My first PCB

[Marks256]

I just about got my eeprom programmer done(pics later). I want to solder it together, but veroboard is freakishly time consuming...

How would i make my own PCB? I am going to order from jameco again soon, and i think they sell kits.

What do i need for tools? I have read a few on here(electro-tech) before, but never really payed attention. I think i remember reading something about printing the board off, and then ironing it on, or something like that?

The programmer consists of 3 flip/flops, a few caps, i think i will add a few transistors for stability, and possibly a ZIF socket and a DB25 connector, so i dont think this is TOO difficult.

Thanks!

 

[mramos1]

Do you have a laser printer (toner)? From there an iron and drill you can get there.

 

[ikalogic]

i really recommend the toner transfere method. its the cheapest way, and i've managed to do it with normal a4 paper (no any specialy glossy paper needed). and i've made 100's of pcb for friends and for money!

 

[ljcox]

I have collected some of the posts for future reference.

I'll leave you to evaluate & sort them.

 

[Gayan Soyza]

i really recommend the toner transfere method. its the cheapest way, and i've managed to do it with normal a4 paper (no any specialy glossy paper needed). and i've made 100's of pcb for friends and for money!

I Tried toner transfer method to normal A4 papers but it gave a poor quality.normally I'm printing on transparent sheets (projector papers) it gives some satisfactory but i have to ovewrite the tracks by a Permanent Marker before etching (Ironing).it takes time.

I'd like to know how u doing by normal A4 papers?How u transfering the layout to the board without losing any ink on the paper.

Thankx

 

[Hayato]

The best papers to make the Toner Transfer are:
Glossy Paper and Couchè Paper.

Couchè paper are those used in those glossy ads / catalog pages.

Remember, both papers need to be medium or high density, otherwise it won't work.

 

[ikalogic]

I Tried toner transfer method to normal A4 papers but it gave a poor quality.normally I'm printing on transparent sheets (projector papers) it gives some satisfactory but i have to ovewrite the tracks by a Permanent Marker before etching (Ironing).it takes time.

I'd like to know how u doing by normal A4 papers?How u transfering the layout to the board without losing any ink on the paper.

Thankx

well, i prepare the copper board carefully before ironing the layout on it.

here is the sequence i use :

1-cut the board with 1 or .5 cm spare on the 4 sides, as heats usualy concentrate in the middle and is less at the end of the board.
2- scratch the board with sand paper, in 2 orthoogonal directions, till it brigh and shiny
3-use a clean towel and some organique solvant (i use "thinner"), and pass it on the board, each time changing with a new towel, until the towel is clean after you pass in on the board.
4-simply start the ironing process, taking less than 5 min with a 10X10 board.
5- leave the board with the paper on it in a bath of hot water for 5 or 10 min (preferably with some soab in the water)
6-remouve the paper by peeling it off, then with a tooth brush but try to be gentle using it!.

this is how i do it for more than 2 years now.

you have to adjust your printer the the maximum ink density.. (but i am sure you allready figured this out)
hope this help.

 

[Hero999]

Couchè paper are those used in those glossy ads / catalog pages.

So that's what it's called, I just call it magazine paper.

I'll try normal A4 paper but I don't think it'll work and I don't see the point when it costs money whilst Couchè paper is free.

 

[justDIY]

the community is always quick to respond to the new user with the remark "just consult google"

let not us old-hands and familar users forget our own advice.

this forum has a search feature, and the "best way for pcb fabrication" debate has raged numerous times, with toner transfer always getting rave reviews from peanut gallery.

 

[Overclocked]

I use staples photopaper. I use my regular Inkjet to print on normal paper at the Highest Quality, then I run it though this laser printer which has a copier. Strangly, Even though most guides say to use the Glossy Side of the Photo paper, I found that your supposed to use the matte side (non glossy side) to do PCBs.

I found it out by accident when I was getting sticky goo all over the Iron, so I tried it on the stick side and it works. Once you have the PCB on the photo paper you just align it with your PCB, have the iron on the highest setting (I use water, Dont know if it makes a difference or not) and just press down hard. OH did mention you should have the PCB aligned with the PCB board with tape or something? If you dont, your PCB might come out crooked.

Then give it about 5 Minutes (move the iron around the board applying uniform pressure, but not so much that you rip the paper). Maybe give it 2 or 3 Minutes more Just to be safe. Once thats done you can use soap and some hot water to remove the paper. Ive found that if you peel one corner and put some dishwashing soap on to that open corner and allow it to seap in, the paper will be easy to remove. Ive also found that rubbing it onto the paper itself also helps. Remove the paper slowly under warm water.

