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please help id this part and help fix

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ronnelldotson

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hello i have a small practice amp that i have had for a while. today i went to plug it in and i heard a slight pop and it stoped working and smelled funny. i opened it up and did not see anything at first. then i noticed that this little thing was damaged. the amps power light still comes on but does not put out any sound. so i figure this has to be the issue ....... i found a lm18752 5 pin out put module. i was wondering if they all hook up the same or is their any diff. mine has a red wire on one side and white wire on the other side of a lil electric board the module is linked to .... can you please help id and find the part i need ..... i sent a pic as well so you can see what it lookes like ... i can not see numbers on it cause it is melted

https://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff424/godsbassplayer/th_IMG_20110720_133611.jpg
 
It's an audio amplifier chip of course, but which one. A well-lit picture of just the dead part taken with a camera with a few megapixels would help. Do you know the brand and model of the amplifier? Do you know what the DC supply voltage is? Why did you mention the LM18752?
 
it is a ibanez model sw15 and i mention the lm18--- cause i was messing around on the net and saw a part that looked like the part thats in my amp thats busted ... as u can tell i dont have a clue as to what this stuff really is ... i can understand well and if i had the right part sure i could fix it ...
i have a photobucket link above with a pic of the dead part.... and im unsure what the dc supply is i still have all of my paper work for it would it be in the user manual or on the amp
 
is it any diff between the TDA2040 and TDA2040v
Yes, but it is of little relevance for your application since yours is chassis mounted. The vertical (V) and horizontal (H) designations only differ in the way their leads are bent for mounting on a PCB.

https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2011/07/CD00004635.pdf
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2011/07/CD00004758.pdf

Be sure to follow the mounting guidelines and use heat sink compound.

https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2011/07/CD00003783.pdf
 
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ok so i looked at it .... i see a lil box deal that has a spool of wires inside its also on the same side as the power cable ... on it the sticker says
input 120vac 60hz
output 14x2 aco-4a
 
i work on cars as my hobby and this stuff you guys deal with is ruff.... i would take it to a shop but im in iraq and i cant practice with out it ...lol.... im really bored when im not being shot at so if i get lucky and fix it ..... ill be good if not ill just send it back home and dig fox holes till its time for me to come home ...lol
 
I'd think some of your local techies could help or just have someone send you the TDA2040. There's no guarantee that replacing that part will solve the problem. It's a tough part with a built in thermal protection circuit so you should make sure the speaker isn't shorted before you replace the TDA2040.
 
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He's just talking about using heat sink compound to get a good thermal interface between the TDA2040 and the heat sink. I mentioned that in post #6. It's sometimes called heat sink grease, thermal compound or thermal grease.
 
Wouldn't the laminate be between the old part and the sink he could just re-use it. Still you heat sink compound.
 
There are no mica or other thermal pads made for the pentawatt package, just use heat sink compound.
 
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