Manufactures Sales Tricks for Buyers.

[gary350]

I see batteries now days are rated in mAh instead of amps. I guess most people don't know what amps or milliamps are so manufactures take advantage of that to trick buyers into buying what they think is a better product.

OK, so a manufacturer markets their battery as 4000mAh instead of 4Ah that sounds bigger and better so people will buy it. WOW!!!

Another manufacture markets their battery as 4400mAh........WOW that sound even better so now people will buy this.

A different company markets batteries as 5000mAh, 6000mAh and 8000mAh...........WOW that sound great buyers all want this now. LOL

I am suprised someone has not come up with a 8000000uAh battery or 8000000000000pAh battery these should sell GREAT.

There needs to be a law that requires manufactures to print information on each battery explaining what amps, mA and uA is so buyer will know 8A = 8000mA = 8000000uA = 8000000000nA = 8000000000000pA.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Smaller batteries have always been rated in mAh -there's too little resolution in Ah for small capacities, 1600mAh is a common value, as it 2200mAh.

Obvious reasons for it being that way, and nothing to do with your delusions

 

[audioguru]

mAh ratings are not real anyway. Energizer rates their AA alkaline cell when its voltage has dropped to 0.8V. Their 9V alkaline battery is rated when its voltage has dropped to only 4.8V. Do people use dead batteries?

 

[transistor495]

When I analyzed the capacity of my old VIPOW 2700mah batteries recently using my new Maha WizadOne c9000 charger/analyzer, I got only 1200mah!

My colored eneloop tones shows exactly 1900-2000mah in the analyzer! Good one and these are marathon performers.

One thing you all might have noticed is old AA device compartments fails to insert higher capacity rechargeable batteries properly! My old radio require 3 AA cells but I can't insert the NiMh batteries in to that. Newer cells are bigger than the old zinc chloride batteries.

 

[Mr RB]

mAh ratings are not real anyway. Energizer rates their AA alkaline cell when its voltage has dropped to 0.8V. Their 9V alkaline battery is rated when its voltage has dropped to only 4.8V. Do people use dead batteries?

That's an excellent point. I measure AA and AAA battery voltage after they fail and I remove from devices, many devices like remote controls, clocks, etc will fail when the battery voltage is <1.2v. I wonder what the real mAh rating is within that range 1.5v->1.2v?

And also most cheap (Asian) battery labeling just has lies, outright lies, about the specs. Like if their competitor re-labels their batteries from 1100mAh to 1400mAh then the company just changes their label printing to be equal or better than their competitor. It's dog eat dog in that cheap end of the market.

 

[audioguru]

Many years ago my first calculator used an LED display and a 9V battery. It stopped working when the battery voltage dropped to less than 7.5V but then the battery still had plenty of power remaining. I added a 100uF capacitor parallel to the battery then the calculator worked until the battery was 4V and the display was so dim I could barely see it. When the battery is low the display dims each time the calculator is used.

My 3V Chaser project still works when the two AA alkaline cells drop to a total of only 1.8V (0.9V each). It uses a 74HC4017 guaranteed to work at 2V but most still work with a lower voltage.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

Many years ago my first calculator used an LED display and a 9V battery. It stopped working when the battery voltage dropped to less than 7.5V but then the battery still had plenty of power remaining. I added a 100uF capacitor parallel to the battery then the calculator worked until the battery was 4V and the display was so dim I could barely see it.

It's hard to believe the designer missed out such an essential component?.

I wonder if it was dropped during production, to save a little money?.

 

[audioguru]

It's hard to believe the designer missed out such an essential component?.

I wonder if it was dropped during production, to save a little money?.

The calculator was sold by RadioShack. They always sold and still sell cheap Chinese junk.

I still have the calculator and it still works perfectly.

I have another cheap calculator labelled, "dual power solar and battery". Its solar cell is a photo of a solar cell.

 

[georgetwo]

LoL this type of calculator is verymush available in my area, it is becoming normal. Here we cannt differentiate between real and fake products. There shuld be a regulatory body in charge of this mess. I have bought 3 fake nokia batteries from nokia chops in less than 3 months

 

[gary350]

Many years ago my first calculator used an LED display and a 9V battery. It stopped working when the battery voltage dropped to less than 7.5V but then the battery still had plenty of power remaining. I added a 100uF capacitor parallel to the battery then the calculator worked until the battery was 4V and the display was so dim I could barely see it. When the battery is low the display dims each time the calculator is used.

My 3V Chaser project still works when the two AA alkaline cells drop to a total of only 1.8V (0.9V each). It uses a 74HC4017 guaranteed to work at 2V but most still work with a lower voltage.

I still have my first calculator that I bought when I was in college, we were required to buy one for engineering class. It was $150 and all it does is add, substract, multiply and divide. It still works good as new.