Possible to fix air purifier APT40010R ? (plugged into 220v instead of 110v)

[vkvkvvk]

Hi, I have a air puffier not working after I accidentally plugged into a 220v wall socket instead of 110v. My step down transformer had 2 ports, one for 110v and the other for 220v and I plug into the wrong socket. It worked for awhile while it was plugged into 220v but after awhile I couldn't turn on. There was no burnt smell or anything.

I tried to dismantle but all I could access was the circuit board. Base on what I can see visually nothing looks burned. I don't have a multimeter to test too. Is it possible that the capacitors, power relay, diodes and transistors are burned but not visible to tell?
Can anyone please advice, any help would be deeply appreciated. I just bought a few more new filters to replace and they were not cheap.

 

[MaxHeadRoom78]

Not much on the board, the two power semis on their H.S. would be the first to check there is a remote possibility a relay coil(s) could be open.
Max.

 

[vkvkvvk]

Not much on the board, the two power semis on their H.S. would be the first to check there is a remote possibility a relay coil(s) could be open.
Max.

Thanks for the reply, the relay coils is near the motor?

 

[alec_t]

Does the thing have a fuse somewhere? If so, check or replace that.

 

[vkvkvvk]

That's the first thing I tried to look for. There isn't one in the plug itself. Couldn't find any on the circuit board either.

 

[DerStrom8]

What you show is not enough to go on. I do not see the power supply....? Voltage is probably around 12V by the time it gets to this board. Look upstream for the power supply PCB.

EDIT: To clarify, I mean the power supply board for the control circuitry. I think I see the mains connections on the hot side of the relays.

 

[jpanhalt]

When you say "it wouldn't turn on," do you mean it was completely dead, no lights, nothing; or, do you mean the fans didn't work?

Some devices turn of the fans when a sensor needs t be reset.

John

EDIT: It has a 5 year warranty. You could call Wirlpool and tell them it just suddenly stopped working. No explanation of what you think may have caused that is needed. After all, you are not an expert on Wirlpool appliances.

 

[vkvkvvk]

What you show is not enough to go on. I do not see the power supply....? Voltage is probably around 12V by the time it gets to this board. Look upstream for the power supply PCB.

EDIT: To clarify, I mean the power supply board for the control circuitry. I think I see the mains connections on the hot side of the relays.

The power cable is directly connected to the circuit board. I can't access any deeper other then the picture shown below: [can't seem to find any screws to unscrew to take out the grey plate.]

IMG_6240
IMG_6236

 

[vkvkvvk]

When you say "it wouldn't turn on," do you mean it was completely dead, no lights, nothing; or, do you mean the fans didn't work?
View attachment 94870

Some devices turn of the fans when a sensor needs t be reset.

John

EDIT: It has a 5 year warranty. You could call Wirlpool and tell them it just suddenly stopped working. No explanation of what you think may have caused that is needed. After all, you are not an expert on Wirlpool appliances.

There is completely no light at all no matter which button I press. Tried on 2 step down transformers to test.
Its an export set, there is no warranty sadly.

 

[DerStrom8]

The fact that it was working for a while and then died suggests to me that the relay contacts may have welded. Then again, there are quite a few other possibilities too. I suggest you test the relays by applying voltage across the coil contacts. If you hear a click, it should be good (unless the contact is corroded).

 

[vkvkvvk]

The fact that it was working for a while and then died suggests to me that the relay contacts may have welded. Then again, there are quite a few other possibilities too. I suggest you test the relays by applying voltage across the coil contacts. If you hear a click, it should be good (unless the contact is corroded).

Sorry, but I'm not very good at this. May I know which is the relay? Is the relay shown in any of the pictures I have uploaded?

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

It's not likely the power supply, but rather a switching board. Can you read any part numbers on the items connected to the aluminum heat sinks? And/or the designations next to the cables like: (LOW, MED)

Can you post a pic of the back of the PCB (Searching for PCB traces used as a fuse).

The black things are relays 12 VDC coils.

The grey plate has to slide, but the rectangular hole with the white plastic looks like a stop. Depress it, and slide the grey plate.

We probably won't be much help.

EDIT: first few sentences

 

[alec_t]

I see the box labelled 'Foreign Electricity Converter' is rated for 230W maximum. Is that still working? What is the power rating of the air purifier?

 

[DerStrom8]

To be painfully honest, if you don't know how to look up "Relay" in google to see what it looks like, I'm not sure you should be attempting any repairs....

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

I suspect that there is a processor some place, 2x the line voltage should blow a fuse. Some manufacturer's use a sacrificial component instead, because fuses can be replaced with over rated ones. It's possible that the PCB has a sacrificial link on it.

The part numbers and the designations would offer some clues in what you exposed. e.g. Ux is typically an IC and Fx is a fuse and Qx is a transistor.

