Trying to rewire entire car

[refn101]

Hello All,

I am new to this forum and do not really know anything about automotive electrical. I am working on a current project of a 1967 Lincoln Continental Sedan. My plan is to rewire the entire car. I would like to wire in some newer power seats, electric locks, electric windshield wipers, electric cooling fan, and a new, aftermarket, under dash AC/Heat unit. Please let me know if you can help and if you are in the DFW, TX area. Thank you in advanced.

Brian

 

[PLC Nut]

Hi Brian,

• To start with I would make a list (spread sheet) of everything electrical in the car (existing and future you may need). You will size your fuse board off of this.
• Take plenty of photos of all current connections and hold up hand written labels so you can remember what the photos are later
• Take note of what type of connectors are used because you will have to buy similar items later.
• Take note on your item list of the size of terminals on new electrical components too
• Add to you list of items what the ratings are for each component (Current, Volts, Watts etc). If you cannot see them any more then you will have to Google the parts.
• Find a schematic for an existing car that has similar electrical components and highlight every component on the drawing you would like to use. Schematics are in the back of most car repair manuals as you probably already know.
• Once you have the above sorted you are well organised because you can visit a local auto electrician and discuss wire sizes, wire colours, techniques of running cables to keep them protected and current draw etc.
• On your item list mark down what your auto electrician says (size cable, wire colour, conduit sizes and connection you need etc). This will help you buy in bulk and run the correct cable to the right place later.
• Run each cable one at a time and mark off on your schematic by putting a small dash "\" through the wire on the schematic drawing. This helps you keep track of which wires you have run. Make sure you leave heaps of length on each cable as you might have to slightly re-run them etc. If you want good looking terminations then I suggest leaving plenty of length at the fuse board
• Don't forget to label each cable at both ends with the same explanation. I usually put two wrapped pieces of tape around the wire 300mm apart as the first label always falls off somehow.
• When you have finished running all cables, your schematic should have heaps of "\" on it.
• Before termination you need to point to point test all cores, this is done using a multimeter on the ohm setting (lowest is best) and test each wire from end to end. Record each result on your item sheet. This will help with fault finding later.
• When you terminate each cable you put a "/" through the existing dash to make an "X" and to indicate you have double checked everything as you are doing it.

This is a basic systematic way of tackling this project, it's not perfect but it's a good start. People will be more willing to help you if your organised and you will save heaps of time. I don't live in the area but you can ask me any questions you like about this later.

Enjoy

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Since you know zero, be careful with "fuseable links" which your car might have. These are lower than normal sized sections of wire that will melt. They are typically located where they won't do much damage and in the engine compartment. I actually had an 82 Japanese car that had short lengths of wire with fast on terminals located in the engine fuse box.

I'm not sure what options you have for fusing, but the newer cars have multiple fuse box locations. Engine compartment, kick panels.

Here are some ideas: **broken link removed**

Grounding in older vehicles was kinda bad. Not a lot of separate returns.

 

[shortbus=]

From someone who has built a couple of hot rods, do your self a big favor and buy a wiring "kit" form one of the vendors in Street Rodder or other car magazines. They have the hard work already done, the wiring to the fuse block.Not to say the rest will be easy. And the wires will have 'circuit' names printed along the length of the wire, making any future proble shooting easier. The cost may seem high at first, but when you start figuring out the wire cost, terminal cost and availability of some of the necessary proprietary terminals, it is cheaper in the long run. And they have the correct automotive type wire, which is not the same as industrial wire like THHN.

https://ezwiring.com/
https://www.ronfrancis.com/

 

[refn101]

PLC Nut and KeepItSimpleStupid, thank you for the help. I am going to be using a prewired fuse box and wiring kit from Painless Performance. It has every circuit I need plus a few extras that I won't be using because the car is not equipped with those particular components. I also did buy a Weather Pack connector kit to change out every connector and make them more weatherproof. I have the wiring schematics for the car as it sits now. Unfortunately I am going to be using various electrical components from different Lincoln models and years for what I want to come up with. I will use the seats out of a newer Lincoln Continental; the window switches, power door locks, and windshield wiper motor out of a newer Lincoln Town Car; the electric cooling fan out of a Lincoln Mark 8. So this car is going to kind of be a frankenstein but I want to make it look professional when I am done. All help will be needed. Thank you in advanced.

