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Please could some one look at this timer circuit - need help

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icom128

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Hi, I have built a timer circuit that I found on the web. I am quite new to electronics, and
it wouldn't surprise me if I have made a mistake in producing the pcb.
The timer is needed to shut off an 18v dc charge to a 14.4v drill battery at approx 2 hours.
The strange thing is, this schematic works when tested with the livewire simulation program.
But doesn't work on my etched pcb.

I added a 7812 regulator to drop the voltage from 18v to 12v for the relay coil and 4060b
their is 12v present on pin 12 of the 4060b but nothing happens e:g no leds light ect.
I have also tried various 4060b's and various bc547's in case they were faulty.
I also looked for broken tracks or shorts on the pcb, but all seems OK.
I have adjusted the 470k pot , still nothing happens.

the yellow led should light at 28 seconds to give a 2 hour period before pin 1 of ic energizes the relay to shut off the 18v charge. The green led should flash to indicated the count sequence. I have attached the schematic , and my pcb layout , and my pcb foil side for some one to kindly inspect, and maybe spot an error that I have possibly made.

Thanks in advance for any help offered.
 
+12 V should not be present on pin 12 most of the time. The reset switch take pin 12 to +12 V to reset the circuit, but as soon as that switch is released, R6 makes the voltage go low, allowing the 4060 to run.

I suggest that you check that you have +12V on pin 16, 0V on pin 8
0V on pin 12
The green LED is the right way round and working.
There is 0 V on pin1, and that is connected trough to D1 and R7

If those are all correct, and the LED is not flashing, remove D1 for testing. You can put it back later.

If it is still not oscillating, measure the voltages on pins 9, 10 and 11 and report back.
 
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Is your pcb foil side a mirror image (L/R reversed) of the top view of the layout? If not, the pin connections of the IC and the regulator will be wrong.
 
Diver300 thanks for your reply, you were indeed right about the reset only temporarily needing to give the 12v to pin 12 of the ic.
I checked the D1 which was ok. Then When checking voltages on the ic pins you suggested I noticed that the 4060
seemed quite loose in the ic holder,And when pressing the ic down i noticed A quick flash of the green led. I wouldn't see this before
as I always had the reset button closed when checking or replacing the 4060's. The circuit worked fine when testing resets ect, then it stopped
working again. So I inspected the ic holder again, and sure enough the 4060 was loose again. I removed the ic holder, and soldered the 4060 directly
to the board and it works every time. So to recap your info on the reset needing to be open to work the circuit led me to a very nasty cheap ic holder that
I got from ebay causing me headaches. I can now play with the circuit tomorrow, adjusting the pot for accurate timing of the yellow led light time, so pin 1 can energize the relay at the set time. But its really strange why livewire simulator worked this circuit with the reset switch closed.
and in real life operation the switch has to be released as you stated for the circuit to work. Just checked again in livewire , if the switch is open the circuit
stops working , close it and it resumes. Thanks again for taking the time to help.

To the other posters thanks also, the foil side does not need to be mirrored when using the photo paper transfer method, because when you iron on
the foil image to the copper board, you end up with the foil looking like the layout in my attached picture. But if I wanted text on the foil side I would mirror
the text onto the image on screen not the traces, then print to photo paper.

Not sure what the poster meant about "where did you get the resistors" the resistors seen in my attached image are 3d component stamps in my library, to be dropped onto the layout. This just shows me a quick placement reference of what resistor colours go where ect.

Regards
 
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