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Mazda B2600 full propane conversion.

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tcmtech

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I thought I would share my latest hobby experiment and experiance with everyone so that hopefully some one may also learn somthing new and possibly even usefull from it as well!

I picked up a 1987 Mazda B2600 extended cab 4x4 for $200 a while back with what the owner thought was a bad engine due to his having very little mechanical skills or knowledge. :D


Some of you may already know I have been custom building and running dual fuel systems on my pickups for many years now but this is my first full buildup of a dedicated propane fueled engine.

What I started out with was a somewhat mechanically neglected 1987 Mazda B2600 extended cab 4x4 pickup. Originally it used an overly complicated and unreliable emissions compliant electronic carburetor system that was typical in the mid 1980’s. That particular design Mazda used was impossible to tune properly or keep in tune and was an overall more of a waist of fuel and engine power than a gain to anything. What I did for the full propane conversion was to remove the entire emissions system from the truck and replace it with a simple single barrel vapor carburetor throttle body that came from an old propane powered combine engine I found at the scrap yard. All the old combine throttle body needed to work was some minor bolt pattern rework to make it physically compatible with a modern Woodward vapor mixer that attached to the top of it. It’s the same setup as the vapor carburetor systems used on propane powered forklifts.

To start out I removed everything that was emissions related in the vehicle, the smog pump, evaporative emissions control unit, the multiple vacuum control units and lines, the crappy electronic carburetor, the catalectic converter, and the rest of the rotted out and undersized exhaust system. All of this was reduced down to a simple all mechanical propane carburetor and vaporizer unit and the now unrestricted 2 inch exhaust system.

For the full propane conversion of an engine there is only one moderate mechanical modification that needed to be done and fortunately due to the previous owners neglect and all thumbs maintenance attempts this became the perfect vehicle for this type of conversion. At some point the previous owner overheated the engine and blew out the head gasket between the #3 and #4 cylinders but apparently decided to try and keep driving it until it burned a large gouge into the aluminum head. Once that happened the engine could no longer be repaired just by putting in a new head gasket. He decided to scrap the pickup which is where I found out about it and bought it for $200!

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The damaged aluminum head had a .065” deep blowout gouge that was only fixable by either welding it over or removing .065” of head face with a deep re facing job. The problem with that heavy of cut is it changes the engines normal 8.8:1 compression ratio and pushes it up so high that it can never effectively run on regular gasoline again.
This was perfect for me being that for propane a .065” cut would give me around 10.8:1 compression which would be a good start for a propane engine. I decided to go a little extra and had the head machined down .075” so that the compression would be in the 12:1 range with is super for propane operation!

After having the head work done I did run into the slight problem that occurs with chain driven overhead cam engines when they get considerable cuts taken off of the head. This heavy cut causes the timing chain to create a slight camshaft retarding effect due to having to take up the extra slack that is now present from the loss of material. To over come this I did a simple old school camshaft timing cheat and reworked the camshaft drive gear dowel pin hole into a short slot with my Dremel and a small carbide cutter.
With the .075” cut taken off the head the cam would have had an approximate 6 degree retarding effect from the added slack. But by re cutting the dowel pin hole it is possible to create an adjustable range from -6 to +6 degrees of crankshaft rotation. To make that modification work I threaded the dowel pin hole on the camshaft to fit a 1/4" grade 8 bolt in its place and cut that off just short of sticking all the way through the drive gear face. By doing this modification the camshaft still has a solid locator pin to keep its overall movement within the reworked gear slot where the original system had the fixed pin design.

On the Mazda 2.6L engines the distributor is driven off of a gear that goes on the front of the camshafts drive gear. It and the drive gear are all held in place by a single bolt that threads into the front end of the camshaft. To make sure the ignition timing stays correct I drilled a second dowel pin hole in the camshaft drive gear and relocated the distributor drive gears pin to that new position. This in itself does not pose a problem with the ignition timing as that is still determined by how the gear teeth line up when the distributor is reinstalled. By using a new fixed point for the drive gear pin on the camshaft the ignition timing will stay in a fixed relation to the crankshaft but the camshaft itself can be moved forward or backward in relation to the crankshaft and ignition timing.
Camshaft timing adjustment is very easy on this engine being the valve cover is held on with two bolts and the cam itself is easy to get a hold of from the back end when the cover is off. By loosening the front camshaft bolt I can then spin the cam slightly forward or backward in the range of the slot on the camshaft drive gear. By using the timing index on the crankshaft damper as a reference I can accurately readjust my cam timing up to 6 degrees forward or back from the stock position.

With the engine now set up for high compression propane operation I am now running with 9 degrees base ignition advance and +2 degrees camshaft advance. Advancing the camshaft timing puts more torque on the low RPM end while retarding it will put it toward the top end. A rough rule of thumb is 1 degree moves the peak torque point 100 RPM up or down. With the original emissions cam a slight advance of +2 degrees from stock is beneficial and has the effect of putting the peak torque slightly lower in the power band.

