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Multimeter Requirements

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dlt123

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Hello, I've been reading posts here for a while and after reading some interesting threads, I've decided seriously take the plunge to learn Electronics.

I've recently purchased "Getting starting in Electronics" by Forrest Mims and am starting to learn this subject.

I've just recently purchased a Hakko 936-12 solder station and I'm now looking to buy a Multimeter... But I really don't know what to look for in a good meter. i.e. what does one really need in a meter that is also not too cost prohibitive or has options you never use?

I realize my needs may change over time, so I don't want to buy one now only to find that it will not do what I need later or is deficient in some manner.

So, what do I need to know or consider when purchasing a Multimeter?

Also, I'm far from rich, but don't mind spending a little more for a good product if warranted. Any recommendations or insights?

Is hand held v.s. desktop preferred or is this a personal matter of taste?

Is buying a used older Multimeter a good idea or should you buy a newer hand held or desktop unit? If considering a used unit, are there things that one needs to know before buying?

Ebay has a lot of used older desktop MM and some look very tempting price wise.

Any help is greatly appreciated... i.e. other threads, links, tutorials on picking a Multimeter or other equipment, etc....

Thanks,
Dennis
 
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Hi Dennis,

here is a multifunction DMM with built in oscilloscope. It is manufactured by Uni-Trend, Hong Kong. Type name is UT81B.

I guess it is very useful concerning signal tracking. The built-in scope is not the best concerning focus, but the monitor-display via software (USB) is OK.

The USB adapter slips over the enclosure for IR-transmission (no pins to bend and no corrosion as well)

It features autoranging from µV/µA to 750V AC/DC and 10A max current measurement.

The oscilloscope has a max input frequency of 10MHz and should suffice even for applications using an MCU.

I don't know the overseas price. In Thailand I spent 9,500 Thai Baht (US$270).

If you are interested check out: https://www.uni-trend.com

No pricing on the website and no direct sales.

Regards

Boncuk
 

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More expensive units generally have more accuracy and more ranges. But even the cheapest multimeter will usually have sufficient accuracy for most hobby needs so that's generally not a factor.

Desktop versus handheld is partially preference and partially performance. The desktop units typically are more accurate with more digits but operate from line AC. Handhelds are battery powered.

One thing I like is a unit that measures capacitance (and perhaps inductance) along with voltage, current, and resistance, which some units do (although that typically adds to the price). If you're comparing units with this feature, look for the one that has the widest range of measurement.

If you buy a battery powered handheld, get one with auto-poweroff. I've killed several batteries because mine doesn't have that.

Certainly a know brand will have better accuracy and reliability but, of course, cost more. I would look for a known brand if you want to buy used (Fluke, HP, Tek. etc.). Otherwise used should be fine.
 
I am still partial to the Simpson 260 :)

But seriously, A Fluke or a HP handheld is a good choice.
 
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Multimeter Tip

Hi Dennis,

While most of us use digital multimeters, you would also do well to borrow or acquire an older analog multimeter for your initiation into electronics. A needle moving across a scale can prove far more intuitive than digits flashing in a display, especially when you're looking at a slowly changing voltage, current or resistance.

For example, I just built a simple light sensor circuit than uses a photoresistor. To watch the performance of this circuit, I will next connect a multimeter across the photoresistor's leads and watch the needle move back and forth in response to changes in light.

Forrest M. Mims III
Forrest M. Mims III
**broken link removed**
 
I am still partial to the Simpson 260 :)

Ah, a Simpson man. My Triplett 630-A might give your Simpson a run for its money.

But my Beckman DMMs (Tech 300, 3010, Tech 320B, RMS3030, and HD110T) are WAY newer than my Triplett.

Of course my Fluke 112 is WAY newer than my Beckmans...:)
 
More expensive units generally have more accuracy and more ranges. But even the cheapest multimeter will usually have sufficient accuracy for most hobby needs so that's generally not a factor.

I agree. What you need down the road depends in part the direction you go with the electronics. For now most any inexpensive meter is a good choice.
 
I purchased this meter last week just only for 8$.It meets my requirements & the readings were perfect.So why spending too much on the ranges that you will never go ?
 

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One needs two meters.

An analogue one (with moving meter pointer) to do troubleshooting and a digital DVM for measurement and calibration.
 
