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Need help with my car security system

Hey I’ve been having issues with my Clifford G4 Prime Level 2 security system and was wondering if anybody would be able to give me some more information. Whats been happening is my car went into anti-theft or possibly even immobilizer mode and I cant get it out, unfortunately I’m not very mechanically inclined as I’ve only recently started working on cars more myself however I tried to unplug the Clifford main unit and plug it back in to possibly reset it and now my car is throwing up a battery light and oil light, which I know I have no other issues with my car (2000 honda civic si b20 engine swap running si ecu still) and the alarm also stopped working. I’m assuming this is a killswitch thats triggered when the security system really thinks its been stolen? Anyways my question is if anybody knows clifford car security systems could they give me a hand? I’d like to disconnect the thing completely if its going to cause problems and if anybody knows does this possibly mean its being faulty and i should upgrade? Before i unplugged anything my key fob would only register the panic button and to the lock door if the alarm went off, which even putting my key into ignition let it set the alarm off. If you need any more info let me know, would like to ideally fix myself but if I have to take to a professional then that’s understandable!! Can provide pictures later
 

narkeleptk

Active Member
Just pull the dash down Under the steering area you will see the aftermarket setup very easily simply follow these wires and remove them all. They areusually just tied into your OEM wires but sometimes they will Bridge certain one like the start signal.
these ones you will need to splice back together.
 
Sounds good, I’ve got everything apart already and ready to be disassembled, just thought i’d ask a second opinion. So after taking it out and splicing the certain wires back together, is it possible to have any further issues from doing so? (Given I do it correctly) but the car would function normally but without a security system right? Thanks again for helping, very appreciated
 

narkeleptk

Active Member
No issue's if done correct. Make sure to tape up skinned wires and use butt connectors with heat shrink for anything that was cut. Will function better honestly. Aftermarket alarms tend to cause odd problems quite often. If you had a remote start, open up the larger of the aftermarket boxes, you may find a nice surprise in it (spoiler: spare transponder key) unless its a new system and uses an emulator instead.
Its usually a fairly easy fix. The oem wiring is color coded and very distinguishable from the hacked in aftermarket alarm kit. Worst part is the awkward position of laying in floor board while doing much of the work,
 
Awesome thanks again for the quick responses, going to start after the rain is gone and see what I can do, I talked to a guy in town as well who said for 100$ he’ll remove it and make sure the car is running so worse comes to worse I’ll have him look over it, anyways have a good day! Drive safe
 

KeepItSimpleStupid

Well-Known Member
Most Helpful Member
What can cause you a lot of grief is the immobilizer system whatever that may be.

Here's a manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/753789/Clifford-Prime-Level-Two.html?page=4#manual

The immobilizer could interface with the starter or at least that's the old way. With newer vehicle it might interface with the RFID key system which is much more complicated.

So, just disconnecting the alarm connector would typically not allow the car to start, because the relay is set normally open. The imobilizer wiring is where things get tricky.

That's what you have to concentrate on.

If there is an RFID key and remote start involved, then there may be a real key hidden somewhere.
 

KeepItSimpleStupid

Well-Known Member
Most Helpful Member
I tried to unplug the Clifford main unit and plug it back in to possibly reset it and now my car is throwing up a battery light and oil light, which I know I have no other issues with my car
Don't do it thigh the connector. Either remove the fuse or disconnect the battery.

When fiddling, remember orange wires are typically air bag circuits. They are active doe sometime after the ignition is turned off. e.g . 20 minutes

I have a "trick" up my sleave which doesn't always work, but it's worth doing. Write down your radio pre-sets if they are retained by battery.

You would want to disconnect the battery. Wait 20 minutes after retained power shuts down or a safe air-bag time with the doors closed.

Take a small wire and short the car side of the battery cable only with no cable connected to the battery for 5 to 10 minutes.

Remove the jumper and when you connect the battery back up do the initial connection quickly. no wiggling of the connector.

I fixed a $325.00 clock that way. The clock went south after the car was jumped. I know why the method works. That one was harder.

Connecting the fuse to ground that powers the alarm system with the battery disconnected is even better.
 
What can cause you a lot of grief is the immobilizer system whatever that may be.

Here's a manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/753789/Clifford-Prime-Level-Two.html?page=4#manual

The immobilizer could interface with the starter or at least that's the old way. With newer vehicle it might interface with the RFID key system which is much more complicated.

So, just disconnecting the alarm connector would typically not allow the car to start, because the relay is set normally open. The imobilizer wiring is where things get tricky.

That's what you have to concentrate on.

If there is an RFID key and remote start involved, then there may be a real key hidden somewhere.
Thank you for finding that manual I don’t know why I couldn’t find it, also thanks for the suggestions as well! You guys are super helpful on this forum!!
 

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