Telequipment Oscilloscope power cord

Hi, all. New to the site, looks good here.

I got a Telequipment D66 o-scope off eBay, and it didn't come with a power cord. This is one of those situations where Google is not my friend, because it wants to show me everything that I'm not looking for. The equipment side of this cable has three small prongs which are in line with each other. It's about 1/2" tall, and has a key on (facing the plug) the right side. Does that sound like a standard that anybody's familiar with? It's hopefully not some proprietary design.

You need to take a photograph, or no one can help you. No word description you can give will suit, unless someone knows the EXACT style of power cord your device uses.

Well here's a copy of the manual for it:

**broken link removed**

But there's no picture of the back of the unit.

I was afraid that somebody would ask for a picture, I was hoping that somebody who owns one of these would find this first. Try these:

**broken link removed**

**broken link removed**

Just to clarify, the scale in the second one is in inches. My light source wasn't good enough to capture this in a photo, but there's a vertical bar between the left prong and the other two, so the face of the plug would not be flat but would have a slot. I was wrong about it having a keyed tab on the side, it has tabs on both sides, like a fat, inverted "T". But you can see that.

I'd open the unit up - and use the schematic on page 50 of that PDF Nigel provided to trace the L (Line?), N (Neutral?), and E (Earth/Ground) - and then get rid of the plug and replace it with something standard (IEC or something). Unless you are trying to preserve it for a museum or other (can't see how it would be worth anything - but you never know), altering it so that a standard cord will fit/work would be your best bet, especially since you now have the schematic.

I have the same connector on my Telequipment D75.

I have no idea where you would get a replacement, the connector probably does not meet current safety specifications.

Probably the best idea is to replace it, as suggested by Crush, but there does not appear to be much room for an IEC connector.
Unless of course you do away with the mains voltage selector plug/socket. (this could get messy!)

JimB

Thanks. With such little room, maybe it would be better to hard-wire a cord and get rid of the connector altogether? I first have to figure out whether to keep the thing or not. If there's no cord, than the eBay seller, a lot dealer with no electronics knowledge, can't have powered this up. The description implied that it was verified working, so I've got to resolve this dispute before I start cutting the case or soldering power leads.

Thanks for the manual, BTW. I was able to find manuals for nearby model numbers, but not the exact one, so that's a big help.

dementia13 said:

Thanks. With such little room, maybe it would be better to hard-wire a cord and get rid of the connector altogether? I first have to figure out whether to keep the thing or not. If there's no cord, than the eBay seller, a lot dealer with no electronics knowledge, can't have powered this up. The description implied that it was verified working, so I've got to resolve this dispute before I start cutting the case or soldering power leads.

Thanks for the manual, BTW. I was able to find manuals for nearby model numbers, but not the exact one, so that's a big help.

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I was going to suggest hardwiring the cord as well, if there isn't enough room for a different plug standard. Maybe the ebay seller had a cord?

But I agree with you not wanting to cut things apart without verifying operation; how about this idea (as a temporary measure only):

If I am understanding your description right - the cord has metal prongs that fit into sockets on the scope, right?

Go to a hardware or hobby store, and see if you can find some brass rod of the same diameter to fit the holes - then fit the rod into a hole, measure the depth, and add about 1/4-1/2 inch (or 1-2 cm - where ever you're at). Solder the rod pieces to the bare ends of a power cord (you may need to use a small butane torch for this - just tin/flux things well, clean things first, and use rosin-core solder), and put some pieces of shrink tubing over the connections, overlapping the rod and the insulation slightly on each end (you might want to color code these. Then fit the rod ends into the holes on the socket in the scope; make sure nothing touches the case, of course. Then plug it in and see what smokes.

If all goes well, then you know at least the scope works, and you can make a better decision what to do next. Maybe you could take a mold or something (measurements?) of the socket on the scope, and then make a "plug" around the end of the rod and wires using some kind of plastic resin or other material (perhaps sugru or shapelock?). Or - solder a cord on, of course...

The first thing I did was to ask the dealer if this was an oversight; he responded that the item was pictured without a cord. It would have been nice if the amount of effort he's made keeping communication with me since I brought this up had gone into presenting this item accurately in the first place. I like your suggestion of fashioning a power cord, I'll get cracking on that tomorrow.

Even if the seller had verified operation, he wouldn't know enough to verify whether it's really working correctly, so this could still be a repair project. I'm hoping this will work off the bat: it's a nicely-featured set, and it's in terrific cosmetic condition. I'm looking to build some audio processors and MIDI controllers, and this will be handy. I saw a page where a guy described overhauling this or a similar model by replacing all its capacitors, so I might do that regardless of its working state.

You can make up a power cord for your D66. We have one also without a power cord. Looking at the back of the unit, where the power cord plugs in, the pin on the left is the ground, the center pin is the hot pin or black wire of the 3 wire power cable, and the pin next to it towards the center of the unit is the white wire. We took some stak-ons like you would have to slip onto a speaker connetion and crimped them onto the new power cable. You will have to open them up a little bit to slide onto the D66 pins. Make sure they are a tight fit. It works very well providing you don't move the scope around much. Be sure you select the proper voltage using the jumper block.

rpsinger said:

You can make up a power cord for your D66. We have one also without a power cord. Looking at the back of the unit, where the power cord plugs in, the pin on the left is the ground, the center pin is the hot pin or black wire of the 3 wire power cable, and the pin next to it towards the center of the unit is the white wire. We took some stak-ons like you would have to slip onto a speaker connetion and crimped them onto the new power cable. You will have to open them up a little bit to slide onto the D66 pins. Make sure they are a tight fit. It works very well providing you don't move the scope around much. Be sure you select the proper voltage using the jumper block.

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The D66 I'm trying to give away comes complete with mains lead

The lead is certainly an obscure thing though!.