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Triggering an IR receiver from a white object/paint

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Mr R.B. I'm not sure what you mean, but here is my problem:

I'm still struggling, because the switch get triggered erratically at some times. So I thought of trying the OPB365T. I quote this from another site:


Originally Posted by 2xCPU View Post
Use the same circuit as you've used for the OBP608, but alter the pinout as below.


Pin equivalents
OPB365T........OPB608A......(Function)
....1................3................Anode
....2................4................Cathode
....3................1................Collector
....4................2................Emitter

**broken link removed**

**broken link removed**


I am not really sure what wire should go to what pin. Is it possible to number them for me next to the sensor? (Does it start right top with nr 1 and then clockwise to nr 4 next to 1?) Remember James changed the numbering on the diagram

Thanks
Albie
 
When I said "read the posts" I was referring to both mine and duffys post, we both basically said your sensor seems to be working fine and you need to start looking at the PC side, ie how fast is the mouse click in the windows setup etc.

Your first sensor voltages were good, meaning the sensor worked. The problem was elsewhere. Changing to a new sensor is not likely to fix the real problem.
 
Thanks for your comments. I will try to answer what I have done and have tried most of your comments.

I have a Intel Pentium Dual CPU; 1.80 GHz and 1 GB of RAM. I use Windows XP SP 2.

I try to capture at 3 fps.(The projector has a gear at the back that can change the speed- so the actual pull is from the back)

I could not find a "trimpot" at our closest electronic shop and replaced R2 with 100k; R1 as mentioned with 68 Ohm. If I remove R2 and connect the 2 wires, it does not trigger the switch, but with the 100k resistor it does.

I have set the double click speed to "slow" when Duffy suggested it.

Distance from an object: it only gets triggered approximately 1mm from the receiver. If I bring it close to the stationary blade, it triggers/captures. It does not trigger the switch even very close to the rotating blade.

It gets easily triggered by the silver carton less than a mm from the receiver. I capture every frame up to approximately 2000 frames, then it becomes erratic and will only capture say every 5th frame. (James stated the same problem- called it the mouse goes to sleep- he installed a switch between the mouse and the USB port )

My problem therefore is that it starts off well and then starts to capture erratically. (One can see with the mouse pointer how it clicks on the "capture" button.)

I just need to mention that the quality of the captured frames are excellent.

(As the shop is a distance from me, I decided to buy the interrupter at the same time, as the price was only app 4 USD.)

Thanks for your interest in my project and your comments

Regards
Albie
(I stayed in Melbourne from 1997-1999)
 
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I think your hardware might be ok. Everything you describe seems to point to PC software issues. If could be the mouse driver going into a changed mode or it could be the buffering/caching of the large images after you get too many in a row.

I'm still not convinced that messing with the hardware detector is going to fix all your problems.
 
Same here. I don't think this is your hardware anymore, I think this is an issue with the PC.
 
Thanks for the feedback Mr RB and Duffy.

I just want to quote what James Rueben wrote on Videohelp:

Before doing this I just want to check something. Did you fit a switch which I showed as SW2 in my posting back in my posting on page 4 of this topic dated 10 05 09? Have you tried with this switch (or the original left mouse button in the modified mouse if it's still there) to see if it will trigger Cinecap. I found the modified mouse goes to sleep after a while and needs to be unplugged from the USB and plugged back in again to wake it up.

**broken link removed**

I just thought I might just as well try the opto interrupter, there's nothing to lose. I know you are convinced that it is my PC, but trying might just convince me.

So, is it possible to help me with the wiring (what number to what pin)?

Thanks
Albie
 
The clear one is the LED, the black one is the phototransistor.

Is one of the leads longer than the other 3? That will be the cathode of the LED (pin 4).
 
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