TOSHIBA with no vertical drive. M-27AF61 C-TAC0115

[mramos1]

I have a CRT TV I would like to get back in service. My son had it and would tap it and get the vertical to come back on. Figured a bad solder joint. Now it does not come on with his tap, so I have it. Hoping to fix it and use it. Anyone know where the horizontal and vertical output is on the board? Would like to tack all the pads first. Model and Chassis are in the title. I know we have a lot of TV guys on here, Nigel in there too. Thanks for any direction. Mike

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Almost certainly it was just dry joints on the frame output IC, but if left unrepaired it often kills the chip.

 

[mramos1]

I am going to bet on the dead chip now. Can you tell me the area to check. There are connectors on the yolk board. I will check them. Is the chip hard to get now? I look at the anode wire and hate working on TVs. But it is a nice set.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

I am going to bet on the dead chip now. Can you tell me the area to check. There are connectors on the yolk board. I will check them. Is the chip hard to get now? I look at the anode wire and hate working on TVs. But it is a nice set.

Follow the scan coil leads back from the yoke, the frame IC should be mounted on a heatsink near where it connects.

 

[mramos1]

This look like the chip. I can hook the scope on it and see what I get if so. I hate that flyback being right there.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

No, that's the line output transistor - the frame scan coil wires are the right hand two wires on the connector, and presumably go off towards the right, where it's off the picture.

 

[mramos1]

Both sets of wires go to a board on the yoke/crt. Here is the board. Hope it is a part on there rather the main board. It is a lot easier to get to. Thanks for the help Nigel.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

The frame IC will be on the main board, but to the right of the original section you posted.

 

[mramos1]

Here is a shot from the back, the connector is lower left. I see 3 heatsinks to the right front. What time is it over there. 8AM here.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

You see the green and yellow wires on the scan coil plug, follow the rracks underneath to see where they go - I suspect the frame IC is the one on the heatsink to the left of the tuner.

BTW - just gone 1:30PM here.

 

[mramos1]

It has been many years since I have working on a TV (tube types). Any clever way to discharge the anode wire so I can remove it. I recall in the old days the CRTs would stay charge for a very long time. Looks like a couple screws and I can pull and plastic slide rail out and start tracing the green and yellow.

 

[Chippie]

It has been many years since I have working on a TV (tube types). Any clever way to discharge the anode wire so I can remove it. I recall in the old days the CRTs would stay charge for a very long time.

Take a well insulated screwdriver, attach a wire to it ( just twist around the shaft) attach the other end to a crocodile clip and then clip the croc clip to the spring that is touching the Aquadag coating on the glass of the crt....Slide the blade of the driver up underneath the eht flower......That should discharge the tube's capacitance...

Keep one hand in your pocket should prevent you getting any shock.......

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

It has been many years since I have working on a TV (tube types). Any clever way to discharge the anode wire so I can remove it. I recall in the old days the CRTs would stay charge for a very long time. Looks like a couple screws and I can pull and plastic slide rail out and start tracing the green and yellow.

Can't you get to the bottom of the board without removing the anode cap?.

You're 'supposed' to discharge a CRT through a suitable resistor - but I've always just used two screwdrivers, as do every engineer I know. It wouldn't be any fun without the crack and the sparks

 

[mramos1]

Can't you get to the bottom of the board without removing the anode cap?.

You're 'supposed' to discharge a CRT through a suitable resistor - but I've always just used two screwdrivers, as do every engineer I know. It wouldn't be any fun without the crack and the sparks

Probably can, just the anode makes me nervous. Will get it a shot (not shock I hope).

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Probably can, just the anode makes me nervous. Will get it a shot (not shock I hope).

You can't get a shock from it without poking under the cap - leave it alone and it won't hurt you.