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Please Help Tv ????

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if you get stuck, PM me with the detailed symptoms and model number. Sony tv sets (esp. the XBR ones) are alien technology sent to earth to shorten the lives of video technicians. Somehow Sony desires to use 3-5 times more parts to do the same job other mfgrs. accomplish with less. However, no crt performs like a Trinitron does!!!! I must admit that in their favor.
 
My Sony KV-32S22 TV is completely dead, doesn't turn on, doesn't make a relay click and doesn't flash its LED. It stopped working without any smoke.

I got the service manual from the web and yes, it is full of many parts.
I looked at the site that has TV repair discussion but there isn't a search engine and the sets are not in order, I got half-way through them all.

I didn't take it apart yet, I'll look tomorrow. Maybe just its fuse (blown without any reason?) or maybe a bad solder joint.
 
Hi Guys,
In my Sony KV-32S22 TV, the main fuse on the power supply board and the main rectifier bridge are OK, but R607 is open (ceramic 0.1 ohm/0.5W) and either the converter transistors or the caps across them are both shorted. I think the transistors are gone. There is faint charring on the board near the transistors but they look fine.

The main board had two rubber self-adhesive shims drop onto it. The shims were between the deflection yoke and the CRT and one looks like it has been cooking, melting and charring for awhile very close to the H-output transistor, so it might also be blown.

I'll remove C613 and C614 to see if they or the converter transistors are shorted.

Here is the schematic of part of the power supply:
 

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audioguru said:
Hi Guys,
In my Sony KV-32S22 TV, the main fuse on the power supply board and the main rectifier bridge are OK, but R607 is open (ceramic 0.1 ohm/0.5W) and either the converter transistors or the caps across them are both shorted. I think the transistors are gone. There is faint charring on the board near the transistors but they look fine.

The main board had two rubber self-adhesive shims drop onto it. The shims were between the deflection yoke and the CRT and one looks like it has been cooking, melting and charring for awhile very close to the H-output transistor, so it might also be blown.

By 'shims' by you mean rubber 'wedges'?, these often fall out, they should be under the scan coils, keeping them in the correct position - if they fall out, purity often suffers.

You should be able to check the line output transistor with a simple ohms test, they generally go VERY S/C - so a low ohms range test is all you mostly need.

I'll remove C613 and C614 to see if they or the converter transistors are shorted.

It'll be the transistors! - even if one of the caps had failed (which would be very rare - unless they are small blue disk ones?) it would take the transistors anyway. If there are any small blue, high voltage, capacitors in the PSU, then check them for burnt spots or cracks, they are often very unreliable (but Sony's aren't known for them).

Quick edit: check for dry joints (cold soldered joints in America), these can often cause transistors to blow - did one the other day, a 29 inch Sony with the PSU transistor blown, there was a dry joint on the snubber capacitor.
 
I'm not saavy on your specific model but Sony does have Horiz. service kits and it's best to use them if one applies to your set. It inculdes the most common parts needed to restore the HO section. Locate where those yoke shims fell out from and glue them in place using contact glue. There should be some residue indicators as to how far they were wedged to keep alignment good.
 
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