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The old single barrel combine throttle body did take some minor modifying and intake manifold rework to get it to fit but it was not hard. I made an adapter plate out of 3” x 4.5” x .5” aluminum stock. I drilled and tapped it to fit the old four bolt pattern the tiny two barrel electronic carburetor used then drilled a larger hole through the center that was just slightly larger than the throttle body throat. The throttle body I used only has two bolts holding it down so I drilled and tapped two holes in the adapter plate so it had a solid point to attach to.
After that it was just a matter of using a die grinder with an aluminum cutter to reshape and blend the transition from the single barrel throttle body down into the intake where the original two barrel carburetor once sat. This big single barrel vapor carburetor gives it about 50% more intake air flow capacity over the undersized two barrel which works well for getting more power due to simply having far less intake restriction.

The intake manifold does need several slight modifications for this engine which involves plugging several ports that are no longer needed or beneficial to a propane fuel system. The first is plugging EGR passages either by welding it shut or using JB weld epoxy. The same goes for several coolant circulation passages that where intended to heat the intake manifold and the old electronic carburetor.
What I did was clean up the ports and passages and block them off with healthy slugs of JB weld epoxy. There are two coolant feed ports and two coolant return ports that need to be blocked off. Also the EGR valve assembly needs to be removed and its related ports and passages need to be plugged as well. One of the EGR passages goes up through the intake manifold and connects to a passage in the head that goes directly to an exhaust port and the other passage goes into the intake just below the carburetor inlet.

Electrically this propane conversion did not require changing anything other than the removal of all of the emissions and vacuum control wiring. After the 20+ control wires are removed I was left with two wires, one for the oil and temperature sensor and one for the temperature gage sensor. The only other remaining wires going to the engine are the ones for the alternator and ignition which are in their own harnesses so they do not need to be changed.

The vaporizer unit for the propane system only needs one 12 volt power lead from the ignition for it to work. Being the 1987 Mazda B2600’s have an electric fuel pump control system I just re routed its output line from the pump to the vaporizer fuel solenoid which was an easy one wire cut and splice job. The vaporizer does need to be part of the coolant circulation so I plumbed it into one port near the engines thermostat (a now unused emissions sensor port also where one of the intake coolant passages fed from) and returned it to the return line where the intake coolant return originally went. By doing this it keeps the engines coolant circulating as it needs to while also keeping the vaporizer heated at the same time.

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With all of that done then it’s just a matter of finding a good propane fuel tank that will fit on the truck. For me being the old fuel tank is no longer needed and the simplifying of the exhaust system left me with loads of underside room I am going to get a set of tanks that can fit underneath the truck and plumb their filler ports into the original gas cap location.

There are some other little things that also help on this type of conversion is that I have found to be worth the added cost and time as well. Bosch +4 spark plugs work very well with propane fuel and are well worth the added cost along with changing to a lower resistance sparkplug wires and a higher powered ignition system. Propane burns considerably leaner than gasoline plus with the much higher compression added ignition power is beneficial as well.

Power and performance wise the truck is very snappy now and the fuel mileage seems to be stable at around the mid to upper twenties! By figuring the fuel mileage as a cost per mile ratio comparison of propane Vs gasoline that works out to a cost per mile equivalent equal to having a pickup that would get around 45 - 55 MPG on gasoline!

Financially here is how it breaks down for the conversion.

Propane conversion system $180
Head milling $105
Engine gasket kit $68
Timing chain kit $89
Chilton manual $25
Bosch +4 sparkplugs $28
Misc parts & supplies $150
New exhaust system $180
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Total to date $ 825


As you can see I am using some old propane tanks for the test and tune until I get the tanks that will fit underneath.
Officially this truck is now TCMTEK2 and my new license plates should be here in a week or two. :D

Eventually I am going to remove the pickup box and set it up with a flatbed and my Bobcat welder generator and gas powered air compressor along with some tool boxes in order to make a service vehicle out of it. But for now it just a really fun and dirt cheap way to get around! :)


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Interesting! What are the laws and such regarding emmisions, testing, equipment, etc - in ND? It would seem that such a major conversion and removal of so many controls and such from the engine (even though they're no longer needed, since its not running on gas) would make an emmisions testing "nightmare"; does your state require you to do anything special, or get some kind of special "experimental" exemption or something? BTW - how is the mileage in 4WD?
 
In North Dakota we don't really care about emission compliance and I have never even heard of anyone being checked let alone ticketed here. As far as I know our DOT does not do any scheduled or random emissions testing on private vehicles and rarely on anything else for that matter. Its just not worth the pointless hassle for them here. :)

As far as I know a full propane conversion is exempt from emissions testing being it is already a clean burning fuel. Thats also why they use it on forklifts and industrial equipment that is ran in a closed indoor environments where people are like in warehouses, factories, stadiums, and many public facilities. Its only chemical combustion byproducts are water vapor and CO2.

