Toner Transfer vs Photoresist

[alphaai]

Hello,

I just bought some of the Pulsar Toner Transfer Paper, TRF Green and TRF White and I thought it was a lil pricey. How much can one save by doing photoresist instead.

On the website of Pulsar, it mentioned that I could use the TRF Green layer that I have peeled off for photoresist. So it seems like I should have both Toner Transfer and Photoresist method. When would I use one over the other.

Which is more economical in the long run for lots of duplicate boards?
and Which is more economical for one off boards?

I was interested in using the silkscreen white TRF which I have not seen anyone do as yet for DIY.

I found this link
dont know if many of you have seen it but I was impressed by the quality.

I dont think the price I paid for was too bad.
TTP 10 sheets each pack for $15.95
TRF White 9.50 pack
TRF Greeb 9.50 pack

shipping about 7.80 to me. Bought it here in Australia.

Cheers,

Ben

 

[3v0]

Use the DIY method for prototyping. For more then one board I suggest using a board house.

Photo resist is more expensive then toner transfer where the pulsar supplies are only a few cents per sq inch. Less if you use found paper. Lots of people we photo resist and love it.

The TRF green goes on dull side to the toner. Use a laminator.

 

[mvs sarma]

the instructions of M/s Ultrakeet are very exhaustive. Nice document and thanks to Alphaai.

 

[Gobbledok]

You can also get good results by using glossy photo paper instead of toner transfer paper. The glossier and smoother the better. Also a lot cheaper.

 

[alphaai]

Gobbledok,

So I can use glossy photo paper instead of toner transfer paper, what about the white TRF? what can I use instead to create the silkscreen?

Thanks,

Ben

 

[Gobbledok]

Gobbledok,

So I can use glossy photo paper instead of toner transfer paper, what about the white TRF? what can I use instead to create the silkscreen?

Thanks,

Ben

I haven't found a substitute for TRF yet so that may be your only choice. Looking at your link, it is worth the extra money.

 

[3v0]

The cost of TTP is less then 2 cents per square inch.

$1.50sheet/(8*11) = $0.0177
​

As long as I can get it I will use it. Your choice.

 

[Gobbledok]

Over here Jaycar sells Press N Peel for $35 for 5 x A4 sheets.

Glossy photo paper is about $5 for 20 sheets and produces pretty much the same results.

Quite a substantial saving.

 

[3v0]

You can get the pulsar TTF for $18 from ultrakeet. That is two cents a square inch. And you can use it for doing the graphics.

 

[UltraKeet]

Pulsar TTS/TRF

Hey Guys,

Ahmad here from UltraKeet; thanks for your feedback! If moderators permit, I'd like to throw in my two cents regarding PulsarProFX's TTS/TRF vs Press'n'Peel vs Photo-Resist vs Photo Paper battle.

Just to clarify, we use both PulsarProFX and PhotoFab methods for proto-runs, depending on the amount of boards required. I have however tried all the methods below, and I've put together a few lists to help you decide which method is best suited to your needs:

Price, cheapest method to most expensive:

1. HP Everyday photo Paper + blank FR4 PCB
2. Pulsar TTS + TRF + blank FR4 PCB
3. Press'n'Peel Blue + blank FR4 PCB
4. Photofab + Kinsten FR4 PCB

​

There's no denying it, photopaper is by far the cheapest and has a reasonably good yield. This is probably the best option to make through-hole boards on-the-cheap.

Output quality (trace width), ordered best to worst:

1. Pulsar TTS + TRF + blank FR4 PCB
2. Photofab + Kinsten FR4 PCB
3. HP Everyday photo Paper + blank FR4 PCB
4. Press'n'Peel Blue + blank FR4 PCB

​

The Pulsar and Photofab methods are extremely close here. The Pulsar method is able to produce finer traces (easily 8mil spacing/8mil width), photofab using cheap equipment causes the same traces to bleed into eachother and short during exposure.

It's important to note that we're talking overhead transparency and cheap UV exposure box for the photofab method, not expensive specialty UV blocking transfer films. Photofab using specialized films would win against all methods hands-down!

Repeatability, ordered best to worst:

1. Photofab + Kinsten/resist FR4 PCB
2. Pulsar TTS + TRF + blank FR4 PCB
3. HP Everyday photo Paper + blank FR4 PCB
4. Press'n'Peel Blue + blank FR4 PCB

​

Photofab wins for repeatability - Plain and simple, there's much less that can go wrong. Your 'master' artwork is printed once, and is used to expose several boards prior to etching

With Pulsar/PnP/PhotoPaper and other toner transfer methods, there's a chance artwork may come out differently at each printout (toner porosity, glitches, dirt on your OPC, fuser issues, etc) - In addition to this, something can also go wrong during the thermal transfer process, leading to partial/pitted transfers

The above issues happen rarely, but they do happen, and it's worth taking them into account. Think of the expenses incurred using PhotoFab as insurance against screw-ups (but also bear in mind that screw-ups will be far more expensive!)


Here are a few images of PCBs produced with TTS + TRF:

• Testing some new flexible PCB (0.18mm 1oz FR4)
• **broken link removed**
• **broken link removed**

​

...And a quick video made for a few customers, regarding laminator modification. It contains a quick toner transfer demo using TTS: Youtube link

Hope this helps. If you have any questions, ask us! It's worth mentioning that we also have a satisfaction guarantee on all PulsarProFX gear. If you're not happy with it, we will refund your full purchase price AND the cost of mailing the gear back to us; no bs