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Magnet Wire Winding

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graemeian

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I want to wind magnet wire on a bobbin. When I make the first layer, all is fine. When I am winding on top of the existing wire layer, I get a bump because I am changing the pitch when I change directions. I am using small 28 to 40 gauge wire. Is it possible to get consecutive smooth layers without paper?
 
Do your best don't get to hung up and focus.

I want to wind magnet wire on a bobbin. When I make the first layer, all is fine. When I am winding on top of the existing wire layer, I get a bump because I am changing the pitch when I change directions. I am using small 28 to 40 gauge wire. Is it possible to get consecutive smooth layers without paper?

I used to have to manufacture a small Transformer it's been awhile and I've lost some things. The one I did was ferrite about 3/4" ID. It was very hard to get a tight good looking wrap. Plus they wanted the coils to lay on black tape. When it was done we painted the hole thing in Plastic insulation.

Some things are just as they are and a tight rap is what your looking for. If you insulate the outside you'll never see it. You really just want a stable Q.

Edit: oops, I thought you were winding Toroids or Transformers.

Post undeleted as it made nonsense of the following post - moderator.
 
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I'm going to go with killivolt, why does it matter? How does it affect the circuit?
 
For my application. I am making specialty motor windings. I need to have matched pairs and not especially smooth aesthetic windings.
Today, I plan to make a rastering winding system using an encoder on the bobbin and a linear slide driven by a stepper motor. For example, if the the first pass takes 100 turns or a number of pulses from the encoder to make a 1 inch long layer. This will be my gauge. I will then program a PC to drive the linear slide following the bobbin encoder pulses to move an inch per 100 turns and then reverse and move another inch in the opposite direction. I will be turning the bobbin by hand. Without the hand turning, is this the way commercial winders work?
 
Commercial coil winders I have seen for open bobbins work like you describe. That is, the bobbin is rotated and the wire is moved back and forth to form the layers. Winders for toroids are different and far more interesting IMHO. John
 
I don't know about winding coils, but I'm sure that I read somewhere that winding like my attached picture would reduce inter-winding capacitance. (Remember that in practice the winding will be much longer than it will be thicker, probably.)
 

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Sorry Nigal.

Originally Posted by graemeian
I want to wind magnet wire on a bobbin. When I make the first layer, all is fine. When I am winding on top of the existing wire layer, I get a bump because I am changing the pitch when I change directions. I am using small 28 to 40 gauge wire. Is it possible to get consecutive smooth layers without paper?
I used to have to manufacture a small Transformer it's been awhile and I've lost some things. The one I did was ferrite about 3/4" ID. It was very hard to get a tight good looking wrap. Plus they wanted the coils to lay on black tape. When it was done we painted the hole thing in Plastic insulation.

Some things are just as they are and a tight rap is what your looking for. If you insulate the outside you'll never see it. You really just want a stable Q.

Edit: oops, I thought you were winding Toroids or Transformers.

Post undeleted as it made nonsense of the following post - moderator.



I can now see the problem about the : edit, no edit, Delete, no Delete, voting issue. In the FEEDBACK and COMMENTS section of the forum.

Perfect example..... kv ;)
 
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I don't know about winding coils, but I'm sure that I read somewhere that winding like my attached picture would reduce inter-winding capacitance.

I tried to make one like that by hand once. It is hard to do. Much easier just to get a segmented bobbin. John
 
However the moderator resolved it. We don't need the delay, you could have easilly deleted your post a year later and the moderator could have resolved it.
 
Magne wire winding

Hi greameian,

when you finish the first layer the second one will automatically come up and occupy aproximately 1/2 of its wire diameter in height. This is exactly the point where the follow-up windings should continue. The 2nd layer will then fill the gaps formed by the 1st one and so forth.

Don't force the windings together, just lead the wire to a position where it aligns automatically.

For clarity look at the picture.

Also compare the technique of level winding by slowly unwinding a role of soldering tin. No matter how many windings, the result should be without dips and bumps.

One bump messes up the entire look of a coil.

Boncuk
 

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What's the absolute maximum voltage per layer?

What's the breakdown voltage of the wire?

The voltage between this layer needs to be half the breakdown voltage.

If the voltage per layer is well under the breakdown voltage, say a factor of 8, then don't worry too much about neatness, providing the distribution of turns on the former is reaonably uniform.
 
I am fabricating my automated winding device. I am almost complete on the project. My winding speed should be about 2-6 Hz. The rastering speed will be calculated from the winding speed and the pitch. For example, if the bobbin length is 1 inch and it takes 70 turns, should my raster travel be 1 inch left and right per 70 turns or should each consecutive layer have a shortened raster distance?
 
Use a rastering according to the bobbin effective length. The moment when the follow-up layer of wire "towers" the lead-in will already move in the opposite direction.
 
Thank you Boncuk et.al. I completed my wire winder last week. It can operate in two modes. One method uses a simple automatic rastering method. I am using two stepper motors and a PC to generate the pulses. The winder makes some turns and the raster moves left to right. Since the raster step motor is so slow. I do not have to worry about acceleration. The other method uses a hotkey to manually reverse the direction when the wire "towers".
 
Attached Picture

I hope you can see the picture. (Winder.jpg)I used the attachment feature. I am using fishing line in the picture because it was what I had available. It is Sunday morning and I did not want to waste copper wire for this photo. You cannot see the clutched spool. The wing nut holds a black Delrin arm with a through hole with a white Delrin insert just over the spool. Inserts are made for nearly each wire size. The gold spider nut is attached to a linear slide which is driven by a stepper motor. To get my gauge or scale settings, I hand wind a full pass keeping track of the number of turns and measuring the width of the spool gap. I put these numbers into my VisualBasic program along with the number of layers needed. I have made four layer coils using large 22 awg wire and they look great. When I get in the high 30s awg sizes, I see where the wire winds over the wire below and I get the spiral "bump". The important part is that I can make two equivalent coils which was my aim.
 

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