I am not sure what my over all mileage will be. So far it took 148 miles just to use up the 7.5 gallons in the 30 pound cylinder and that was with a lot of idling and full throttle blasts up the county road while I was setting the system up band still that worked out to around 20 MPG as is. The 100# cylinder will likely take me a month or better to use up. :D
 
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In North Dakota we don't really care about emission compliance and I have never even heard of anyone being checked let alone ticketed here. As far as I know our DOT does not do any scheduled or random emissions testing on private vehicles and rarely on anything else for that matter. Its just not worth the pointless hassle for them here.

Ah - well that explains it; Arizona is seemingly becoming more like California every year in its emmisions testing. I have a 79 Bronco that I bought used from a guy who drove it down from Washington state; I had to put another $1000 into it for emmisions controls he had removed (first a bunch to a shop, then a little more on my own to install a smog pump and some vacuum hoses the shop missed - needless to say, I don't go back to that shop), because WA didn't do any testing at the time.

As far as I know a full propane conversion is exempt from emissions testing being it is already a clean burning fuel. Thats also why they use it on forklifts and industrial equipment that is ran in a closed indoor environments where people are like in warehouses, factories, stadiums, and many public facilities. Its only chemical combustion byproducts are water vapor and CO2.

I know that propane is pretty clean burning; seeing the propane engine powered floor buffers and cleaners in a walmart here running indoors pretty much settles that. I was just curious though, because here in AZ, they would definitely look at you funny (and maybe require you to go to main state testing facility) if you pulled that vehicle of yours into one of the regular testing stations here. Heck, half the time they would give me a funny look for my Bronco, especially when it would pass! Hasn't passed in a while though; I'm hoping that this winter I can get someone to work on it to get it to (plus some other issues needing fixing) - I don't really have the time, skills, or equipment to take care of it myself (I wish there was a injection kit available for the engine, but I have to find one).

I am not sure what my over all mileage will be. So far it took 148 miles just to use up the 7.5 gallons in the 30 pound cylinder and that was with a lot of idling and full throttle blasts up the county road while I was setting the system up band still that worked out to around 20 MPG as is. The 100# cylinder will likely take me a month or better to use up. :D

That still seems like a good deal; I've just been curious how much 4WD costs in fuel mileage, especially on conversions. I really want to see a high-MPG hybrid or electric 4WD vehicle, but I'll probably have to wait for that. My Bronco is anything but fuel efficient; if I get 10 MPG, its a "good day" (needless to say, it isn't my "daily driver" - I bought it for off-road use, but the damn issue with passing emmisions - which I have to do every year when it is registered - has made it a bear; hopefully I can get things fixed as mentioned)...
 
Very nice TCM! Impressive set of skills you have there. I'm still mulling over the natural gas conversion advice you gave me last year.... one of these days! hahaha.
 
Very nice TCM! Impressive set of skills you have there. I'm still mulling over the natural gas conversion advice you gave me last year.... one of these days! hahaha.

If you where to go for it would recommend doing a similar conversion approach of finding a dirt cheap beater truck with reasonable highway miles then do basically what I did using a propane carburetor and vaporizer system designed for a forklift of similar engine displacement. Being propane works with an all mechanical fuel system it wouldn't matter if the vehicle was originally fuel injected or not being that all gets disconnected or removed entirely. ;)

For anyone with fair mechanical skills and online searching abilities I would say this conversion would not be too overly difficult and could turn out to be rather fun and educational as well. :)
 
Great writeup. How does the horsepower compare?
 
I took it to town yesterday when we had 35+ MPH winds and it still manged to do 70 MPH into a direct headwind while in high gear! :D
It probably could have easily done a 100+ MPH on the way home though. :eek:

My V10 powered 99 Ford F250 super duty wont stay in overdrive in the same winds so I consider it to have surprisingly good power for a little 2.6l inline four. :)

The secret to getting good power and fuel efficiency out of propane is high compression and good intake and exhaust flow. Stock gas engines have to low of compression for peak power or efficiency which is why propane conversions get a bad rep. Propane is not gasoline and requires different engine setup to get it real power and efficiency out of it.

It also responds very favorably to high performance engine setups being it has a very high octane equivalent (110+) with smooth clean and fast combustion characteristics! :)
 
mazda propane conversion

hi i was wondering if there's any place to take a look of this truck i like to do the same on my 1988 Mazda b2600
 
There are pictures in the writeup. What more do you need to see?

The actual pickup is in North Dakota so it could be a fair distance to travel to see it in person!
I took it over to sugar beet harvest pre haul this year so I could get a long distance driving testing in. So far it has averaged around 22 MPG running at 70+ MPH with a strong head wind for the 210 mile trip over and is slightly better than that in the local driving!:D

Power wise with the high compression head work and complete removal of the emissions systems its quite snappy and fun to drive! :)

I would estimate it to be equal to if not slightly higher than it stock set up now or at least it does just as well in the 0 - 65 MPH acceleration time and distance tests as my 99 Ford F 250 super duty does with a the chipped out Triton V10! :)
 
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