The designations on the jacks offer some clues as well. For now it looks like a way to activate low, med and high speeds.
I suppose there's a UV light and maybe a buzzer. Without any other info, the heat sinked things could be solid state switching for say the UV light.

Now, there COULD be components on the bottom, but I suspect not. What you exposed does't appear to be the control section.

MATT: Contacts don't normally weld and be off.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Here is a datasheet for the relays: https://www.futurlec.com/Relays/JQC-3FF-12.shtml I highly doubt it your problem, but we are in the biz to educate.

I realize that an air purifier can make a lot of difference your quality of life if you need it.

I don;t expect you live in the US, otherwise I'd say get a $5.00 DVM at Harbor Freight.

I don't have high hopes in you fixing it.

For all of us thread viewers, the manual is here: https://www.sylvane.com/media/documents/products/whirlpool-apt40010r-air-purifier-manual.pdf

 

[DerStrom8]

I suspect that there is a processor some place, 2x the line voltage should blow a fuse. Some manufacturer's use a sacrificial component instead, because fuses can be replaced with over rated ones. It's possible that the PCB has a sacrificial link on it.

The part numbers and the designations would offer some clues in what you exposed. e.g. Ux is typically an IC and Fx is a fuse and Qx is a transistor.

The designations on the jacks offer some clues as well. For now it looks like a way to activate low, med and high speeds.
I suppose there's a UV light and maybe a buzzer. Without any other info, the heat sinked things could be solid state switching for say the UV light.

Now, there COULD be components on the bottom, but I suspect not. What you exposed does't appear to be the control section.

MATT: Contacts don't normally weld and be off.

Yep, that occurred to me after the fact. Not quite sure what I was thinking when I posted that, my mind was more on my work

 

[vkvkvvk]

It's not likely the power supply, but rather a switching board. Can you read any part numbers on the items connected to the aluminum heat sinks? And/or the designations next to the cables like: (LOW, MED)
Can you post a pic of the back of the PCB (Searching for PCB traces used as a fuse).
The black things are relays 12 VDC coils.
The grey plate has to slide, but the rectangular hole with the white plastic looks like a stop. Depress it, and slide the grey plate.
We probably won't be much help.
EDIT: first few sentences

The the component attached to a heatsink is shows 882 112J [hard to get a viewing angle], the other component attached to another heatsink is the picture right below, it shows CW7805

I see the box labelled 'Foreign Electricity Converter' is rated for 230W maximum. Is that still working? What is the power rating of the air purifier?

Based on what I see on the borchure of the product its states: electrical requirement is 53watt but from another website that does reviews states: Typical energy usage: 115 Watts. I have 2 working step down transformers, one is 230w the other is 300w

To be painfully honest, if you don't know how to look up "Relay" in google to see what it looks like, I'm not sure you should be attempting any repairs....

I did look up on google but i was confused with relay coil and power relay.

I suspect that there is a processor some place, 2x the line voltage should blow a fuse. Some manufacturer's use a sacrificial component instead, because fuses can be replaced with over rated ones. It's possible that the PCB has a sacrificial link on it.
The part numbers and the designations would offer some clues in what you exposed. e.g. Ux is typically an IC and Fx is a fuse and Qx is a transistor.
The designations on the jacks offer some clues as well. For now it looks like a way to activate low, med and high speeds.
I suppose there's a UV light and maybe a buzzer. Without any other info, the heat sinked things could be solid state switching for say the UV light.
Now, there COULD be components on the bottom, but I suspect not. What you exposed does't appear to be the control section.
MATT: Contacts don't normally weld and be off.

I live in singapore and the air is quite bad. The haze from Indonesian forest fires is spreading to its neighbouring countries. I was hoping to be able to fix it by desoldering the faulty components and replacing it with new ones.

 

[DerStrom8]

I did look up on google but i was confused with relay coil and power relay.

You'd need to google to see what they were and how they work. A relay (mechanical, not solid state) has two main parts: The coil which forms an electromagnet and the contacts which are moved by the coil. When you energize the coil, the electromagnet pulls on a piece of metal connected to the contacts, forcing them to move together and make a connection. I was suggesting you energize just the coil (don't worry about what's on the other side, or even better, test for continuity between the relay contacts while applying a voltage across the coil).

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

best guess is that board is a 12 V and 5V LINE OPERATED powers supply with no isolation. High voltage AC is present on the board, +12 probably is local to the board and used to operate the relays. Between GND/VCC is probably 5V DC that goes to the switch module and possibly a process or glob that PCB.

It's LIKELY that HI MED LOW are (grounded or tied to +5) individually to select a particular speed.

Some measuring should be done, particularly Vcc and GND and some circuit tracing,

I think the most you could hope for is wiring a low voltage switch to change the fan speeds. The worst, a single fan speed hard wired and/or one or two bad windings.

There doesn't appear to be anything on that board that could implement the timer, remote control etc,