That is only a half-wave rectifier, which is inefficient and produces undesirable DC current in the alternator. A full wave bridge circuit would be much better. A three-phase bridge rectifier is even better, if you have 3-phase voltage available from the magneto.
You don't need capacitor C1. The battery acts as a large capacitor.
That is only a half-wave rectifier, which is inefficient and produces undesirable DC current in the alternator. A full wave bridge circuit would be much better. A three-phase bridge rectifier is even better, if you have 3-phase voltage available from the magneto.
You don't need capacitor C1. The battery acts as a large capacitor.
It may be easier to just isolate the magneto leads and then run them to a common off the shelf charge regulator like what is on many small engines. Check with you local lawn and garden service shop or automotive store.
They are about the size of a deck of cards and have a three terminal connection. Onan, Kohler, B&S all use a similar design so just ask for one of those and compare the price.
They run around $25 - $40 and take a two line AC input from a magneto type alternator and convert it to a regulated 12 volts at up to around 20 amps if the magneto can supply that much.
It may be easier to just isolate the magneto leads and then run them to a common off the shelf charge regulator like what is on many small engines. Check with you local lawn and garden service shop or automotive store.
They are about the size of a deck of cards and have a three terminal connection. Onan, Kohler, B&S all use a similar design so just ask for one of those and compare the price.
They run around $25 - $40 and take a two line AC input from a magneto type alternator and convert it to a regulated 12 volts at up to around 20 amps if the magneto can supply that much.
I think that diagram share to you all is automatic OVERVOLTAGE..when HID off,relay will connect..when HID on,relay will disconnect then wire from magneto will connect to diod,C1 then going to (+) batery...I think can safe batery....is true??
These are old 14 volt 15 and 20 amp units. I pull them off of junk riding lawn mowers and other equipment at the scrap yard when I find them being they rarely ever burn out.
They use a simple two AC line input and a single positive output line with the case as the common ground. It cant get much smaller or simpler.
These are old 14 volt 15 and 20 amp units. I pull them off of junk riding lawn mowers and other equipment at the scrap yard when I find them being they rarely ever burn out.
They use a simple two AC line input and a single positive output line with the case as the common ground. It cant get much smaller or simpler.
These are old 14 volt 15 and 20 amp units. I pull them off of junk riding lawn mowers and other equipment at the scrap yard when I find them being they rarely ever burn out.
They use a simple two AC line input and a single positive output line with the case as the common ground. It cant get much smaller or simpler.
I have a Yamaha Rx 100 and has replaced the 2.5A battery with 5A and changed lighting system from ac to dc but the battery gets low within 15 to 20 min after full charge
My bike has a regulator cum rectifier with 3 pins
Can some one plz help me to charge the battery faster
I have not understood the diagram
I m using 12v 35/35w halogen bulb
Batteries are not rated in amps (A), they are rated in amp-hours (Ah).
A 5Ah battery is pretty small and can provide 0.25A for 20 hours or maybe 0.5A for 10 hours. It might provide 5A for about 15 minutes.
Your 35W light draws (35W/12V)= 2.92A if the battery is nearly dead at 12.0V or maybe 3.2A when the battery is fully charged at 12.6V.
Then one charge on the battery will light for about 20 minutes with the light dimming for the final 5 minutes.
The battery should have a rating about the max allowed charging current which determines how fast it can charge.