feeding the paper back through in the same orientation so it prints in the same spot, this time onto the PnP.

I didn't take any pictures of the printing process this time, though I did dig an older picture up and add it to the tutorial.

 

[AllVol]

Thanks, pal. that's just about what I had concluded. I looked at copiers at the Post Office and Supermarket, and could just imagine asking them to let me do a circuit board pattern. I've wondered.... since a photocopier does not make physical contact as a printer does, would the light from a scanner be strong enough to transfer the image? Has anyone tried this?

Just curious, and thanks again.

 

[evandude]

I think you're confusing the toner transfer method with the photoresist method.

With toner transfer, you print out the pattern in toner, and iron to physically transfer the toner onto the board - this works because toner re-melts and sticks to the board. This is the method detailed in my tutorial.

The photoresist method is where you print out a pattern and then use it as a mask to expose a blank board with a photosensitive coating, which is then developed chemically to form the etch resist. Here you don't necessarily need a laser printer (though inkjet printers may not make the pattern opaque enough), and you just need transparency sheets, not transfer sheets. This method is quite different than toner transfer.

 

[AllVol]

I think you're confusing the toner transfer method with the photoresist method.

Okay, thanks for clearing that up. I did not realize there were two methods. No wonder I was confused. Do you have any experience with photoresist?

 

[evandude]

Okay, thanks for clearing that up. I did not realize there were two methods. No wonder I was confused. Do you have any experience with photoresist?

No, not personally. It's the most accurate method, but does require some equipment for exposure, chemical for developing, and buying presensitized PCB's which are more expensive. It's really a matter of personal preference; however, since this tutorial is about toner transfer, further details of the photoresist method are really not within the scope of this thread.

 

[AllVol]

however, since this tutorial is about toner transfer, further details of the photoresist method are really not within the scope of this thread.

I agree, and thanks for the info. I am to the point in following this hobby that I will need to be doing something soon. You certainly have been a big help, and have been most considerate in giving your time.

 

[tristanlee85]

Back when I developed home-made boards, I used the photo method. It was quite simple if you ask me. I just drew the layout and printed it to transparent paper. I would suggest a laser printer (toner) because I don't know how you'd get ink to stick to the transparent paper. After then, in a dark area, lay the trace on the photoresist board under a daylight fluorescent bulb.
**broken link removed**
After the trace has been "burnt" on to the board,, you etch the board just like in the tutorial above. I used Ferric Chloride only because, if I remember correctly, that's what was required for the photoresist proceedure.

 

[Hero999]

When I use the photo method I normally use tracing paper because the ink sticks to it fairly well and it doesn't fluroesce in the UV light.

 

[SPDCHK]

I used Positiv20 spray on a well cleaned PC board. The method of applying a layer of this stuff is described on here

The medium I used for printing the Circuit design on was a clear PVC type sheet, (used in overhead projectors at schools etc.) The stuff here in South Africa have different names than abroad, so I won’t even be able to begin and tell you what to use. The sheet had one side very smooth, but the other side's surface was course (something like the MATT finish of a photograph, if you know what I mean?)

I always printed on this course side. The tones seemed to melt itself into the sheet, opposed to the smooth side where it seemed to smear. Development was done using UV tubes. Exposed the circuit for about 90 seconds. The development of the board was always my biggest problem. You have to use a solution of Caustic Soda (NaOH) dissolved in water. If the solution was too strong, you destroyed the “negative” in seconds. Too weak, and it took ages, and nothing happened.

Once developed, I etched (and still use this method) the board with equal parts of H20 (Water) H2O2 (40% vol. peroxide) and HCL (Normal swimming pool acid). This takes about a minute vs. 20-30mins with FeCL. (Yes, I do obey the environmental rules etc.)

But, since I learned the transfer method with the Iron, it’s all I use. I now develop far better looking boards than I ever could with the photo-resist method.

My two cents worth.

 

[nsubra2001]

Evandude's website on Press-n-Peel

I have used the press-N-Peel and it comes out very nicely. You can add a couple of things to your website:
1. When you are ironing, the iron should be dry (no steam coming out)
2. If you enclose your circuit with a border all around, then you can conserve on the etchant also (just like you conserve on the press-n-peel by taping it on the printed circuit). For etching, take a syringe (the one you get with refill ink for inkjet printers)and cover the pcb with a thin layer. Allow it to react for about 20 minutes and then check the circuit. If the etchant has turned black and is not able to dissolve more copper, then drain the etchant from the pcb and inject a new layer of the solution on the pcb. It works out very eco-friendly and economical.