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meyepen

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I am trying to recreate a Phedor hand held vaporizer.
**broken link removed**

Before I get bombarded with negative comments regarding the use of the device I want to make, I am asking how to wire it not the morality of its use.


I want to use a SR-976H ceramic heating element.
Circuit Specialists Inc. - Replacement Ceramic Heating Element for the SR-976 (SR-976H)

I am wanting to set it up with battery power and a on/off switch or button and LED. If I can I would like it to be like a pen not a box.

Any help would be very appreciated.
 
you need bigger battery for heating elements., only real trick to the vapo is using the proper constant temperature
 
We just had another thread on this subject.

That element is about a 50 watt element. The biggest problem as was mentioned is you need a pretty high power battery followed by a means to control the element to give the desired temperature. I don't see this happening in a pen sized device.

Ron
 
Ok, so I would have to set it up to use a wall outlet for its power?

Pretty much. For example small battery powered soldering irons use a battery and they get good heat but it is short lived. You are forever recharging the batteries. Personally I am old school (child of the 60s) and thought a Bic was a great invention. Another problem is the temperature control aspect.

Ron
 
Ok, I'm confused. What is this used for? Reason I ask is because I know the heating elements used in e-cigaretts runs a couple days on a very small battery. Why would the power for this device be so much more?

PS: Is it just a lighter? Nevermind then.
 
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Ok, I'm confused. What is this used for? Reason I ask is because I know the heating elements used in e-cigaretts runs a couple days on a very small battery. Why would the power for this device be so much more?

PS: Is it just a lighter? Nevermind then.

I think if you Google "Tobacco Vaporizer" you will get the general drift. :)

We just had a thread not long ago on the subject but I can't remember it all. The problems are a few in that you need considerable heat but you also need controlled heat (from what I have managed to read). On the bright side the heat is in a small concentrated area.

Ron

Ron
 
Well, I went ahead and bought a goot soldering iron. It says that its 110-130, 220-240V 70w. Does that mean its compatible with 110-130v heat element?
 
Well, I went ahead and bought a goot soldering iron. It says that its 110-130, 220-240V 70w. Does that mean its compatible with 110-130v heat element?

I never saw a dual voltage soldering iron but 70 watts is 70 watts and that gets real hot. I have no clue how to configure the tip to a bowl but whatever on that note. Moving right along your soldering pencil has a purely resistive element so that is as we say a good thing. Something you might try to experiment with temperature is to buy a cheap lamp dimmer switch. Most basic units will handle 300 watt loads. Place the lamp dimmer in series with the soldering pencil treating the soldering pencil as a lamp. That should give you a somewhat temperature controlled soldering pencil. That might be a start. :)

Ron
 
I never saw a dual voltage soldering iron but 70 watts is 70 watts and that gets real hot. I have no clue how to configure the tip to a bowl but whatever on that note. Moving right along your soldering pencil has a purely resistive element so that is as we say a good thing. Something you might try to experiment with temperature is to buy a cheap lamp dimmer switch. Most basic units will handle 300 watt loads. Place the lamp dimmer in series with the soldering pencil treating the soldering pencil as a lamp. That should give you a somewhat temperature controlled soldering pencil. That might be a start. :)

Ron


Thanks for the info Ron. I got a goot solder iron that is pretty much what I was trying to design.
**broken link removed**
**broken link removed**
My issue with this model is that it heats in the middle of the ceramic heating element and I need it on the tip. I found other solder irons (hakko) that have their ceramic heating element heating the tip.

I am now trying to figure out if getting a 110-130v 60w ceramic heating element would be compatible.

From what I have read I think the dual voltage means for different countries, this iron was made in Germany(220-240v). I have an adapter for the plug so it works in an American(110-130v) 3 prong outlet.
I could be absolutely wrong.
 
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since you need to make a chamber, why not use a car cig lighter, (it should be enough power?, maybe 2 i couldn't find data) then it keeps everything at 12V, for your testing,

then after its all working you can use a cordless phone w.charger, charger for your base(gut it, and put in LiPo charger to pins, then put device in phone, attach prongs to each, so you have base charger for your device, that you can lift off when needed)

...if things start tasting like corn, you are burning it too hot...
 
since you need to make a chamber, why not use a car cig lighter, (it should be enough power?, maybe 2 i couldn't find data) then it keeps everything at 12V, for your testing,

then after its all working you can use a cordless phone w.charger, charger for your base(gut it, and put in LiPo charger to pins, then put device in phone, attach prongs to each, so you have base charger for your device, that you can lift off when needed)

...if things start tasting like corn, you are burning it too hot...

Hmm...corn? Sounds cool enough to look into further. I am going to see what I can find available for cigar lighters. I am really intrigued with ceramic heat elements. I got a goot px-201 solder iron cause it was pretty close to what I wanted. I was shipped the iron that has 220-240v instead of the US 110v-1130v. I am trying to return it so I can have the correct iron.
 
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