Brian

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

I recently had to troubleshoot a harness, but it wasn't the harness at all. I had to repair it when I was done and I used self-fusing electrical tape. Expensive stuff, like $30 a roll. In general, the car wrapped stuff tightly in certain places like between the door columns.

See if a small engine compartment box is suitable for you. That line with the relays and fuses I linked too could possibly be used for your fan and low/high beams and even the front lights. You can also decide to fuse the low and high beams separately (4 fuses) unless your planning an HID upgrade. Consider LED lighting upgrades too.

The warning about the fusable link is a real one. It's sometimes found on the alternator output and there should be one right off the battery. Only use stranded wire and probably nothing less than 16 AWG.

Consider the stereo system too.

And just because I like to come up with off the wall ideas, there is always the idea of creating your own BCM or Body Control module which could handle things like power windows, seats and some lighting.

 

[refn101]

KeepItSimpleStupid, I have pretty much a blank canvas and can do whatever I want. I just need someone who might be able to come help me because I am a visual learner.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

KISS works. I'm a little too far away to come help. I saw some harnesses being layed out at HP/Agilent and this https://assets.hemmings.com/story_image/315171-1000-0.jpg?rev=2 sort of technique works.

It might still work for you, if you can come up with some fixed points to measure from. Leaving one end unterminated might be harder to deal with in the long run, but might be the way to go. Wire markers will help, but don't expect them to stay on forever. e.g. **broken link removed**

Another thing to remember is "drip loops". See: https://electrical.about.com/od/electricalbasics/f/driploopoutdoor.htm
Basically you don't want water traveling along the wire and into the connector. This is important everywhere. e.g. firewall penetrations, sensors etc.

 

[Rave0035]

Good advice so far. I've been restoring an old Swedish car for the last few years... a few things I'd add to this thread:

- Creating an entire from-scratch harness is not a weekend project, nor is it for the uninitiated. I am not trying to dissuade you from doing this - but I would take a step back and consider your goals and truly assess your abilities going in. If you've got nothing but time on your hands and have a good handle on how to troubleshoot a 12v system, then take the plunge. Otherwise, consider buying a pre-made option, as shortbus suggested. Likely, someone has a pre-made harness for your car with a few added circuits for extras like a fan and seats. It's still a hell of an undertaking.
- Good grounds are crucially important in an auto system. Make sure you're taking plenty of time to make good, clean ground connections whenever possible. Add a ground strap from the neg. terminal of the battery directly to the chassis, if one doesn't exist already (I'm assuming it's a neg ground system).
- Adding power locks and windshield wipers etc is likely to come with some fabrication unless a drop-in option exists. Is this something you're equipped to do?
- 1967... I'm assuming this car has an alternator, and not a generator?

Not trying to be a negative Nancy, but be realistic going into this. What you've described is a big project.

Good luck, and post photos!
Mike

 

[refn101]

I am not creating it completely from scratch. I do have a pre-made with a fuse box from Painless Performance. I still don't know wether or not I am going to do this myself with someones help or pay someone to do this for me. I have plenty of coworkers who have electrical engineering degrees who I can ask. Adding the power locks and wiper motor will not be too hard since there is a system in place. I am just updating to electrical for both systems. Yes, the car is on a 12v system with an alternator. It will be a big project but I am being realistic with it. I will get photos once I begin on the project.

 

[JMW]

Any Pix? I would suggest you get a factory service manual. This is a high end car, there will be a passel of gadgets, and many harnesses. Have you got a mentor near by who can assist? I recall a police department who got a Vietnam era Huey for a buck. A department, FAA certified mechanic decided he was going to "rewire" the ship. To make a long story short, it cost the county several thousand to have the thing carted away. Before starting this, I would verify what works and what doesn't work. This includes the lights. Granted there is no computer, but just rewiring the rear lights and having them work properly will be an accomplishment. Crimp on connectors are nice, but you must do several hundred successfully before starting this. Purchase only high end components and ratchet style crimpers. To quote Dr Charlie Wang "while it is possible to make a poor connection using good tools, it is impossible to make a good connection using poor ones." Some of the connector locations are going to be difficult, inside door panels, behind the dash board etc. These are the ones that will give you trouble, if not done properly, they can leave you low and wet. (Nothing electrical fails when high and dry. Me) Quite frankly I would pick up a Cavalier or Citation, and try rewiring that for practice.
Keep us informed.