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PCB Etching Solutions needed

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iONic

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I'd like a innexpensive method of creating PCB's but am not wanting to go the
Stick-on method. anyone know what the possibilities are?
 
**broken link removed**
Don't worry about the glossy paper too much, I use magazine paper but I've been told that normal printer paper works.
 
Hero999 said:
**broken link removed**
Don't worry about the glossy paper too much, I use magazine paper but I've been told that normal printer paper works.

VERY NICE, Hero999 --both the boards look pretty GOOD
when you say magazine paper--can assume paper like what is used for RS Components Catalog (THE PAPER IS VERY THIN.) I fear that it would get jammed in the laser printer??

Incidentally some one quoted polyester film used for generating the Numberplates for vehicles. the numbers are cut by a cutting ploter and later stuck to the perspex(acrylic) sheet and thereafter supported by another foil to cover it.

I am told that they are using Corel Draw for this work. i could not be supported for pcb design cutting as they want data on coreldraw format.
Could you tho some light, as this film is free from acid corrosion .
 
Warning: Large Image of PCB

It depends on what sort of definition you need. If you are only going to do easy stuff then regular paper will work. Else go with .

The Following is from the PulsarProFx website.
**broken link removed**
 
Circuit Specialists sells positive resist coated pcb stock. I get consistent results down to 8 mills. You print the artwork on a transparency and use that to expose the coating. 1 1/2 mins of UV or 8 mins in sunlight does the exposure.
 
mvs sarma said:
VERY NICE, Hero999 --both the boards look pretty GOOD
when you say magazine paper--can assume paper like what is used for RS Components Catalog (THE PAPER IS VERY THIN.) I fear that it would get jammed in the laser printer??
The RS catalogue is probably a bit thin, the stuff most magazines in your local newsagent are printed on.

Don't wory about the paper too much, another member here has used normal printer paper and it worked very well.
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/ultra-clean-9vdc-power-supply-project.28568/

For high definition I recommend the UV photo process though, there isn't much that can touch it.

3v0,
Is the green coating just for show or is it real solder resist?
 
Hardest part is this. I have tried in many occasions. Hard to remove the remaining paper. Must do it very carefully with a brush or with thumb pressure after soaking.
**broken link removed**
His diagram is ok but if you making a circuit with lot of IC’s with closer pin gaps its hard to remove the remaining stuff. Must do it very carefully.
 
Hero999 said:
...............
Don't wory about the paper too much, another member here has used normal printer paper and it worked very well.
https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/ultra-clean-9vdc-power-supply-project.28568/

.............3v0,
Is the green coating just for show or is it real solder resist?

Thanks Hero999
i too was trying but the fibre content in the normal paper is so much, that on the process of paper removal, the carbon comes out and we have to adopt to marker pen. now thiese marker pens , though very gine, they smudge and spoil the artwork..

In India we get a paer called deSmat inkjet paper with one side coated. they are very costly compared to normal xerox paper,
even then the labor of clearing the holes area by manually clearing the paper rag is a must.

even thogh, there is a 'electrovalue RP20' photoresist positive spay in asian market as aerosol spay, I could not locate one in India-- and this helps in photo process .
Thanks for your suggestions, in the mean time.
 
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The results you get are based mostly on four things.

1. You can only get a transfer as good as your laser printer will print. It is said that refilled or non OEM toner cartridges have less plastic in the toner and that they do not work as well.

2. Getting the toner to stick to what you print it on (the paper).

3. Getting it to come off what you print it on (the paper).

4. Getting it to stick to the copper.

It pays to be very very careful keep you hands/fingers clean and not to touch either the paper or the copper.

The process works much much better if you use a paper with a release agent. As mentioned many times I prefer to buy this coated paper. But you can make Dextrin coated paper yourself. See to get started on that. Google after that.

It looks like the coating is or is similar to tapioca pudding?
 
Hi 3V0,

WOW, own made dextrin coated papers-- i will be silent and be back after a week doing some homework dear. Impressive in fact.
 
It seems they have a problem with the paper warping. You might want to try coating a transparancy (laserjet) with the Dextrin.

Using a transparancy would make alignment of the pattern with the hole extra easy (talking DS boards here).
 
I imagine it will work just as well with PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) glue.
 
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