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Panasonic plasma fried???

Thread starter #1
Okay so I have a 52 inch Panasonic Viera plasma tv, a couple of weeks ago we had an electrical storm which ended with my tv getting zapped. It was connected to a surge protector, so I really don't understand why it ended up they way it did, but it did. Anyways, so now when I go to turn it on it powers up fine, but then immediately shuts off after the first couple of seconds and the red light blinks. Wondering if this could be the motherboard, I know after surges it could be a number of things, but I want Ro narrow it down to a general area so I can fix it!
 
#2
If you don't have a warantee (extended or otherwise) on the TV (or it doesn't cover such damage), do you know if the surge protector has one (some do, some don't)? Also, have you talked to your insurance agent (homeowners if you have it; renter's insurance likely wouldn't cover it). I don't have any repair advice, unfortunately, but you should look into seeing if you can get it repaired or replaced before you try to "fix" it (and possibly lose whatever possible damage claim you might have). Good luck...
 

tunedwolf

Well-Known Member
#3
If Lightning struck the antenna, the game's up...
If you just had ground bounce due to a nearby strike, the most likely boards damaged will be either the power board, or one of the SUS boards, with the power board being the most likely. Either way, not the cheapest repair...

rgds
 

Zephar

New Member
#4
Trying to start a new thread, But don’t see a way to do this as a new member. Like some other forms you have to wait a day or so to get approved
I’ll start my entering information here which is the only allowable thing I can find, so please forgive my naïve attempts to start a thread on my particular problem which seems to be very prominent problem and I am so tired of all these sites to get taken to her you have to give your credit card in order to get an answer to a simple question. This seems to be the site I’ve been looking for, and surely hope it is so here goes, and wish me luck.
Problem - Panasonic plasma 2011 P55ST30 55 inch 3-D TV with amazing picture:

•14 red blinks in standby mode, no picture/no sound, on a Panasonic plasma P55ST30 lead me to the conclusion to exchange out the P board which I did but did not fix. Further reading suggests the A board was the most likely and ordered this board recently. More readings suggests the SU/SC boards as well, and others also mention the SS board, which I think means the sustain board, Which is located in the upper right looking from the back of the TV set with the back off. It is January 2019 and wondered if anybody had any suggestions as there seems to be quite a few folks with the same problem and the 14 red blinks seems to be a new code, or at least a lesser known number of blinks, which I find surprising as it seems to be the most common problem with this particular TV set. It has a lovely picture even though 1080 and magnificence 3-D effect if the 3-D movie is a good one like Avatar, which astounded most everybody at the time back in 2011 when I Purchased this TV set for I think around $1700. Now I have a TLC Roku 65 inch 4K HDR TV which is amazing for the money at $600 from Costco. A week earlier I had purchased a new LG OLED 65 inch which was nearly $3000 more and had an amazing picture, absolute blacks; but LG’s Interface on their TVs, After selling them for over three years, I never particularly liked. And I absolutely hated the Sony interphase, although it had the best repair record and excellent picture. My favorite was always the Panasonic and Samsung and for a plasma TV The Panasonic gave the best picture, the best blacks and no issues with refresh rate and the only con being the heat generated, and of course Unknowingly at that time it was going to be put on the shelf permanently after learning Panasonic shutting down its largest plasma facility about a year later which astounded me. However, the heat generated I thought not as bad as people seemed to think in general as thr heat generated is from the front because that’s where the picture is generated and an LED TV heat is generated on the back from the edge or back lighting. The technology was clearly going in the direction of the LED which contradicted everything that I believed at the time, as there were were ridiculously expensive still after a number of years of research and development with a little change in pricing, And nothing larger than a small control board for various like Tronic devices. Now it will eventually be OLED I suspect and the QLED from Sansung just being a temporary selling point, some thing more than not to be significantly different from the other LED TV sets. I recall the first significantly sized OLED TV, the first being an 11” Sony selling at $2500 back in 2012 I believe. now we have a 65 inch for around $3200, so progress is being made significantly. Apparently the problem with the blue OLED burning out early has been nearly solved.

I’m still determined to get my $1700 Panasonic plasma TV set up and running again although I am loving this TLC Roku HDR 4K TV, and the edge lighting barely noticeable, although I will have to say that The OLED did give a better picture but not $3000 better. I used The OLED for one week and returned it with buyers remorse, and having two friends working the electronics division they recommended that TLC TV and subsequently it seems to of been the Best Buy of all the TVs out there at this time. If money is an issue for you.

Back to the 14 blinks and any information one might afford me to solve my adventure of repairing my $1700 2011 55 inch plasma TV sorely missed with no picture and no sound and with a red light that blinks 14 times in standby and a steady red light otherwise. Has anyone had any luck in resetting the TV using their remote as explained in various places on the Internet? When I read this I thought I really found a solution, and easy one, as I fixed a Yamaha receiver that went blank after a thunderstorm and pushing about 4-5 buttons at the same time in a certain sequence reset the unit from his safety off mode, and now it’s up and running perfectly again. I thought for sure I had come to the solution as easy as this, but unfortunately here we are.
Best,
Zephar
 

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