Low voltage wiring vs high voltage wiring

[prhoads]

I have a motor on a table saw I purchased. It has an old electrical wire with a switch in the wire and I want to change the switch and wire which appears to have come from an electric blanket but when I opened the the housing on the motor I found it could be set up for low voltage or high voltage

1. What is the difference.

Low is

P1 - UNGR D LINE

P2, T8, T3 - Tape

T2, T5, T4 - Line

High is

P1 - UNGR D LINE

P2 - Tape

T8, T3, T2 - Tape

T5, T4 - Line

2. What do teh wrods "tape" and "line mean?

3. I am using in my garage standard 120 which do I want?

This one appears to be wired for high.

Three wires come out of the wire
A green that is attached to screw
A black that is attached to a breaker/reset switch
A white that is connected to Three wires

4. Where would be the best place to install a switch, in the wire to or somewher else?

4. What kind of switch should I use.

I know this is a lot of questions but any help anyoen could give would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Inquisitive]

Prhoads,

Firstly, what is the motors voltage ranges? Manufacture name of motor, model number?

 

[prhoads]

115/230
Dayton
LR22132

 

[unclejed613]

black is hot, white is neutral, green is ground. the switch should be on the hot side. the green wire from the cord should be twice as long as the white or black (whichever is longer) coming out of the cord. keep the motor wired for low voltage (120), use 16 or 14ga stranded (not solid) wire and keep the same color scheme (lack for hot, white for neutral).

 

[Inquisitive]

This was answered in this thread.

https://www.electro-tech-online.com...iagram-for-low-high-voltage-how-to-wire.9105/

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

Low is

P1 - UNGR D LINE

P2, T8, T3 - Tape

T2, T5, T4 - Line

I'll take this one. A motor can be rated 120/240, so the 120 is considered LOW (speed)
LINE = is one of the power terminals.
UNGR D LINE = means the Ungrounded terminal, so for 115 V, this side connects to black or HOT.
TAPE = Means Taped together or just taped so it doesn't touch anything. Usually it means connect with a wirenut.

Switches go in the HOT lead or the Ungrounded conductor. In the case of 240, there are two hots, so both have to be switched.

Switches have to be HP rated. You won't find the switches in the hardware store.

 

[prhoads]

I thank you for the help you have given me but I still have a problem. The motor I am dealing with does nto appear to be wired the way you have described but it may be the same thing?

T4, T5, T2 are attached to the white wire

T3 and T8 are wound together and attached by a single wire to a reset button

T 1 is also attached to the reset button seperately

The black wire is attached to the same reset button also seperately


I have no P1 or P2 as far as I can see

 

[Inquisitive]

Dayton is now part of Grainger Industrial Supply. You might be able to obtain information from "Product support" at this link. Its worth a shot!

https://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/feedback.shtml

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

P1 and P2 are the wires for a thermal overload which is very nice to have. See this PDF for clarification: https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2012/07/Fuji_wiring_diagram-1.pdf

P1 is equivalent to T1 if P1 isn't used.

Your "Reset Button" is the thermal, so P1 and P2 are the ends of that in no particular order since they aren't labeled.

T4, T5, T2 are attached to the white wire Line Neutral

T3 and T8 are wound together and attached by a single wire to a reset button P2

T 1 is also attached to the reset button seperately P1

The black wire is attached to the same reset button also seperately Line HOT

Somehow there are thee wires on the reset button, I expect only two. Are two together?