PCB making

[SupeR-NovA]

Hi all, i'd like to make a PCB, but ofcourse with no knowledge about that topic, it will be like hitting my head against the wall...
so here are a few questions:
1) what program should i use to draw my schematic?
2) what kind of paper should i print it on?
3) what kind of etch should i use?
thank's for your help :lol:

 

[crust]

You can use the free version of Eagle or use expresspcb. Then for printing and etch, unless your board is not too complicated, send it out to a board house, you can get a set of boards for much less than $100US now.

 

[Russlk]

You need a drawing program that allows you to set line width, I use Autosketch. You can print on any paper, but photo quality will give best results. Some people print on glossy paper with a laser printer (or copy the design with a laser copier), then transfer the design to copper clad using an iron. I print on pre-pasted wallpaper then sandwitch the design and copper clad between two pieces of glass using spring clamps and place it in the oven at 400 degrees F for 10 minutes. After it cools, I set the copper clad and wallpaper in warm water until the paper floats off. I get best results using a piece of felt between the wallpaper and glass in the sandwitch.

You can buy ferric chloride etching solution from Radio Shack. Put the copper clad with the design in the solution until only the traces are left. The time required will depend on the temperature and how many times you have used it.

After drilling, use a Brillo pad to scrub the board clean.

 

[pike]

I spray a mixture and clay onto a overhead transperancy and leave it to dry. Then just print on with laser, iron, peel off, etch and protect.

 

[Hivolt]

I have made boards for many years, what I will discribe turns out very good quality and also allows making double sided boards that line up properly. One can use any number of pc drafting programs, there are shareware versions that work well for small to moderate boards, for example PADS PC ( a little old but fairly easy to learn ) but there are many others.

I use the photo method, I print my artwork onto transparencies designed for either laser or inkjet printers ( these are specially treated and must be printed on the proper side). I buy pre-sensitized "positive resist" pc board, lay the transparency on top, lay on a sheet of glass ,and exposure to UV light ( you can buy a single tube light for about $25). A standard 15W tube at a height of 1 1/2" will take about 1- 1 1/2 minutes ( do not stare at light source !, walk away for a while ). Once exposed, you develope with positive resist developer, the excess resist washes away and you are left with the pattern for etching. I use ammonium persulfate for etching, it works well and does not stain like ferric chloride ( as with any etchant it works best if warm, the ammonium persulfate I buy is in crystal form so I just mix it with hot water) after the etching is done rinse the board under cool water for a minute. The left over resist can be cleaned off with a solvent of a "Fine" Scotch-Brite pad.

Doing a double sided board is the same except lay both transparencies together, line them up, and remember that they must be opposed so one side doesn't become mirrored. Tape the two sheets together on 2 sides and slide your un-exposed board between an secure with a strip of tape so it doesn't move while handeling ( especially flipping it during exposure)

The process takes a little practice but can reveal excellent results. You can get all the basic materials for less than $100.00 which will make a number of boards. As a finishing touch you can buy "liquid Tin" to plate the finished boards for a real professional job. My best results come from using MG brand chemicals and GC brand presensitised boards ( no ad intended )

Use gloves, protect you eyes, and follow the safe handeling of the chemicals.

 

[SupeR-NovA]

thank's to all of you!
i learned a great deal from you, but also searched google and some websites and found a few links, which describe the process from A to Z
i'll put them here so other "PCB newbie's" can use them

**broken link removed**

**broken link removed**

thank's again!

 

[pike]

for tinning don't use the "tinnit" stuff that comes in a solution, instead soak a piece of solder braid with melted solder and drag this braid over the copper tracks while heating it with the soldering iron. This gives some pretty decent results and protects the copper from oxidising.

have fun.