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Simple speaker switch

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SyCo123

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I've not done electronics in a very long time. My wife wants to be able to turn a speaker on in the kitchen. Rather than mess with impedance (as I don't understand it well enough) I thought an easier solution would be to switch a speaker in the lounge off, and turn one on in the kitchen.

I was thinking of a simple switch like this.

**broken link removed**

Where each side is one of the speaker sets. What is this type of switch called and where can I buy one? Is this even the right way to do it?

I'd also like to locate a small black box to mount the switch in, or a complete inline switch that my wife can easily use without having to reach behind the receiver.
 
I need to help some more here. There are a few issues you should be aware of:

1) The power output of the AMP. P=I^2*R A 3A switch is good for 72W at 8 ohms
2. The switch should be AC rated
3a. If the AMP is bridged internally
3b. If the AMP is not. If it's not all of the SPK- are connected together.

The switch you want is a DPDT on-none-on which means double pole, double throw and the end positions are maintained with no middle position.

The switch may look like:
1 2 3
4 5 6

from the back.

1,2 and 3 go makes up an SPDT switch and 4,5 and 6 make up another SPDT switch.
2 is common to 1 and 3 and 5 is common to 4 and 6.

If you, like follow the actuator side to the switch side (use you imagination and extend it), those are the contacts that are closed.

So 1,2 and 4 and 5 would be closed in one position and 2, 3 and 5 and 6 would be closed in the other.

What you need to do is to connect Kitchen LEFT SPK - to Den LEFT SPK-
and
Kitchen RIGHT Spk- to Den RIGHT SPK-

Then (example):
AMP RIGHT OUT+ to (2)
DEN RIGHT SPK+ to (1)
Kitchen RIGHT SPK+ to (3)

and

AMP LEFT OUT+ to (5)
DEN LEFT SPK+ to (4)
Kitchen LEFT SPK+ to (6)
 
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OK I think I got most of that, but how would I know if the amp is bridged internally?

In the tech spec for the switch linked above.
Voltage & Current: AC250V, 16A AC125V, 20A

And
Type: On/ Off/On (DPDT)

I presume that means it's 2 position with the option to have the second position be off or another on.
So it should should be OK?
 
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What I suggested, it doesn't matter if they are connected or not.

You could easily confirm if its bridged with an ohmmeter.

A type ON-OFF-ON means that there a three positions. Your system would then be den-off-kitchen. It will work, but with the added consequence. You should be able to get away with a smaller switch without a large clunk.
 
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OK cool.

$3.61 for 2 shipped is the best price I could find for a rocker switch like that. Do you know of a on/on that would be close in price?
Thanks for taking the time to help.
 
That's a pretty good price. We don't know if your in the US. Radio Shack should have something as well.

Remember that a project has a lot more than a switch:
Some other possibilities.

switch
Case
Feet
Solder
Soldering Iron
Wire
Grommets
Fork terminals/Binding posts (attach to speaker)
Wire nuts

I might envision a box with a switch and 3 grommets entering on one side. One goes to the radio, one to the kitchen speaker and 1 to the den speaker. Each wire would have an Underwriter's knot tied in it to prevent the wire from being pulled out.

In the box, I might have just pieces of wire to the switch and would wirenut everything inside the box.

I have no idea how your speakers connect, old and new nor do I know how the connections to the amp.
Way back when I could say screw terminals on the amp and wires on the speakers.
Then it was binding posts on the amp and binding posts on the speakers.
Then it was RCA plugs on the speakers.
Then sub miniature plugs
Then for the high end stuff Speak On connectors on the speakers.
I've seen speakers with a combo RCA/screw terminals.

Connectors are a possibility. There is just so many ways I could envision.

You could also do a nice job using external DIN terminals with wire protectors or DIN terminals without protectors/or with protectors with wire ferrules.

www.Jameco.com would probably have what you need from boxes to single feet.

Your hookup is "somewhat special". If you used a 4PDT switch, then connections are less critical because of 4 separate paths.

e.g. Like the 7001 switch in this datasheet: https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2012/01/70128142.pdf
Price is about $13.00 w/o shipping. Note pictures don;t match item which is typical. You have to consult the datasheet,
 
OK that 's great. BTW I'm in Colorado. If I have any more questions I'll be back :).
Thanks!
 
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