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LED Flashing Circuit Y-Diagram Help

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Phinehas_Rex

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Hey all! I'm new to the forum and new to electronics. And, I need a little help.

I have an LED flasher circuit kit that I purchased online in the hopes that I could rewire it to do what I want. Alas, I don't have the knowledge! What I want is to design a Y-circuit of 9 LEDs total; 3 in each branch. I want them to chase sequentially to the center in this fashion: outer, middle, inner, and repeat. I didn't want to use a timer because I thought this might be easier and more compact for what I need. Can anyone decipher this scan and give me a clue? Thanks!
 

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Thanks for the correction. I found out why it posted it that way. Here's the better version of the schematic:
 

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I'm doing essentially the same thing except on a larger scale. If you send me your email I'll send you the schematic for my project. It uses a timer though so I'm not sure if you'll be interested. What's this for? Making a flux capacitor?
 
Ha! Well, since this is the kind of place where you can "geek out" and it's well received, yes I am. I'm making a dashboard version of the Flux Capacitor from Back to the Future. I waltzed into Lowe's and got most of what I needed. I'm using a small gray junction box for the case. Anyway, I'd be willing to see the timer circuit, too, but I really would like to see this circuit modified to what I need. I think it can be done and not use up too much space in that junction box.
 
Hey all! I'm new to the forum and new to electronics. And, I need a little help.

I have an LED flasher circuit kit that I purchased online in the hopes that I could rewire it to do what I want. Alas, I don't have the knowledge! What I want is to design a Y-circuit of 9 LEDs total; 3 in each branch. I want them to chase sequentially to the center in this fashion: outer, middle, inner, and repeat. I didn't want to use a timer because I thought this might be easier and more compact for what I need. Can anyone decipher this scan and give me a clue? Thanks!

hi,
The circuit you have posted could be extended to 9 LED's firing sequentially, but the LED's would always 'run on' in the same direction,
also if you built three,one for each line of the 'Y' you wouldnt be able to synchronise them.

What I would consider if you have three lines in your 'Y' pattern, then drive the inner one of each line, then the next, until the line is fully lit and then extingush the outer ones working back the centre of the 'Y'

Is the what you have in mind.?

EDIT: added a diagram
 

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Image of the chase

"Forgive the crudity of this model...it's not entirely to scale."

I think I see where you are going, but remember, I'm a novice slowly getting back into electronics. I'm trying to remember the basics. I have some books coming in the mail, but in the meantime I'm relying on you all.

Here's a quick sketch I did of what I want. See if this helps:
 

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"Forgive the crudity of this model...it's not entirely to scale."

I think I see where you are going, but remember, I'm a novice slowly getting back into electronics. I'm trying to remember the basics. I have some books coming in the mail, but in the meantime I'm relying on you all.

Here's a quick sketch I did of what I want. See if this helps:

hi,
I follow that OK.:)

The grouping of the 3 bars/lines I posted still applies.
Doing that way will keep the bar LED's in sync...

Do have any components, ic's etc on the bench or do you have access to the usual ic's.?
 
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Well, basically all I have right now are the parts provided in the kit you see in the schematic. I have a few other kits I ordered just in case I could jury rig those as well. I have a 10 LED chaser kit that came with a potentiometer or two. I figured if I gathered enough kits together I could farm out the parts to do what I wanted. I may have an IC...I think. Bear with me. Does that help?
 
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That is precisely what it is, my friend. I'm building a dashboard model. Whereas the real replica would cost upwards of $300 and couldn't be mounted in my SUV anywhere, I have scaled it down and it's cost me much less considering it is just for funsies. The dashboard model is made from a circuit junction box I bought at Lowes. I've had to scale everything else down and fabricate a few items. I am still working on putting the LEDs inside the sheet of plexiglass I have. I've been viewing that Rook's tutorial homepage on the Flux Capacitor. "It's what makes time travel possible!"
 

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That is precisely what it is, my friend. I'm building a dashboard model. Whereas the real replica would cost upwards of $300 and couldn't be mounted in my SUV anywhere, I have scaled it down and it's cost me much less considering it is just for funsies. The dashboard model is made from a circuit junction box I bought at Lowes. I've had to scale everything else down and fabricate a few items. I am still working on putting the LEDs inside the sheet of plexiglass I have. I've been viewing that Rook's tutorial homepage on the Flux Capacitor. "It's what makes time travel possible!"

hi,
The LED pattern in Bill's picture is not the same as your diagram.

You are showing only one LED lit at anyone time in the bars.
 
That's true. The picture shown does have all of them lit at the same time. But, if memory serves me correctly, that image is shown like that so you can see all of them in arrangement. The tutorial and the true replica will flash sequentially as I have shown. That's true to the movie model as well. The only time they appear on at the same time in the movie is when the car hits 88mph and everything is charged to go through time.

Make no mistake: my intention is for the sequential flashing as I have shown.
 
That's true. The picture shown does have all of them lit at the same time. But, if memory serves me correctly, that image is shown like that so you can see all of them in arrangement. The tutorial and the true replica will flash sequentially as I have shown. That's true to the movie model as well. The only time they appear on at the same time in the movie is when the car hits 88mph and everything is charged to go through time.

Make no mistake: my intention is for the sequential flashing as I have shown.

OK, thats fixed. Best to be sure, it does make a difference.

Check with your supplier , see if you can get 4035 or 40195 shift registers, also 4093 gates.

or 4017's
 
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I know that would be a professional way to do it, but I'm looking for the quick and dirty fix! Is it possible (remember, I'm a newbie) to rewire the schematic I included to do what I want with the parts provided? Let me know what you think!
 
Quick and dirty OK.

Make 3 of those circuits, connect them is series and replace the one LED in each transistor with 3 LED's.

BTW you will have to invert the LED drive signals.
One way would be, by using a additional transistor with every timing transistor.
 
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I think I see that. Any way you could draw that out?

hi,
I have drawn the basic circuit, untested.!

I would suggest you just make a 3 transistor pair ring and try it.
It may run slower than you are expecting, if so you could reduce the 10K to 4K7 or the 100uF to 47uF in order to make it run faster.

Calculate a value for Rs, allowing for the voltage drop across 3 LED's [whatever colour you are using] say a current of 15mA to 20mA.

I expect you are going to run it from the 12V car battery.???
if YES, dont forget a series fuse is required.

Do you follow the 'Y' configuration of the LED's.?
 

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Take a look at this:
**broken link removed**
It might help you.
 
Eric-

It looks like your schematic may help. Remember, I am still a newbie and I'll run it by some brains here. But, I think it looks very helpful! I plan on running it off of a 9 volt battery within the casing and powered on/off by an illuminated rocker switch. Sound good?

Thanks for the DIY Flux Capacitor link. I was looking at that yesterday.
 
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