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Relays on the junebug

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AtomSoft

Well-Known Member
I have a reed relay i could not find it in eagle but used what seems to be a equivalent. Thats not the point tho. My issue is for some reason i get a halt and my programmer dies for a second or so when i press the button on the junebug. The code is not the issue tho. Im using the IR code i had a while back to make my remote turn on and off a bell by using a relay.

Here is my schematic. Why is my junebug suffering?

**broken link removed**
 
D1 should go across K1, K1 must be less than 20ma coil. If the relay is larger you'll need a transistor driver.
Something like this from Nigels page
**broken link removed**
 
still having a issue not sure on actual wiring i blew like 4 transistors already lol :D Junebug seems ok programs and debugs still :D
Exactly what type transistor to use? On no load it may be more than 15V but should not be a issue because relay hold 120v or so. But transistors are like baby relay and take way less energy

I am trying to use either of the below:
**broken link removed**
https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062478&cp
Code:
Your source for component parts.
Fast response, small size and low cost make this 5VDC relay a good choice for robotics, computer interfacing and projects that require several relays.

# Maximum switching power of 10 (watt/VA)
# Maximum switching voltage of 60 VDC, 120VAC
# Maximum switching current of 0.5 A
# Maximum initial contact resistance of 150m ohms

or

**broken link removed**
https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062480&cp

Code:
Your source for component parts.
Fast response, small size and low cost make this 1 amp SPDT relay a good choice for robotics, computer interfacing and projects that require several relays.

# Coil rating of 5VDC
# 90 mA
# 55 ohms
# Body size of 1-1/32x3/8x1/4"


    * SPDT 1A at 125VAC
 
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i have corrected the diode but nothing still. Maybe because my pinout of the relay is totally different . I hate 4 pins on relay and i only see a coil above.the coil is the switch. and the other pins are the what i call travelers. When coil has power (switch on) the com (other 2 pins touch closing the circuit and should indeed sound bell. Bell works alone so its not that. The coil has a diode where the line is is facing +. But since this is a relay i am pulling the 5v and gnd from junebug to switch on the coil and hence turn on bell.
 
The top one is a reed relay, it's about 20ma and I've actually got a few of them and they do work directly from a PIC pin. A 1N4148 diode works well with small relays. The big relay needs the transistor to work.
Advice:
connect the anode and one side of the coil to 5V
connect the cathode and the other coil to the pic pin (pull low to drive)
Your USB port is limited to about 100ma, a powered hub can increase that to 500ma or more.
**broken link removed**
it's a 555 but the concept is the same, note how D3 is connected
 
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Get yourself a DS18B20 or 18S20 temperature sensor someday. You'll love wrapping your brain around the 1-wire stuff, especially when you network them. Your Junebug has a 1-wire connector on it.
 
ok seems to work fine unless you press on and off fast lol. I guess i should make a delay thing so you cant press it for another second or 2 . Ill take a pic and draw schematics thanks to all. (schem is like above but i guess i had it a mess and messed up before.
 
1 wire? is that possible? I knew it i heard of something like that before but to me it was a legend lol

Um i think i had to use that diode you told me about 1n4148 (i have like 6 left lol) Thx
 
Basically i want a remote to open my room :D will have hidden button incase remote lost lol
Here is one:
**broken link removed**

and the other:
**broken link removed**

EDIT: Hey futz.. i only have 1 light still going to by a halogen lamp or just a normal one and a halogen bulb today.
 
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AtomSoft said:
1 wire? is that possible? I knew it i heard of something like that before but to me it was a legend lol
They have been around for a while. I use them in my greenhouse and pond. Currently I am building a project that will use them on a car.

Microchip provides sample source code. It is fairly easy to do with just one device. More then that gets a bit complicated. But not impossible.
 
Nice photo, what's the rating on that solenoid? You may need a bigger relay. You can use one relay to drive another.
Another solution is an opto-isolator. It's very gentile on the PIC and is exactly the same as driving an LED.
PS you can use the small 3pin header with RB3 to drive your relay, it also has PWM so you could experiment with holding current. (A relay doesn't need as much power to stay energized)
https://www.me.umn.edu/courses/me2011/robot/technotes/bidirectional/bidirMotor.html**broken link removed**
 
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um..

.5A @ 125v
coil resistance 250 ohms

was baffled but google helped:

A solenoid is a 3-dimensional coil. In physics, the term solenoid refers to a loop of wire, often wrapped around a metallic core, which produces a magnetic ...
 
AtomSoft said:
um..

.5A @ 125v
coil resistance 250 ohms

was baffled but google helped:

A solenoid is a 3-dimensional coil. In physics, the term solenoid refers to a loop of wire, often wrapped around a metallic core, which produces a magnetic ...

No not the relay, the big thing in your photo that says "property of Adamsoft"
 
i guess this would have to wait untill i order the parts needed :) at least it works for now. More efficient update later (when parts come in). So im going to write these parts down in my (Micro Shopping list lol) Thanks. Im also going to save this whole topic
 
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