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Tractor Electronic Ignition

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wuchy143

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Hi All,

I'd like to put an electronic ignition in my tractor. Does anyone know how you would go about doing this to find the correct ignition for my tractor? I'm not looking for the actual part...I just would like to know the general process so I could do it all myself. I know nothing about ignitions so any help would be much appreciated.


Thanks!

-mike
 
Can you give a little more information about the motor? Is it a single or twin cylinder gasoline? If twin, what is the firing arrangement? Do you have a 12V battery on board? I am assuming it is either a magneto ignition or a small Kettering with points. Unless, of course, it is a very old Ford 9N or similar gasoline tractor. Any information would be helpful to avoid leading you in the wrong direction.

John
 
I agree. There are lots of meanings to the word "tractor".

A word to the wise. I may be converting a single cylinder Tecumseh engine to electronic ignition and I am aware that the timing can change with some retrofits. Tecumseh had different inserts for the flywheel based on standard or electronic ignition to alter the timing. I did convert a 1965 6-cylinder Ford car to an opto-electronic ignition many years ago. The side effect was I had to upgrade the plug wires. With the other mods to the engine, I managed 18 miles per gallon city.
 
Hi keep it simple, heres an option for your Tech engine asuming it uses magneto type ignition. You remove the points & condencer & wire this across the coil. If the coil is mounted outside the flywheel then the module is wired in rev polarity. This works fine as a points replacement. Its actualy the circuit for an Atom Ign module thats not been produced since 2005. Daryl
 

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I have one of these Stens 440-465 Universal Stens 440-465 which is probably the circuit your describing. Thanks for the circuit.

More importantly, though I have the pointless coil, timing changer and standoffs to hopefully make the conversion. I also have a flywheel with teeth to play with and a 120 V starter. All set, except for time and temperature. Must work outside.
 
Looks very simmilar to these, These were the ones i rev engineered.
 

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  • ATOM IGN 3.JPG
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Thanks for all the replies and tips. Much appreciated. Looks like this is a little more complicated than I assumed.(seems doable though) I figured that the starters might have been more standard but it makes sense to have a few different styles for different tractors. That said I have not received the tractor yet and am not sure on the make and model. It's being given to me by a friend. I will try and get a hold of him and get more info. Sorry to be so vague I was just excited to start working on it...cart before the horse? perhaps :)

From what you guys have said I can at least start researching the different ignitions. So, there are two styles it looks like 1. Magneto and 2. Kettering with points. When I get more info on the tractor and do some research myself I will probably get back on here and talk more shop. Again thanks guys.

-mike
 
So, this is a big lawn mower and not a "tractor" that's used to plow the fields and has a conventional automotive engine. And it doesn't have a two foot brakes (one for each wheel) and a clutch? That describes my grandfather's tractor.

Debe. Nice work.

What do you think is a better way. Use the OEM type ignition (pretty sure it will work) or use the transistorized gizmo?

I replaced the electronic ignition coil on a nice self propelled Toro, now MTD, that I got for free because of spark plug wire flexing. I have to get the wheels from a "local shop", 40 miles away because some aftermarket company is making the NLA (No Longer Available) wheels. The drive wheels have to be replaced every few years.

The Tecumseh I want to retrofit is a 35+ year old snowblower. Tracking down a Hypro key was very difficult. Ther are Woodroof, Hypro and Non-rok keys. Very similar keys. Even the hardware store had the wrong labels on the keys.

What I might need is someone to make custom drive wheels. They are precisely machined and held on by a odd size split pin.
 
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If the original Ign system is ok stick with it, but if you have trouble with the points or they are nolonger avalable then use this module in place of the points. Daryl
 
The engine takes quite a few pulls to start in the winter even when the carb is initially sprayed with carb cleaner (A better "starting fluid"), so I expect ignition problems.
 
Two things that will help
1. make sure there is no rust on the flywheel magnets or coil laminations.
2. make sure the magnet to coil gap is correct.
 
The last time I did major repairs, I did check that. Your right, it's a common problem.
I have not had the flywheel off, so I don't even know the condition of the points/condenser.

I also have to put a new throttle adjust on because the lever snapped. The newer one is an extremely short lenght (2") of throttle cable that has a 3/4" loop for your finger. The old one is just a lever. I rebuilt the carb a couple of years back. Constant leaking. I fabricated a new bracket for gas tank at that time too. The biggest issue was a finding a Hypro key for the drive. I also had to find an oilite bearing. The bearing caused the key to break.

Basically, the blower seems to be a very relaible design and it was a freebe, but it's 35+ years old. It's missing solid state ignition, compression release and electric start. Once I get it running, it runs like a champ. The tread on the tires is almost totally worn, but the tires have snow chains. Tecumseh is out of business, but some parts are still being made.
 
What's the general difference between the components used in the different colored modules? Timing cap? Voltage dividers? Both?
 
Havent pursued that part, maybe next project. The circuit i posted is the red module, & it advances the timing 3deg more than the points timing. This has not been a problem with the outboards iv used it on (Seagull. Tohatsu. TAS ). pics of the orig instructions.
 

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  • Atom IGN.JPG
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  • Atom IGN2.JPG
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