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My new Pic Developement Board

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MrDEB

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Been working on this for awhile. Originally was to have an 18 pin as well as 40 pin sockets.
Daughter board plugs into headers and is comparable with the TAP-28
ThrowAwayPIC
or at least I am pretty sure it is. Used the basic design added more LEDs, a dip switch so solder jumpers are not needed.
I know it isn't pretty and it checks out electrically so hopefully it ALL works. Most of the headers are new salvage (brown ones)
Now just need to figure out how to use the JUNEBUG to connect to the UART plug on my PDB-40 (the UART plug is connected =
RB1(int1) / 5+ / grd/RC6(TX)/ RCC7(RX) / RB2(int2)
**broken link removed**
**broken link removed**
**broken link removed**
 
Its pretty in an ugly sort of way.

You made it yourself, so that is pretty enough.

What was your final cost?
 
Dude what happened to that board? It looks like you did a toner transfer or photo way but then something happened. Those lines look straight and circles are too perfect to be done by hand...

Its even double sided. It looks cool tho. Reminds me of my first custom boards. i even have one i made with a Fat Tip sharpie OMG its ugly but works like a charm.

Its kinda like having the ugly kid in your family but he/she is smart as hell lol
 
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It is a toner transfer but I changed toner cartridges about a month ago and for some reason I get smudges here and there. With the toner cartridge I had the transfer paper came out GREAT. Nice straight lines, NO SMUDGES. Very clean. I even did some .006 traces that came out clean.
After printing then laminating pattern to board I ended up having to touch up the traces here and there. NEVER had to with previous cartridge.
It prints on paper pretty good so I don't think its a dirty something?
Before doing any more boards I hope to solve the problem without using to much toner transfer paper.
Oh yea I couldn't find my extra fine sharpi at first so some of the traces are way to big and not very straight.
About the only thing that worked really well was the alignment of the traces from one side to the other.
Contemplating on making another board IF I have some 2x copper. If not going to etch a daughter board for an LCD and another for a MAX6675 temperature compensation chip (used for thermocouplers)
Yea its one ugly board with lots of mistakes dealing with the traces. Thinking of moving the ADC/SERVO (A0 &A1 ports) over more to the left of the header. Might eliminate half of the LEDs(have the red LEDs for a LOW port and green LEDs for a HIGH port output.) Re-thinking that idea.(I wanted to determine the state of the ports RA2-RA5 HIGH or LOW?
 
Is it a Refill Toner? I hear bad things about refills but i have not ran into a issue yet! i use refilled toner and it works 100% for me.

Maybe its a FUSER issue i think thats what its called. The fuser is the heating element. Also remember regular paper soaks up toner better. The Toner Transfer paper is more glossy than anything perhaps smudges due to that?
 
MrDeb Looks Great for the first one glade to see it. Well did your test code work when you put the pic in it.
 
This is not my first pcboard but the first one after I replaced my toner cartridge. I tried getting the HP toolbox but no luck. Went to the PULSAR website and found a link to some down loadable software to be able to configure the printer settings including density. Anxious to try another board as the configuration software showed the density set to 3 not 5 as it was with previous cartridge.
Started designing a daughter board to test out the new settings. MOST of my previous boards are very nice crisp traces with no mistakes.I worked out all the bugs with old toner cartridge in use. Its frustrating to have a wrench in the works. As for testing the pictured board, located a test sequence over at Digital Electronics Forum • View topic - A TAP-28 Rev A Test Program. Have yet to rework for a 4520 pic.
 
What printer you use? I use the HP P1006...

printer-jpg.48684
 

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using an HP Laserjet 1320 that I got for FREE with a toner cartridge that had 58% of toner still in it.
I got a link to printer configuration settings from PULSAR site
victechsoftware.com | LJConfig
now just need to make a board using a higher #5 print density. I guess when I changed toner cartridges it reset the density back to 3. Also changed the dpi from 1200 back to 600
Working on a daughter board but going to use a ribbon cable as the LCD display is bigger so it covers the ICSP header
 
I use the HP P1006...

Hi Atomsoft,

Just wanted to ask how you find that 1006 printer for toner tansfers - does it work OK with magazine / glossy paper or do you only use the Pulsar stuff

Ever tried it on to tracing paper or similar for use in the UV lamps or UV Leds ?

thanks.
 
Good luck MrDEB !

My P1006 is awesome. I get perfect prints all the time. I use both Toner Transfer and Magazine paper. Both with great results.
I stopped doing the UV way because i got tired of waiting the 30minutes under the light heh...
 
My P1006 is awesome. I get perfect prints all the time. I use both Toner Transfer and Magazine paper. Both with great results.
I stopped doing the UV way because i got tired of waiting the 30minutes under the light heh...

Thanks Atomsoft, sounds like its a good printer for pcbs, unlike many of todays cheaper printers, though will have to look around as it seems the 1006 is now discontinued.
30mins for UV ...? - I do mine in 4 mins using cheap uv leds .
 
I have yet to find a HP laser that does not work. But as they get cheaper with each new model that may not last. I have both a 1020 and a 1006 and the 1020 is a lot heavier.

The 1200dpi is a bit of a fraud on these two printers. It is only in the X direction and is emulated/simulated/not real.
 
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heh i used bulbs and never had perfect results because i either left it too long or not long enough heh. I got tired of trying to figure out the best time and stuck with Toner Transfer. I do have a bunch of Developer and Resist that you have to laminate on left. Maybe ill resell it online or simply try again heh..

If you can, i would love some tips on that UV leds. Like how many and such
 
We were using UV resist years ago and was quite happy to ditch it for toner.

Some of the early work with toner was not as good as UV. Now what you can do is limited by the printer rather then the transfer process.

Why do you want to give it another try ? Maybe just one of the things you want to get right ? That I can understand.

Now days if one wants a perfect PCB have it make. Save the DIY stuff for the prototypes.
 
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yeah. I plan on making VIAs using that Defroster method:


Seems like it may work well!... Just for vias tho. I dont care for plated through hole. its not needed. But if i can fill vias QUICK and EASY then i can do double sided boards HAPPY!!

I will most likely never get a board made by a FAB house unless i plan to sell it :D

3v0: yeah i cant live with myself knowing i really quit something without trying my best.

Wp100: what is your name?

Thanks for the PDF it looks good!
 
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