Suck or Blow?

[Moonman]

I'd like a device to clean the dust and debris from PCBs and internals of appliances; eg PC, VCR etc.

Is it best to use a compressed can that BLOWS?

Is it better to invest in a more expensive electric blower?

OR

Is it better to use a handheld vacuum cleaner that SUCKS up the dust and debris?

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

unfortunately, you may need both.

There is a micro cleaning attachment set available for shop vacs etc.
If your going to vacuum toner a lot use a vacuum with a HEPA filter.

It makes more sense to vacuum and not dust, but it isn't always possible.

Canned air is very useful. A compressor may spurt out oil unless it's a diaphragm compressor. If it has a tank, it might spurt out water.

You really want to contain the dust, not spread it about.

 

[augustinetez]

As above, you will need both.

My only extra advice is some small soft paint brushes to aid in dislodging dust from cracks and crevices and if at all possible, when blowing dust out of something - do it outside.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

A little humor: What sucks and blows at the same time?

Spoiler: Answer

A Fan

Edit: Added Spoiler

 

[gophert]

Use compressed air and 90% of the time, that is enough. If not, try vacuum.

 

[JimB]

I favour a vacuum and a brush.
Compressed air blows the dust all over the workshop.

JimB

 

[gophert]

I favour a vacuum and a brush.
Compressed air blows the dust all over the workshop.

JimB

Get a longer hose for the compressor and step outside.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

I favour a vacuum and a brush.
Compressed air blows the dust all over the workshop.

A vacuum cleaner and soft brush are the standard equipment for service departments, we never ever had a can of compressed air - you want to remove the dust, not spread it round.

 

[gophert]

A vacuum cleaner and soft brush are the standard equipment for service departments, we never ever had a can of compressed air - you want to remove the dust, not spread it round.

That's why you use a compressor and not a wimpy little can. Beside, the cans are a liquified compressed gas that makes surfaces cold and can cause condensation in the dust which makes the dust adhere more strongly.
The compressor will definitely spread the dust round - mostly into your neighbors yard.

 

[Moonman]

Anyone recommend a suitable vacuum cleaner?

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Anyone recommend a suitable vacuum cleaner?

Henry's are pretty decent - basically a motor on a bucket - they work well, and are exceptionally reliable (which is why many hotels and professional cleaners use them). They also have nice big bags and hold a lot.

Years back Vax were the one to go for (very similar to a Henry really), but they went bust a VERY long time ago - the new reborn Vax is a completely different company, and just reuses the old name.

 

[Moonman]

I've come to realise that using suction isn't quite enough in all cases.

Take this board; much of the dust doesn’t budge with suction but a cotton bud or rubbing it with my finger does.

Is there a small brush anyone can recommend to brush off 'hard' collected dust? Not to harsh to damage components but not too soft either.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Service engineers never use just a vacuum, they use a clean soft paint brush as well, a smallish nozzle (crevice tool?) on the vacuum is a good idea as well, as is having a small selection of different size paint brushes. For really stubborn dust, you can cut the bristles shorter on one of the brushes, this makes the bristles stronger and more 'aggressive'.

Slowly move the nozzle across the board, brushing as you go.

 

[killivolt]

Service engineers never use just a vacuum, they use a clean soft paint brush as well, a smallish nozzle (crevice tool?) on the vacuum is a good idea as well, as is having a small selection of different size paint brushes. For really stubborn dust, you can cut the bristles shorter on one of the brushes, this makes the bristles stronger and more 'aggressive'.

Slowly move the nozzle across the board, brushing as you go.

Both having worked in the Service Industry Electronics and Manufacturing. During Manufacturing it was required to wash the boards, RO or distilled water, leaving behind no residue of the soap, oddly Dawn Dishwashing soap diluted will function for the soak and pre-wash, afterward rinse properly in a bucket. I now obtain from a local market a gallons of distilled water, reasonably priced, most distilled will do from a local market, unless it demands more stringent PPM for laboratory purposes. After a good rinsing, blow off as much as you can, set it in the sun if you have it, or lightly dry with a blow dryer not a heat gun, to hot, may melt parts unknowingly. If things are stubborn a brush to aid in removal may be required.

I would obtain circuit boards from military installations around the country in various environments dust, oil dust combinations, some I couldn’t work on to repair after in the field, during manufacturing they were coated to protect from static electricity created by Jet Engines if the dew point permitted static promotion.

Otherwise, this was the general process before diagnoses afterward made it much easier to lift components needing replacement.

kv