Temperature controlled soldering iron

[HiTech]

Somehow those two words, cowboy and Derbyshire used in the same sentence seems very odd. So, what does the UK call their equivalent of a cowboy? (and don't say Tony Blair!) I can't envision a rough and tumble cowboy holstering a six shooter, wearing a 5-gallon hat, boots and spurs, strutting up to a saloon's bar, asking for a double shot of whiskey... all while saying it in the Queen's proper and tipping his hat! Then again, Hollywood recently gave us Brokeback Mountain!

 

[cyb0rg777]

Hope I'm not interupting.

If you put a diode in series with one of the leads it will cut the power in half .That way if you set your iron down for a long time it stays hot but doesn't burn up.You can use a light switch to toggle between half and full power.

O.K. you may continue your discussion.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Hope I'm not interupting.

If you put a diode in series with one of the leads it will cut the power in half .That way if you set your iron down for a long time it stays hot but doesn't burn up.You can use a light switch to toggle between half and full power.

That was a common technique back in the 60's, often using a microswitch triggered by the soldering irons stand - so when you take it off the stand you get full power.

Personally I've never used it, because you have to wait for it to warm up everytime you pick the iron up.

Come on, this is the 21st century - just get a proper temperature controlled iron!.

 

[fingaz]

And to think, i only wanted to build a temp controlled iron just to see if i could. . . what problems i seem to cause. . .

BTW we still call 'em cowboys round these parts, they just don't yee-haw properly LOL

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

And to think, i only wanted to build a temp controlled iron just to see if i could. . . what problems i seem to cause. . .

Except it wasn't temperature controlled - it simply reduced the power to the element, probably making it to cool to solder with.

BTW we still call 'em cowboys round these parts, they just don't yee-haw properly LOL

Not round my parts of Derbyshire (Derbyshire Dales, where the cows are!), what part are you in?.

 

[fingaz]

Not round my parts of Derbyshire (Derbyshire Dales, where the cows are!), what part are you in?.

Near Alfreton. . . (we have cows here too!)

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Near Alfreton. . . (we have cows here too!)

We're pretty close then!, I live 4.8 miles north of Alfreton (in a straight line, according to Autoroute).

 

[fingaz]

Hey, that's not far. . . I used to live up that way. . . lived in Pilsley for a while, Then North Wingfield, and in Chesterfield too. . . Guess I've gotten round abit

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Hey, that's not far. . . I used to live up that way. . . lived in Pilsley for a while, Then North Wingfield, and in Chesterfield too. . . Guess I've gotten round abit

Well I live in Lower Pilsley (between North Wingfield and Pilsley), so you weren't far away!. And before anyone asks, I don't know why it's called 'Lower', particularly as it's 'higher' then Pilsley.

 

[fingaz]

This is it!!

I found the circuit i originally saw, and it's posted here in case any other newbies fancy giving it a go. I'll be building this soon to try it out.

 

[Sig239]

This is it!!

I found the circuit i originally saw, and it's posted here in case any other newbies fancy giving it a go. I'll be building this soon to try it out.

What are you going to use for R5? Do you have the "text"?

 

[fingaz]

Here's the text to go with the circuit.

including recommendations for R5

 

[awright]

One of the interresting and effective techniques used by Weller on its (I think) TC201 irons is a magnetically activated thermostat they call a magnetostat. The switch is activated by a magnet located just to the rear of the replaceable tip. The tip is purchased for a specific temperature and has a ferromagnetic slug that becomes non-magnetic (actually, paramagnetic) at the Curie temperature of the specific alloy of the slug. This allows the magnet to drop away and turn off the heater. So, it is sensing the temperature of the rear portion of the replaceable tip which is not perfect, but better than sensing the temperature of the heating element.

For years I got along fine with a poor man's homemade "temperature control" consisting of a fast-response, low-voltage iron (GE 6 volt, I believe) and a gravity-activated switch that switched to a lower voltage tap whenever the iron was hung on the hook. I don't recall having to wait noticeably for reheat upon picking up the iron. It's main virtue was saving the tip from oxidizing during idle periods or if I forgot to turn the iron off, but still having the iron almost ready for soldering. Could also use a thermostat or thermistor to sense when you hang up the iron.

awright