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Looking at some PCB making equipment.

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boscoe

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I have tried making PCBs with toner and and iron, and for me it just wasn't good enough. I want to be ableto make PCBs up to about 250mm square, I want some proper equipment but I'm on a very tight budget about £200. I want a UV exposure unit and probably and etch bath. I only do single side analogue stuff so I don't need anything mega.

I saw **broken link removed** only ebay it does look too cheap but it has a years warranty but I don't want to be sending it back to Japan every 5 mins.

Is this possible on my budget?
 
Do what you want but if you did not use a laminator you did not give toner transfer an honest try. While possible not many people get good results with an iron, the ones that do are process gods in my book.

Both processes have similar problems. With photo resist you need to calibrate your exposure time. With toner you have to get the toner to the right temp which is a lot easier to do with a laminator.

Going dirt cheap can be done on either but you have to dial in the process.
 
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Looks like a real nice one to me.

3v0,

What do you mean when you say laminator?
 
Looks like a real nice one to me.

3v0,

What do you mean when you say laminator?

I will probably be able to answer that question on behalf of 3v0.

A laminator is a device melting plastic (also used to make ID-cards, diver's licenses, important documents etc.) to make them durable.

It consists mainly of two drums with one heated to the desired temperature and press the plastic sheets over the paper (carton).

When using a laminator to make PCBs you melt and press the toner (consisting of plastic particles) from the paper (thin catalog paper does the job already) onto the carrier (PCB).

The toner being transferred to the copper clad is etchant resistant and allows to etch the PBC the way you want, removing excessive copper which is not needed.

Transferring toner with an iron burries several problems: The iron doesn't have the same temperature over its entire sole and you probably don't use the necessary pressure to get the toner onto the copper clad as required, resulting in garbage.

The laminator applies equal heat and pressure throughout the entire board.

Not to forget: Best yet is a Gerber photo plotter, available in print shops where they produce advertising material. Take along your PCB design, your Eagle install file and and a six-pack of beer. They will be pleased to help you out. (Done it that way in Germany.)

Greetings

Boncuk
 
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Ironing works fine for boards smaller then 90mm across. Large boards have issues with the iron not being perfetcly flat etc. I have no probs with 10 mil traces. smd pads and iron on with magazine paper. Double sided as well, for the through hole part registrations.
 
I've never tried the magazine paper, but I guess I will.
Also never paid much attention to laminators. Does it have to be a fancy sheet laminator or will the $100 pouch type work? Can't tell from the pictures if it is a straight shot thru them.
 
The problem is with the laminators is that soe modifications need to usually be done. One is to increase the material thickness. Another is to increase the temperature. Some manufacturer's toners have too high of a melt temperature.

The temperaure change is usually an easy one. Might be a resistor change. The problem that happens is that some parts of the laminator won't handle the higher temps so that part may have to be remade.
 
I bought a $25 laminator from the office supplies store, it had electronic temp control that had a couple of LEDs on the front panel so I knew it was electronic when I bought it.

After opening it up I found it was as easy as turning the little trimpot on the PCB to increase the temp! :) Now it works like a charm.
 
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