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SMD to DPI pcb conversion

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student1616

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hello all
while going through my regular feeds yesterday i found a PCB etching process (in instructables.com)for SMD components using salt water as processing solution.
**broken link removed**

the method is nice but for 6pin SMD's(like max2606) i found it hard.so is there any pre-existing pcb layouts for the SMD IC's,so that we can go with the conventional procedure of laser printing and etching.
a little help will be appreciated.
regards
 
thanks for the reply.
but hhhmmmmm my drawing skills always sucks.i tried but unable to get correct layout.if some one tried this before pls share ur experience
 
you don't have to draw anything ... you're simply taking two pre-drawn layouts and connecting lines from Pin 1 to Pin 1, Pin 6 to Pin 6, etc

if you had an odd package layout, someone might draw it for you, but a 6 pin (sot23-6 I assume) package is as standard as sliced bread.
 
thanks "just diy"
with ur inspiration i tried and finished with a good one(i think so)
i placed sod23-6,DPI pads and connected them through wires.pls have a look at the picture. **broken link removed**
but one thing bothering me is correct resolution(while exporting as image).when i used 150 it gave me above picture but if i increased it,the image size increased with the quality of pic.so what is the correct resolution for taking printout and etching it.
 
I export mine at 1200 DPI and then instruct the printer to print at that resolution, so it comes out 1 to 1

export at whatever resolution you're going to print it, typically 300, 600 or 1200 dpi

make sure whatever program you're printing with knows your printer resolution, otherwise a 1200 dpi image will print out HUGE!
 
thanks
i really don't know abt this printing issue for 1-1,thats why i used to get huge printout.but this time i'll try to take print at the exact resolution.
 
this is one I did a few weeks ago, converts the SOT23 package (up to the full 6 pins) to a 300 mil (skinny) DIP6
 

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I've always wondered about using electrolysis to etch. the problem I see with this is you need full electrical connectivity to ensure that the etching happens. Any area that will become disconnected won't completely etch. One poster on that site suggests lowering the board slowly into the bath and that could work but it seems like a lot of effort. Maybe multiple points of contact with the electrode could solve the problem. Also, some attention to layout could minimize the problems.

Still, I'll stick with AP for etching. more expensive but straight forward to use.
 
yea, I'll stick with caustic chemicals too ;) Usually I'm patient enough to let FeCl take its dear sweet time etching the board ... since I know what comes after etching is drilling and depanelizing, and that is no fun!
 
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