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soldering troubles

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arod

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I am just starting to move from breadboard prototypes to stripboard. I have a cheap weller soldering iron and some solder that I picked up from Radio $hack. I have never been so frustrated in my life when trying to solder a 20 pin socket to this board. I put the solder on the pin and then touch the iron so that all 3 touch. For some reason, the solder just sticks to my iron and melts on it. Is there a more effective way of soldering? Could the problem be my cheap iron? Am I soldering completely wrong? Even when I succesfully solder one pin, it seems as if its close to impossible to solder the pins next to it without them shorting together. I have never been so frustrated.
 
You need go back to soldering 101. You heat the two points to be soldered together, then you apply the solder. If the joint doesn't form properly you're makeing bad contact with the parts to be soldered. It helps if you have a clean and well tinned soldering iron.
 
Hi,

What you should be doing is to touch the soldering iron to the joint to be soldered. This heats the joint, then apply the solder to the joint (not to the tip of the iron). The solder should flow around the joint, remove the solder wire, then the iron. The whole process should only take a few seconds.

Make sure your iron tip is clean and 'tinned'. also make sure the copper pad on the board is clean, you can clean this using wire wool (or use a pencil eraser) before you put the components through the hole.

If you find problems with the solder 'bridging' between the legs of the socket, you probably need a finer tip on your iron.
 
In addition to the above comments, make sure your solder has a rosin flux core and is the right size. Use nothing larger than 0.5mm dia solder for ICs.
 
Just to repeat what has been said:

fingaz said:
Make sure your iron tip is clean and 'tinned'. .

And again:

fingaz said:
Make sure your iron tip is clean and 'tinned'. .

Keep a damp sponge nearby and use it OFTEN to remove spent flux, etc. The tip should always be shiny bright when ready to use.
 
Last edited:
There was a soldering tutorial posted a couple of weeks ago, might search for it. Should make things clearer and easier, also teach how to take care of your iron, so you don't wear out the tip.
 
All the above is true.

I use a cheapo Radio Shack 15 watt iron and their solder. I also have a Radio Shack 30 watt that has a tip like a club. The 15 is better for fine work but I can solder IC sockets with the 30. I plan to get a temperature controlled iron but it is not a must till you start working with surface mount parts. In short what you should have should work, at least work better then you have described.

Since the introduction of lead free solder the job has become more difficult. A few months ago I discovered the joys of using a liquid flux pen. The flux allows the solder to flow and make the joint in a shorter time, with less heat. It is easier on the board and components. It looks like a fat marker and despenses liquid flux from the tip. With it I can do as good, maybe better, job of soldering then I did with lead solder. You still have to get the joint hot enough long enough to do the job. I have a Kester Flux Pen #2331-zx.


For now:

Clean the board prior to any soldering. Methods vary but it is important esp without the flux pen.

Keep the tip clean. Use sponge as above. If you do not have a sponge you can use a wet cotton rag till you get one.

Look at the tip and opt to add or remove solder prior to making each join. You need a small, tiny bit, of fresh liquid solder on the tip prior to touching the joint. This liquid solder transfers the heat from the iron to the joint. This is what tinning is about.

Do not attempt to add solder untill the joint is hot enough to flow solder. If you do, it will build up, when the joint get hot enough it will flow over everything.​

HTH
 
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