One needs two meters.

An analogue one (with moving meter pointer) to do troubleshooting and a digital DVM for measurement and calibration.

I agree with this, my old AVO model 8 still works well.
I know its only 20K/Volt, thats why on some hgh impedance circuits a DVM is better.
 
DMMs start at 5 Euros or $6. Often you want two meters anyway.
Buy a cheap one now. Get a fancy one later when you have more experience. Cheap analog VOMs can be found too.
 
Thank you

Thanks for the heads up and information... I think I will buy a cheap unit and will be looking at your suggestions...

I have a quick question, how do you know or test if your MM is accurate?

Dennis
 
Here is one I found on eBay... Might be more pricey than a cheaper unit, but what do you think of this?

* Professional quality portable handheld digital multimeter!
* Accurate, reliable, and ready for use!
* Easy to read 3 1/2 digit LCD display!
* Feels good in your hand!
* 30 ranges:
o Resistance: 200, 2 k, 20 k, 200 k, 2 M, 20 M Ohms
o Capacitance: 2000 pF, 20 nF, 200 nF, 2 uF, 20 uF
o DC Volts: 200 mV, 2 V, 20 V, 200 V, 1000 V
o DC Amps: 2 mA, 20 mA, 200 mA, 20 A
o AC Volts: 2 V, 20 V, 200 V, 700 V
o AC Amps: 200 mA, 20 A
o Frequency: 20 kHz
o Transistor hFE
o Continuity/Diode test (with beep)
o Temperature (Internal sensor): 0 to 40 C
o Temperature (Thermocouple): -50 to 1000 C
* Includes regular and thermocouple test leads!
* With instructions!
* Colorful retail box!
* Battery IS included!
* Very high accuracy!
* Fused for protection!
* Thermocouple socket!
* Low battery indicator!
* Meets CE requirements!
* Includes a fold-out stand!
* Self zeroing on all ranges!
* Pushbutton power switch!
* Auto power-off saves battery!
* With removable yellow holster!
* Transistor socket for hFE measurement!
* Bright yellow soft holster protects meter!
* Four standard banana jacks for test leads!
* Uses a standard 9 Volt rectangular battery!
* Capacitor socket for capacitance measurements!

It cost $23 plus $7 shipping... This link may not work after a while but here it is as of now...

**broken link removed**

Here is the sellers eBay Store:
**broken link removed**

Is this overpriced?

Dennis
 

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hi Dennis,
Looked at their website, its not a brand name I recognise, but the spec looks OK.
Price is a little high, how much looking around have you done.?

The only draw back I can see is that it dosn't have a sheep shearing attachment..:rolleyes:
 
hi Dennis,
Looked at their website, its not a brand name I recognise, but the spec looks OK.
Price is a little high, how much looking around have you done.?

The only draw back I can see is that it dosn't have a sheep shearing attachment..:rolleyes:

I've actually not looked around too much yet... I will continue to do more research.

Sheep shearing attachment??? :D

Dennis
 
Hi Dennis,

While most of us use digital multimeters, you would also do well to borrow or acquire an older analog multimeter for your initiation into electronics. A needle moving across a scale can prove far more intuitive than digits flashing in a display, especially when you're looking at a slowly changing voltage, current or resistance.

For example, I just built a simple light sensor circuit than uses a photoresistor. To watch the performance of this circuit, I will next connect a multimeter across the photoresistor's leads and watch the needle move back and forth in response to changes in light.

Forrest M. Mims III
Forrest M. Mims III
**broken link removed**

Boy, after reading ecerfoglio's post, I just realized who your are... :eek: Thanks for the feedback and your popular Electronic Book...

Dennis
 
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Hi Dennis,

While most of us use digital multimeters, you would also do well to borrow or acquire an older analog multimeter for your initiation into electronics. A needle moving across a scale can prove far more intuitive than digits flashing in a display, especially when you're looking at a slowly changing voltage, current or resistance.

...snip...

Forrest M. Mims III
Forrest M. Mims III
**broken link removed**

Hey wow! I agree with this, and finally have a chance to say thanks for a wonderful series of small books which I learned a lot from! I remember, as a youth, when I read this series sold by radio shack the material was presented in a simple and easy to understand way. Thanks!:)

Regards,
Robert
 
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