Continue to Site

Welcome to our site!

Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

  • Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.

Russian vacuum tube data -- where ?

Status
Not open for further replies.

tiny2

New Member
I have quantity four wire-ended tubes of russian origin. As far as I can tell, converted from the cyrillic, the type number is 6J10B-V.

Now, using google, I can find data for the 6J10B pentode, but the pin layout is completely different to mine.

The 6J10B has 7 wire leads arranged in a straight line. My 6J10B-V look very much like a half-size B7G arrangement ie 7 leads in a small horse-shoe type pattern. With a little experimentation, I've found the heaters -- easy ! -- but trying to look through the highly reflective shaped glass base to try and observe the internal connections is difficult. I suppose as a last resort I could sacrifice one and cut it open for investigation.

Anyone know where i might find the base diagram, or aware of any method of testing an 'unknown' tube without risk of damage ?

regards..
 
Hi Tiny2,

Before you start doing some destructive "testing" you might
want to take a look here first:

**broken link removed**

on1aag.
 
@picasm : Thanks for the link. That is indeed the data sheet I found, but the style of the base does not match my tubes.

@0n1aag: The problem is that I don't understand how to relate the pin numbers to the base I have. For example, if It was really a B7G base, then the heaters are actually on pins 1 and 7.

Any one had any experience of neatly and safely cutting open a glass tube? I was thinking of trying to run a glass cutting bit around the glass bulb near the base then tapping it sharply. Maybe I'd be better to break the 'pip' off the top to relieve the vacuum first.

regards..
 
Another place to try before you start chopping your tubes up:
**broken link removed**

(You can also send in requests for tubes not listed)
 
Hi Tiny2,

The heater is connected between pins 4 and 5.
There are seven pins, so what's your problem ?

Can you post a picture ?

on1aag.
 
Last edited:
The cathode (if there is a separate cathode) should have maximum capacitance with the heater.

If you heat the cathode, and apply a + bias to two of the terminals, If you have plate and screen, the plate should have the highest current, and the screen grid second highest. The remaining two are the control grid and suppressor grid. The control grid should have an influence on the screen current.

I sure hope this is right; it's been a really loooong time.
 
Last edited:
Thanks all for replies, in the end I decided to cut open a tube and have a look inside. I'd read an article about someone who claimed to be able to cut a glass jar down to size by scoring around the circumference with a glass cutter, heating up the whole jar, then plunging it into a container of cold water; so thats essentially what i did.

The glass bulb cracked neatly around half of the score mark but went rather jagged around the other half. Tidied it up carefully with small pliers. Anyhow, I was able to easily confirm the connections and demonstrated it as working on my old Avo MK4 tester.

Here's the final base diagram.
regards
**broken link removed**
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest threads

New Articles From Microcontroller Tips

Back
Top