LED is rated at 3W 700mA but I'll run at 1W 350mA to make shine not so bright.
The motor is 12V or 24V don't know as I salvaged it from a printer. I measured the current drawn by motor when connected to computer PSU 12V ant it was 0.3 to 1Amp including PWM controller.
LED is rated at 3W 700mA but I'll run at 1W 350mA to make shine not so bright.
The motor is 12V or 24V don't know as I salvaged it from a printer. I measured the current drawn by motor when connected to computer PSU 12V ant it was 0.3 to 1Amp including PWM controller.
hi,
In that case I would consider using just the one psu for the LED and motor.
The only point I would change is C5 10uF, I would fit a larger value as you are switching a motor, say at least 220uF to 470uF.
Motors tend to draw high switching currents and in somecases the LM338 is not fast enough to compensate, so the C5 cap will help to supply the switching currents.
R1 must not be higher than 120 ohms for the LM317, LM338 and LM350. It must not be higher than 240 ohms for the more expensive LM117, LM138 and LM150.
Or the output voltage might rise without a load as described in the datasheets.
Then of course the value of the pot must also be reduced to go along with the lower value for R1.
It seems I have 2 fake LM338T IC's. I made simple air wire setup using datasheet schematic for 1.2-25V (page7) voltage regulator.
I used socket to be able to change LM338 without soldering it. I then took my old LM338T from another project, and guess what with it the circuit works, and with my new LM338 it does not.
I'll post photos of fake LM338T and the one that works fine. Both have National logo.