Inspect for any damages to the board. Use a sharpie to repair any tracks that didnt come out. However, Maybe its me or my method or my tracks are too thin, sometimes they look fine after the paper is removed, but then when I etch it, some of the tracks start getting etched away.

 

[Marks256]

...this forum has a search feature, and the "best way for pcb fabrication" debate has raged numerous times, with toner transfer always getting rave reviews from peanut gallery.

Ha ha ha! Lol! You actually think that would work? I am not even going to try it, and will be able to predict the results;

The words "way for PCB" will be "too short". Yeah, great find feature...

Now do you understand why i asked? Oh, and i am lazy, and this isn't for school, so i expected friendly responses. I guess i never did try google though... I will give that a go and maybe find a tutorial...

 

[Rolf]

Making PCB link:

Ha ha ha! Lol! You actually think that would work? I am not even going to try it, and will be able to predict the results;

The words "way for PCB" will be "too short". Yeah, great find feature...

Now do you understand why i asked? Oh, and i am lazy, and this isn't for school, so i expected friendly responses. I guess i never did try google though... I will give that a go and maybe find a tutorial...

I really don't know why I am Googling for you........
This might be what you are looking for: **broken link removed**
It even has lots of pictures!

 

[mramos1]

I have collected some of the posts for future reference.

I'll leave you to evaluate & sort them.

I like Mike's method.

Nice collection, so now if someone else asks, they are all here.

 

[mramos1]

well, i prepare the copper board carefully before ironing the layout on it.

here is the sequence i use :

1-cut the board with 1 or .5 cm spare on the 4 sides, as heats usualy concentrate in the middle and is less at the end of the board.
2- scratch the board with sand paper, in 2 orthoogonal directions, till it brigh and shiny
3-use a clean towel and some organique solvant (i use "thinner"), and pass it on the board, each time changing with a new towel, until the towel is clean after you pass in on the board.
4-simply start the ironing process, taking less than 5 min with a 10X10 board.
5- leave the board with the paper on it in a bath of hot water for 5 or 10 min (preferably with some soab in the water)
6-remouve the paper by peeling it off, then with a tooth brush but try to be gentle using it!.

this is how i do it for more than 2 years now.

you have to adjust your printer the the maximum ink density.. (but i am sure you allready figured this out)
hope this help.

I do that but put a paper towel over the paper and copper board. And I now use (like Hayato said) business glossy paper (like in an ad).

No tooth brush for me anymore (PCB wise).

EDIT: JustDIY ljcox did put together a nice set of links though.

 

[Andy1845c]

Search for "toner transfer". You'll get a bunch of PCB topics. One has some good discussion on drilling the holes.

I'm thinking about trying it too.

 

[Marks256]

I really don't know why I am Googling for you........

I didn't ask, but thanks. That is a very nice site, and i am going to add it to my favourites now. I am going to see if i can afford a kit from jameco...

What do you guys use to make you patterns? Eagle?

 

[Marks256]

Would this be something to get?

https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/s...01&catalogId=10001&pa=70412CM&productId=70412

It is in my price range, and it looks cool...

 

[Andy1845c]

Would this be something to get?

https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/s...01&catalogId=10001&pa=70412CM&productId=70412

It is in my price range, and it looks cool...

Wouldn't you want to lay out the components with a computer though? That looks to me like stickers you stick on the copper board and connect with tape. Sounds annoying to me.

I haven't done a PCB yet, so I don't know any more then you do about it but, do you really need a kit? Can't you just buy the copper board and ferric chloride? Or am I missing somthing?

 

[justDIY]

just buy a bottle of etchant from the shack and some photo paper from office max and you've got everything you need. I guess if the wife is fussy, you could grab some rubbermade nock-offs from the dollar store for holding the liquids, that way you don't get an ear full about the "good dishes"

i'll toss my 'wisdom' regarding my preferred method in the ring as well:

pictures
https://projects.dimension-x.net/archives/82

theory
https://projects.dimension-x.net/archives/77

 

[justDIY]

Wouldn't you want to lay out the components with a computer though? That looks to me like stickers you stick on the copper board and connect with tape. Sounds annoying to me.

I haven't done a PCB yet, so I don't know any more then you do about it but, do you really need a kit? Can't you just buy the copper board and ferric chloride? Or am I missing somthing?

I thought that was the whole point of this post, how to do it on the computer.

Andy's right, that kit looks like a pain the the arse. not to mention powered etchant is awful stuff