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TEST BOARD ideas? suggestions

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MrDEB

Well-Known Member
be80be (Burt) got me going to build a test circuit as a companion for my little Juneybug (I really like the versatility of this great unit)
I am planning on using the 8 pin CON 8 port.
plan on using the 18F1320 to start (still a newbie and waiting for my PRO badge from Burt-LOL)
RA1 & RA2 are to be taken off as Junebug already has pots.
basically just LEDs (thought about bi-colored so LOW and HIGH ports are indicated)
Junebug has pots on RA1 & RA3
buttons on RB0, RB2 & 5
the port has 5+, RA1, RA2, RA3, RA4, RB1, RB4, GRD
plan to add a transistor and run a connection from CON9 (RB3, 5+, grd) for speaker.
using the schematic that Burt has posted as a starting point.
LED display ?
An LDR or Cds?
suggestions welcome
 

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DirtyLude

Well-Known Member
No experience with the Junebug and I hope I understand what you are trying to do, but in my experience it's better to make multiple test boards with specific items on them rather than one large with everything on it.

Later you might have a project that has a set of buttons with a resistor ladder, and an LCD, and, say an I2C temp sensor. You can then assemble all these separate boards together and not have to deal with all the extra stuff on your test boards that you don't need, like LEDs and pots. Testing ideas for final projects becomes as easy as just collecting up the 'modules' you need for that project, and adding any extra, if you don't already have them.
 

3v0

Coop Build Coordinator
Forum Supporter
I have to agree with Mark.

One of the great things about making your own PCBs is that you can create a unique board for each design. In time you will be more comfortable with making a PCB the point to point or cobbling something up on a solderless BB.

3v0
 

be80be

Well-Known Member
I have to agree with Mark and 3v0 make modules

I was thinking about adding a serial lcd to it. The reason I added the to pots was I don't
use just the tutor on the junebug I have boards i made for my chips and I use a lot of them 12f675,12f683,16f84a,16f628a,16f684,16f88,16f690,16f876,16f877a,18f1220,18f1230,
18f452,18f2550,18f4450,18f4550 so for me I not to worried about using it with the junebug I use boards like this

I make it so I can use all the pins how ever I want. You could use that with with the junebug my ideal was with a 12f683 I like sending data to the 8 leds helps to get a handle on what the chip is thinking LOL. I would make a board that has a LCD on
it for the junbug which I have a serial lcd with a backpack that makes it serial it's ok
a little slow. I would make one with keypad and Lcd. hope this helps Burt.
 
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Nigel Goodwin

Super Moderator
Most Helpful Member
I agree, which is why my tutorial bords are modular - I put a LOT of effort into designing the original format, and settled on a ten pin connector for each port (which includes the power rails).
 

DirtyLude

Well-Known Member
Making up dedicated headers means you are dictating what pins will be connected to the peripheral. What if you have an I2C temp sensor? It takes up only 2 pins, but now you have a 9 pin or 10 pin header that's dedicated just to it. What if you have other I2C devices you want connected to the same pins? It's just not flexible enough.

Just make single row headers, connect them to a breadboard, and you can jumper them however you want.

I might try to gather up all the little modules I've made up in the last couple years.
 

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3v0

Coop Build Coordinator
Forum Supporter
I built some of Nigel's modules but used 2x5 headers. A ribbon cable with several female headers connected the boards much like a bus. One cable for each port.

They were sized to slide into the slots on a Radio Shack project box. It morphed into a robot.

3v0
 
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