Using ExpressPCB I created a layout to be used for a printed circuit board. I have a inkjet printer, and no special etching equipment.
I was wondering what the best method of transferring from the computer to the circuit board is. Please simplify it down as I haven't ever done this type thing before.
If all you have is an inkjet printer, then I suggest a positive-resist photo process. In reality, you need to buy boards that are pre-sensitized. Print your pattern on something that is reasonably transparent to near UV light (I use overhead transparencies; some people use vellum). Expose the positive. Develope in a solution of lye or sodium carbonate (I use potassium hydroxide). Etch , and then remove the remaining resist with stronger lye or solvent.
Will that method of image transfer work with an inkjet printer as described by the OP?
Edit: Inkjet users can take their design to a print shop and have it copied by laser onto a transfer medium. Some shops are may not do that, because the transfer medium may bind in the paper feed mechanisms for their high-speed copiers.
does the express pcb software let you print the copper artwork layers? I know one of those 'free' softwares provided by a board house doesn't let you do anything with your art except submit it to them for printing, can't remember which.
Will that method of image transfer work with an inkjet printer as described by the OP?
Edit: Inkjet users can take their design to a print shop and have it copied by laser onto a transfer medium. Some shops are may not do that, because the transfer medium may bind in the paper feed mechanisms for their high-speed copiers.
But I have made over 100 PCB's with this simple method.
All I do is just take a normal printout to the A4 paper from the inkjet printer.
After I take the A4 paper to a shop & make a photocopy to a transparent sheet.
Thats it after that ironing stuff.
Some have good experience in doing with magazine papers too.
If all you have is an inkjet printer, then I suggest a positive-resist photo process. In reality, you need to buy boards that are pre-sensitized. Print your pattern on something that is reasonably transparent to near UV light (I use overhead transparencies; some people use vellum). Expose the positive. Develope in a solution of lye or sodium carbonate (I use potassium hydroxide). Etch , and then remove the remaining resist with stronger lye or solvent.
Yes, there's nothing complicated about the photo process. I used it to make my very first PCB, it's easier than the toner transfer process so it's ideal for a nube. The only drawback is it's more expensive as you need a UV exposure box (easy to build) and special pre-sensitised board.
As far as the toner transfer method is concerned I've found magazine paper to be the most cost effective paper to use.
The above link is ideal for a beginner.I have tried that & gave me great results.No need UV tubes & other etching stuff just need an old iron , the printout,Ferric Chloride,& water.
The link posted by gayan has a very simple process of making pcb using ferrric chloride etch ...its very simple and the results are stunning ....but while ironing the photo paper onto the copper board ...please apply a lot of preasure on the board ...by doing so toner will be fully transferred.....
....and with the etching solution pls add a little diluted hcl to speed up the process...If you are living in apace where the room temperature is more than 25 degrees centigrade ...the solution need not be heated ...else heat the solution to 40 degrees centigrade.... I have learned to make a pcb using the same link i have got excellent results .....
Will that method of image transfer work with an inkjet printer as described by the OP?
Edit: Inkjet users can take their design to a print shop and have it copied by laser onto a transfer medium. Some shops are may not do that, because the transfer medium may bind in the paper feed mechanisms for their high-speed copiers.
does the express pcb software let you print the copper artwork layers? I know one of those 'free' softwares provided by a board house doesn't let you do anything with your art except submit it to them for printing, can't remember which.
I have used Express PCB for over a year, for my own PCB making and their PCB services, no problems with either. They make excellent boards at a good price if you need many, enough to offset the setup charge. Door to door service is three working days.
Have not tried Express SCH to export schematics to the PCB, so I will not comment on that.
The link provided with the laser printer/iron on PCB tutorial worked wonderfully. The only issue that I ran into was when I started drilling my holes, I discovered the 1/16" drill bit that come with my kit from radio shack was too flippin large! I appreciate the help everyone provided and can now make PCB's without sending away for them. It's a real sense of pleasure to see a finished product that you know you made.
The link provided with the laser printer/iron on PCB tutorial worked wonderfully. The only issue that I ran into was when I started drilling my holes, I discovered the 1/16" drill bit that come with my kit from radio shack was too flippin large! I appreciate the help everyone provided and can now make PCB's without sending away for them. It's a real sense of pleasure to see a finished product that you know you made.
Joe,I would recommend that you buy a cheap 6" digital micrometer, I was lucky I had one, they are most useful for measuring the leads of all your components. Only then can you be sure you drill the correct size holes. They are also handy when making custom components and many other things.
Look at ebay for carbide PCB drills, they are brittle and break easily if not used in some kind of high speed a drill press.
I drill most of my holes with a .033 drill. It works well for IC socket pins and most other components. The strip headers are a tight fit but they do not fall out when soldering. Screw terminals and a few other connectors need a larger hole. I enlarge the .033 holes using a HSS drill bit cramed in a x-acto knife handle (make shift pin vice).
If you use parts that have .005 inch pitch you will need to use a smaller drill.