I've been working on a drainage system for quite a while. It has worked through a hurricane and prevented water from entering the house. In no way is it is complete for my application.
Currently, it collects water in a 10' x 30' dirt strip with a house and driveway border on the two long sides. Grass doesn't grow because of a fruit bush, but SILT was a problem.
The drainage design has everything one would want. Two storm drains, one for a gutter one for a swale, that head toward the street. Another gutter is over-the-dirt, for now, and drains into the top of the storm drain temporarily.
About 10' from the sidewalk, a drain back system (EZ-DRAIN) exists. Then solid schedule 40 and two Fernco couplings to get UNDER the sidewalk. Finally, this is followed by solid schedule 40 with holes and drain fabric over a drainage rock bed. Under the drainage rocks is a water main somewhere. The path and discharge was approved with an exception.
Homeowner drainage isn;t really regulated where I'm at, but there are some guidelines: Don;t drain on a sidewalk and don't cut the curb. We investigate only if people complain.
Calculated 100 year event volumes when complete near 40 GPM or the max for 4" SDR pipe.
The elbow at the bottom of pop-up used to fill with mud. That's now squeeky clean. The first filter design was too good, so it clogged. So, I looked at the filter after 7 months over winter. The filter was easily cleaned and not clogged. The original filter clogged during Hurricane Sandy and was removed during the storm.
So, now I have a filter that can be made for about $12 in parts. Although, building one will cost you about $80.
My question, does a product like this have any merit at all. I got quotes to build three custom filters for $350 each. Those filters would handle hydrocarbons. Mine handles only silt, but I'll bet that conditioning is possible.
All parts are commercially available except for 3 cut and drilled pieces of fiberglass and drilled clamp. I needed to buy 500 special rivets for 3.
So, the use is the home where you don't have to install "APPROVED" equipment.
Sediment isn't good for the waterways or is it good for your drainage system. Maintenance looks like clean every 6 months and inspect after a major storm event which is normal.
So, the filter fits 4" SDR pipe that protrudes about 1" into the D-box. The filter is a commercial product. The bracket and the use of the filter in this application make sit unique.
So, now I'm in the process of designing and building a bypass. In order to build the conceptual bypass, you need about 4" of wall space ABOVE the top of the 4" discharge pipe to accommodate the flange of a bulkhead connector. So, your S&D pipe has to be somewhat deep. This isn't an issue for me because EZ-DRAIN required me to go deep.
You'll also need to dig at least 20" or more of area free along the discharge path.
Adding the bypass after the fact will introduce some challenges.
So, just wondering if it would be worth persuring this as an anventure at the famous auction site. Essentially a made bracket and a kit of parts for either the filter or filter + bypass. No tools.
Having the brackets professionally made, I wasn't considering.
I don't want people drilling holes in stainless and needing a rivet gun. But a large hole saw is required among the standard stuff for working with PVC pipe and digging for the bypass install.
The filter install is virtually tool-less as long as you meet the aprox 1" protrusion. I'm using it on something much less with a clever fix. Adding the bypass will remove that restriction.
Most homeowners would not likely have the deep D-box required, but one could be added or one could live with cleaning and not worry about the bypass. If one was ambitious, one could install an alarm.
Your thoughts?
Currently, it collects water in a 10' x 30' dirt strip with a house and driveway border on the two long sides. Grass doesn't grow because of a fruit bush, but SILT was a problem.
The drainage design has everything one would want. Two storm drains, one for a gutter one for a swale, that head toward the street. Another gutter is over-the-dirt, for now, and drains into the top of the storm drain temporarily.
About 10' from the sidewalk, a drain back system (EZ-DRAIN) exists. Then solid schedule 40 and two Fernco couplings to get UNDER the sidewalk. Finally, this is followed by solid schedule 40 with holes and drain fabric over a drainage rock bed. Under the drainage rocks is a water main somewhere. The path and discharge was approved with an exception.
Homeowner drainage isn;t really regulated where I'm at, but there are some guidelines: Don;t drain on a sidewalk and don't cut the curb. We investigate only if people complain.
Calculated 100 year event volumes when complete near 40 GPM or the max for 4" SDR pipe.
The elbow at the bottom of pop-up used to fill with mud. That's now squeeky clean. The first filter design was too good, so it clogged. So, I looked at the filter after 7 months over winter. The filter was easily cleaned and not clogged. The original filter clogged during Hurricane Sandy and was removed during the storm.
So, now I have a filter that can be made for about $12 in parts. Although, building one will cost you about $80.
My question, does a product like this have any merit at all. I got quotes to build three custom filters for $350 each. Those filters would handle hydrocarbons. Mine handles only silt, but I'll bet that conditioning is possible.
All parts are commercially available except for 3 cut and drilled pieces of fiberglass and drilled clamp. I needed to buy 500 special rivets for 3.
So, the use is the home where you don't have to install "APPROVED" equipment.
Sediment isn't good for the waterways or is it good for your drainage system. Maintenance looks like clean every 6 months and inspect after a major storm event which is normal.
So, the filter fits 4" SDR pipe that protrudes about 1" into the D-box. The filter is a commercial product. The bracket and the use of the filter in this application make sit unique.
So, now I'm in the process of designing and building a bypass. In order to build the conceptual bypass, you need about 4" of wall space ABOVE the top of the 4" discharge pipe to accommodate the flange of a bulkhead connector. So, your S&D pipe has to be somewhat deep. This isn't an issue for me because EZ-DRAIN required me to go deep.
You'll also need to dig at least 20" or more of area free along the discharge path.
Adding the bypass after the fact will introduce some challenges.
So, just wondering if it would be worth persuring this as an anventure at the famous auction site. Essentially a made bracket and a kit of parts for either the filter or filter + bypass. No tools.
Having the brackets professionally made, I wasn't considering.
I don't want people drilling holes in stainless and needing a rivet gun. But a large hole saw is required among the standard stuff for working with PVC pipe and digging for the bypass install.
The filter install is virtually tool-less as long as you meet the aprox 1" protrusion. I'm using it on something much less with a clever fix. Adding the bypass will remove that restriction.
Most homeowners would not likely have the deep D-box required, but one could be added or one could live with cleaning and not worry about the bypass. If one was ambitious, one could install an alarm.
Your thoughts?
