Solder wick not wicking

[Tipsy]

Anyone diagnose why I can't get solder to wick? It's infuriating being able to use a solder sucker to remove the majority only to be thwarted by the remnants.

I'm using an aged Weller PU-2D station but obtaining new tips is proving difficult as it uses magnetised base tips.

 

[3v0]

If the solder wick is oxidized it will not want to wick.

A bit of fresh solder on the joint will provide a bit of flux to help the solder wick.

Liquid flux is even better.

I have no experience with lead free solder.

 

[Hero999]

I suspect it's badly oxidised and needs cleaning with metal polish such as Brasso.

 

[crutschow]

Put a little rosin flux on the wick.

 

[Gobbledok]

Even put a bit of rosin cored solder onto the wick works for me.

 

[Tipsy]

Although it's no guarantee, I bought two reels recently so wouldn't expect it to be oxidised but how can you tell? It looks new and clean to me.

I have tried adding solder to joint and/or to the wick to get it started and it still doesn't flow - is that another tell-tale of oxidisation?

I'll try brasso and get some seperate flux to see if that makes a difference. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Hero999]

Perhaps your soldering iron isn't powerful enough?

The wick acts as a heat sink and will require more power to heat to the temperature required to melt the solder.

 

[Tipsy]

I was wondering that myself but can't figure out how to test that theory. I don't have any problem making solder connections in general.

It states on the station, it's for temperature controlled pencils. Opening it up, I see there's a component marked 400V-/220V MP 40/070/58 which I guess is the controller.

I've also got a butane powered iron that I tried at full heat but the result was the same.

 

[ericgibbs]

I was wondering that myself but can't figure out how to test that theory. I don't have any problem making solder connections in general.

It states on the station, it's for temperature controlled pencils. Opening it up, I see there's a component marked 400V-/220V MP 40/070/58 which I guess is the controller.

I've also got a butane powered iron that I tried at full heat but the result was the same.

hi tipsy,
Visit your local hardware shop and get some plumber solder paste and VERY lightly smear the wick and wipe off most of it.

Before the local 'experts' throw their hands up in horror saying its corrosive, I know that.!
It has to be to remove the surface tarnish from the wick so that the solder is wicked up.

Clean the desoldered area to remove any residue.

Its a method I have used for years with NO problems.

You can use the screen off old coaxial aerial cable as a wick using this method.

Lets know how it goes.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

At the odd times I've needed solder wick I've made my own - just strip the braiding from some TV coax cable and pull it through a tin of flux paste. Works far better than buying solder wick which always seems too lacking in flux, refluxing it would make it better as well.

 

[shortbus=]

Anyone diagnose why I can't get solder to wick? It's infuriating being able to use a solder sucker to remove the majority only to be thwarted by the remnants.

I'm using an aged Weller PU-2D station but obtaining new tips is proving difficult as it uses magnetised base tips.

You say you are using a Solder Sucker first, thats the problem. You will NEVER get the leads to look like they did when new. The solder is drawn into the surface of the part/lead by capillary action and the only way to remove all of the solder(silver look) is to remove a layer om metal by sanding or scraping.

I'll bet if you just use the solder wick on a joint before the solder sucker, the wick will work. Try it.

 

[Tipsy]

I've not had a problem using wick after solder sucker before but I agree, tinning will still remain.

I'll follow the advisories given later but I've since solved my problem by carefully using a mini-blowtorch, just so I could get the job done.

Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[Tipsy]

I bought some new tips and plumbers flux and judging by their performance reflowing micro connector legs, the result is obvious! I've yet to try them on the wick (that job is now done) but I suspect it'll be just as effective so thank you all for your advice and support.

The question now remains, should I remove any remaining flux as I assume it's corrosive? I've got a can of contact cleaner (almost empty) but what is the active ingredient required to clean electronics, as I assume I could buy it cheaper?

 

[audioguru]

My solder sucker slurps away all leaded solder. I haven't used wick for many years.

 

[ericgibbs]

I bought some new tips and plumbers flux and judging by their performance reflowing micro connector legs, the result is obvious! I've yet to try them on the wick (that job is now done) but I suspect it'll be just as effective so thank you all for your advise and support.

The question now remains, should I remove any remaining flux as I assume it's corrosive? I've got a can of contact cleaner (almost empty) but what is the active ingredient required to clean electronics, as I assume I could buy it cheaper?

hi T,
Be careful with some of the 'contact cleaners', some types are quite aggressive on plastics.

Use lightly soaped water and an old toothbrush to remove light water soluble stains.

For more heavy flux deposits a quick wipe with with methylated spirits cloth, then a light wash with soapy water will get the job done.

Dry it off with a kitchen paper towel [or toilet paper, unused of course]

 

[Tipsy]

My solder sucker slurps away all leaded solder. I haven't used wick for many years.

Lucky Uncle Scrooge Perhaps mine will now I've got new iron tips.

I've only just realised the old tips had lasted over 30 years (10 years professional use + 20 years occasional DIY use) before my abuse killed them off.

hi T,
Be careful with some of the 'contact cleaners', some types are quite aggressive on plastics.

Use lightly soaped water and an old toothbrush to remove light water soluble stains.

For more heavy flux deposits a quick wipe with with methylated spirits cloth, then a light wash with soapy water will get the job done.

Dry it off with a kitchen paper towel [or toilet paper, unused of course]

Great, Fairy Liquid is much cheaper than solvent!

 

[Sceadwian]

Audioguru, what kind of solder sucker do you use?

 

[audioguru]

My solder sucker has an aluminum barrel and an anti-static tip. It is probably 35 years old. I clean it once a year and lubricate its neoprene seal with lithium grease.